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BIGBREW 308 BUILD


BIGBREW

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Forgot I have a MI heavy duty QD adapter on the PM400 I keep with me. Measures 1.135 inch so that would be a little thick for your purpose. They have another model that is smaller, might be worth checking out.

edit;

The smaller one must be the 1/2 inch that Shepp is referring to. Doesn't sound like either will get you the 5/8 inch you are looking for.

Edited by jtallen83
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I think having the buffer tube show a little is nice aesthetically, it's not a necessity. I would need a longer vented screw.  Post a product link if you can. Just about done.  I'll get some better pictures with more light. Still need a barrel. Leaning towards the 20, didn't realize how long the gun would be with a 24

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Sorry if I'm misunderstanding, but are you wanting to make the stock length longer?

That MCTAR-30 you posted is for a collapsible stock. won't work with a rifle receiver tube. If you are looking to space out a rifle tube DPMS and KAC  both sell extensions that come with the proper internal spacers and screws. The easiest thing to do will be to order the adjustable LOP shoulder pad made for that stock. that's actually the whole point of that stock... Adjustable LOP and cheek riser.

 

This is the DPMS spacer

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Edited by blue109
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https://www.gggaz.com/standard-and-scout-length-mounting-rails.html

 

http://www.precisionreflex.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=186634&CAT=4211

 

Heres a couple. I'm sure there are cheaper options but these are known high quality, and every link between your rifle and optic is a potential point for inaccuracies. Your rings will still work, but I'd recommend mocking up your scope at the new height to make sure you can still get a decent cheek weld. 

 

 

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42 minutes ago, survivalshop said:

  With a Riser , you will need different Rings , I can see those existing Rings will be too high . They look like Extra High Rings now , same height as I use , just different brand , That Scope has a very large Objective lens , what is it ?

They are extra high. I did find a 1/2 inch riser. It's a 50mm that my father in law gave me. I have no problem seeing through it now. I don't forsee another 1/2" being a problem. I was worried about this but didn't have the scope before I sent everything out for paint. I was getting the itch to put this thing together.  I have been doing my research and buying parts since last year. Just my luck something like this happens. 

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11 minutes ago, survivalshop said:

 1/2 " can give some issues with proper Cheek Weld , unless you have an adj. cheek riser  . you have to be comfortable & not searching around for a sight picture from shot to shot , but I'm sure you know that , just reminding you . Its also important if someone else is using the Rifle too.

Guess I'll grab a half inch riser. If I have an issue I can get the kit for my stock with the adjustable cheek riser. Still debating barrel too. So I guess I have a few odds and ends to work out.  Have to grab a bipod. 

All in all I think it turned out pretty good. 

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Bipod:

I know the consensus is kick the legs forward. Mine is strictly a bench shooter so leaning into it will just cause the legs to slide forward in the bench. I'm still waiting on a barrel but I feel like the gun is long enough as it is (barrel should far surpass the bipod). If you wanted to stand and shoot my handguard is 16.5" there should be enough room for a hand.  I honestly like them folded backward. 

 

Thoughts?

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  • 4 weeks later...
On ‎3‎/‎10‎/‎2017 at 10:08 PM, BIGBREW said:

 

Bipod:

I know the consensus is kick the legs forward. Mine is strictly a bench shooter so leaning into it will just cause the legs to slide forward in the bench. I'm still waiting on a barrel but I feel like the gun is long enough as it is (barrel should far surpass the bipod). If you wanted to stand and shoot my handguard is 16.5" there should be enough room for a hand.  I honestly like them folded backward. 

 

Thoughts?

 

In the stan I was a saw gunner, I learned to drive those bipod legs in the ground or against whatever I could to keep a more steady position to keep my shots from opening up. when they passed on my saw to someone else, I applied the same logic to my m4. with my harris bipod I mounted it backwards so when closed the legs pointed forward. with this setup I shot my m4 similar to my saw, digging in and leaning in, so that when shooting it was like shooting a pellet gun. And the legs did extend past my muzzle, but I saw no ill effect on accuracy when legs were forward.

The other benefit I found to having the legs pointed forward, though this shouldn't have much affect on a bench shooter, I used a vertical grip and found with the legs pointing towards me, they got in the way of the vertical grip. Having the legs pointed forward I was able to have much more freedom with the vertical grip and other attachments I put on my rifle.

To this day, any rifle I put a harris bipod on, I have the legs usually forward.

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1 hour ago, confused said:

Yeah, but if you have a tactical rifle case and you want to close the lid, it's legs back.

Not sure what you mean, a picture might help. Soft case, hard case, what kind of case and what kind of rifle?

If your case is adequately sized and configured correctly, there should be no issue.

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