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jtallen83

Proper Lube for a Barrel Nut?

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Can I use the Permatex® Nickel Anti-Seize Lubricant I have been using on my KX3 for the barrel nut or do I need some of that magical AeroShell 33 stuff?

 

http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/lubricants/specialty-lubricants-anti-seize/permatex--nickel-anti-seize-lubricant-detail

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I used some Anti-sleeze on all of mine. Havent had any troubles. I use automotive kind. what ever I had in the shop.

Edited by MONTANA308

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I used some Anti-sleeze on all of mine. Havent had any troubles. I use automotive kind. what ever I had in the shop.

Right. Whatever I find in the bottom of the toolbox! Usually missing a top and making a mess.

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Can I use the Permatex® Nickel Anti-Seize Lubricant I have been using on my KX3 for the barrel nut or do I need some of that magical AeroShell 33 stuff?

 

http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/lubricants/specialty-lubricants-anti-seize/permatex--nickel-anti-seize-lubricant-detail

The MSDS says it contains up to 30% graphite. Not ideal for use between aluminum and steel.

Ideally you'll want to use some molybdenum fortified grease. Aeroshell 33ms is the popular one, I use Valvoline VV632.

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I bought the Aeroshell 33 off of Amazon.  Got here in about 4 days with the cheapest shipping.  I'll be using it as soon as my Spike's flash suppressor arrives.

 

From what I researched, any graphite AT ALL is a No-No with the mating of steel to aluminum alloy.

 

Better safe than sorry.

Edited by GRA

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The MSDS says it contains up to 30% graphite. Not ideal for use between aluminum and steel.

From what I researched, any graphite AT ALL is a No-No with the mating of steel to aluminum alloy.

 

Wow, I have no idea how engine builders assemble engines.  I have no idea why I've never, ever had a problem putting anti-seize on ARP cylinder studs when I install them in an aluminum engine block...

 

Anti-seize won't hurt an upper receiver or a barrel nut at all.  If you find definitive proof that it does, publish some "engine building secrets" books.  Make sure to point out to the established engine builders that only Aeroshell 33MS will work, and everything else is far inferior, and will fail.

Edited by 98Z5V

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Wow, I have no idea how engine builders assemble engines.  I have no idea why I've never, ever had a problem putting anti-seize on ARP cylinder studs when I install them in an aluminum engine block...

 

Anti-seize won't hurt an upper receiver or a barrel nut at all.  If you find definitive proof that it does, publish some "engine building secrets" books.  Make sure to point out to the established engine builders that only Aeroshell 33MS will work, and everything else is far inferior, and will fail.

Ok, I'll just let you keep on thinking that. Not like it isn't in our own tech docs on here or anything... ::)

science.jpg

Edited by FaRKle!

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Tell me what the production date of the doc that states that grease as "the standard."  As well as other "standards" in that doc.  After that, tell me what technical, scientific and material advances have been made beyond those standards, as of that production date... 

 

<munch>

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Ok, I'll just let you keep on thinking that. Not like it isn't in our own tech docs on here or anything... ::)

science.jpg

 

You're really gonna use GigaHertz, a frequency, when you're talking about grease?...   <lmao>  Tell me how that affects a barrel nut or an upper receiver...

 

Go ahead and get scientific on me...  Don't forget to answer the "technical advances" question I posed upon you before this post, though.  I'm curious to see what you say.

Edited by 98Z5V

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  Well I used to use the mil spec grease on the threads , the dark stuff that you used to get in the little containers in a cleaning kit for M1 rifles & I know it works because I pulled the Barrel from my Pre-ban Olympic Arms build recently , that I assembled in the late seventies & the nut came right off . I was changing to a Flat top Receiver , for a scope.

  I have been using Red & Tacky synthetic  grease for the last ten years or so & the Nuts, also have no problem coming off. I think its better to have something , than nothing at all . What ever works for you .

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Wow, I have no idea how engine builders assemble engines.  I have no idea why I've never, ever had a problem putting anti-seize on ARP cylinder studs when I install them in an aluminum engine block...

 

Anti-seize won't hurt an upper receiver or a barrel nut at all.  If you find definitive proof that it does, publish some "engine building secrets" books.  Make sure to point out to the established engine builders that only Aeroshell 33MS will work, and everything else is far inferior, and will fail.

 

EXACTLY    :) Wash

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I actually have a big tube of engine assembly lube that I've used on all my builds. Black messy goop. Molly based. Seems just fine. I'm pretty sure it's at the proper frequency.

Edited by blue109

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I've used a copper-based anti seize compound on all of my builds for the barrel nut threads. Made by Loctite, and picked up easily at any Grainger.

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What's the reasoning behind copper based opposed to Li-Moly, if you don't mind me asking?

 

 

blank.gifblank.gifblank.gifblank.gifblank.gifblank.gifblank.gifblank.gifblank.gif                          Copper Aluminide, CuAl2                                                             b126.gif     Copper Aluminide, CuAl2, is an intermetallic compound between the two elements. It is the thermodynamically stable precipitate formed when an alloy such as Al- 4wt% Cu is slowly cooled from the single solid solution a-phase to room temperature. The compound can exist over a small range of compositions about stoichiometric and exhibits congruent melting at about 600 C. 

In overaged precipitation hardened Cu-Al alloys, CuAl2 is the precipitate that provides the material hardening. The precipitate has incoherent boundaries with the (Al) matrix and consequently the interaction with dislocations is reduced compared to non-equilibrium precipitates with coherent boundaries with the matrix.

                             

       

   There ya go  Chase ......Its the Matrix ....never forget the Matrix...it takes the heat of a mag dump too     <lmao>   Wash                                                    

Edited by washguy

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  Well , I pulled that Barrel nut off that had MilSpec grease on it for over twenty years & it was still greasy & that rifle had plenty of mag dumps over its time . When you have over twenty years on any thing else you put on there , you can tell us about it . <dontknow>  <lmao>

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You know what, just for y'all, I'mma get a tube and reassemble a couple AR's with both. I'll let you know how it looks in 20 years <lmao>

Thanks for the explanation, Wash, that actually makes sense. I might have to try some out now.

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What's the reasoning behind copper based opposed to Li-Moly, if you don't mind me asking?

 

 

blank.gifblank.gifblank.gifblank.gifblank.gifblank.gifblank.gifblank.gifblank.gif                          Copper Aluminide, CuAl2                                                             b126.gif     Copper Aluminide, CuAl2, is an intermetallic compound between the two elements. It is the thermodynamically stable precipitate formed when an alloy such as Al- 4wt% Cu is slowly cooled from the single solid solution a-phase to room temperature. The compound can exist over a small range of compositions about stoichiometric and exhibits congruent melting at about 600 C. 

In overaged precipitation hardened Cu-Al alloys, CuAl2 is the precipitate that provides the material hardening. The precipitate has incoherent boundaries with the (Al) matrix and consequently the interaction with dislocations is reduced compared to non-equilibrium precipitates with coherent boundaries with the matrix.

                             

       

   There ya go  Chase ......Its the Matrix ....never forget the Matrix...it takes the heat of a mag dump too     <lmao>   Wash

And here I thought that I just liked the color of the stuff. Turns out that I'm a fukin chemist. <laughs>

 

PS - Don't get it on your hands. The only solution that takes it off is TIME.

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 PS - Don't get it on your hands. The only solution that takes it off is TIME.

 

And HE knows!  According to him, once it on your hands, it's on your di...  Wait - what color did you tell me yours was, Ron?...  :eek:

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