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imschur

Anyone with modded Ruger 10/22's ?

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I've got one that I put in the Tapco T6 stock kit and slapped a little red dot on it - pretty good little shooter.  The only thing else that I've done to it are mod the bolt hold-open so it's an auto bolt release, put a Buffer Tech bolt stop in it, and polished the trigger engagement surfaces.  What kind of stuff are you looking for?

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Exactly what Im looking for. Just looking for examples to show visitors the cool stuff that can be done to these rifles. I often refer back to Brownells for pictures but they dont show the parts and pieces on a completed rifle.

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I'm pretty sure I've got pics of the modded stock piece into the auto bolt release, and the trigger polishing, so I'll dig them up.  I probably can't get the pics to you until Monday, though. 

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Here's what the little beast looks like - BSA RD-30 red dot on it, and the T6 furniture:

Ruger10-22-1.jpg

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My buddy and I put the Blackhawk! collapsable free float stocks on our Rugers and they work awesome. The after market Promag 25 rounders go in a little tight but other than that no complaints.

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I bought one for the wife in hopes of tricking it out while I built this 308...so it wouldn't look like I was the only one dumping money on guns.  Took her out to shoot....and she likes it just the way it is!  :-\  Man there's something wrong with that woman :o  ;D

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I bought one for the wife in hopes of tricking it out while I built this 308...so it wouldn't look like I was the only one dumping money on guns.  Took her out to shoot....and she likes it just the way it is!  :-\  Man there's something wrong with that woman :o ;D

She cant be too far off she's with you  or is that what you meant  lmao.gif

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I wonder about THAT sometimes too.... :-X

I was really hoping to trick the 10/22 out.....for her of course.

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Drew, it depends on what you're going for.  There's only one model that has a 16.25" barrel, and that's a youth model.  Grab that one if you're going for something to convert to a "tactical-type .22."  There's a target model that comes from the factory that has a Pic rail mounted - look for that if you're going for something to put a modern optic on. 

Tell the truth, Ruger has really stepped it up in what they offer now, straight from the factory, and there's literally dozens of models to choose from, between what they offer everywhere, and what they offer as "Dealer Specials" - direct factory mods that one specific dealer needs or wants for customers.  It's absolutely nuts, man - and it's not just the 10/22s...  It's all their firearms.

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Hey, anything you need to tell yourself to justify another gun....we'll back it.  <thumbsup>

Projects are like sneaking new guns in the backdoor. The little woman would freak If I bought 3 AR's in a year but building three from lowers doesnt seem to phase her.  <laughs>

For the longest time I was only buying blue guitars so she couldnt tell when I bought a new one.

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Did 98Z5V post his "year-so-far" photos here?  He's built 1 gun a month for the past 4 straight! :o

Back to 10/22's.  The basic stainless model with the plastic stock wasn't as stainless as we had hoped for.  I was planning to ditch all but the receiver on my wife's gun and wanted to start off with a raw metal one.  Unfortunately, the new stainless (inexpensive model) comes with the barrel and receiver coated gray.  So now when we do get around to the build, we'll have to strip it.  I think they have a couple models out there that will come without coating on the receiver, but the price gets a little higher.  Sweet little rifles, you just can't go wrong no matter what you do with it.  Seems like prices on parts have come down some in the past year or so as well (at least from what I remember looking at last year).

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I did a 10/22 a couple of years ago.  It is a standard carbine;  finished version looks almost like a fresh-out-of-the-box gun.

  Took the thing completely apart and used Antique Walnut Oil-base Polyurethane Varnish (left from another project,  perfect match) on all bare wood and a lot on the fore end.  Careful to keep the checkering sharp.  Two coats with clear satin-finish oil-base Polyurethane everywhere.  I get in a hurry and tend to be a little sloppy;  very little sanding but rubbed a lot with paper towel so there are no runs or lumps or bumps or points.  The varnish took a couple of weeks to fully cure.  I was 'done' in 3 or 4 days.

Wal-Mart bubble pak Bushnell 4X big-rifle scope.  I use plastic after-market mags for range shooting.  Extended mag release,  aftermarket bolt hold-back a lot better than the one from the factory,  barrel holder block or wedge with rounded corners,  poly bolt stop. 

The poly bolt-stop makes the gun a lot quieter.  A lot of the noise I hear when someone else is firing one at the range is the "Clack" of the bolt hitting the steel stop.  The poly stop has to help reduce shock to the bolt,  bolt components, receiver.  The little poly cylinder did not want to slip into place.  It would go through the hole on one side but not the other.  I used a flat file to chamfer it.  Held the poly cylinder at a 45 degree angle and rotated it against the file teeth.  The finished chamfer is a gray line in the rim of the flat end that probably measures 0.05 MM.  Just a barely visible gray line,  but the stop slips into place like a dream.  If the stop is turned around so the other end has to fit in the hole,  then things are back to square one.

There was a lot of internet discussion about the trigger.  I took the trigger module apart and there are two buttons on the outside of the inner assembly.  The shim kit had two sets in two thicknesses.  i put the thicker shim behind the button (B-43) on each side.  That was the way they fit but was not what the instructions said.  Putting the assembly pin (B-19) back was a trip.  It was not at all cooperative in going back into its seat in spite of whatever tricks I used.  But finally it did.  When the whole thing was put together again,  I used the "oversize" pins (B-5) to assemble the complete trigger module to the receiver.  "Oversize" is not what I was prepared to deal with.  My experience says that "oversize" means a fight to the death with a heavy mallet,  a properly sized pin punch and high quality support fixtures.  The factory pins would almost fall out and certainly needed being trapped by the stock to stay in place during firing.  The "oversize" pins were just snug.  Between the oversize pins and the shims the trigger is good as far as I am concerned. 

I have reason to think that Ruger is building new production with parts more like those favored in aftermarket upgrading.  I put a lot of aftermarket parts in the bolt that were supposed to be so much better but that were identical to the OEM parts.  Be sure you know if you really need to replace a given item before buying it.

I used a kit of stick-on pads to bed the action and barrel.  All that did well.  Putting the barrel band back on needed the band squeezed on the sides so the screw holes at the bottom would be aligned and straight.  This is instead of trying to push the barrel and band 'down.'

I used a nonskid butt pad.  It was a flat rectangle of plastic with ribbed rubber on top,  two screw holes properly spaced to match the original holes in the wood stock.  I used a scribe to mark cut lines on the plastic and a file for final shaping.  I do not have power tools (other than a drill motor and a Dremel set) and most of this is done very freehand.  To fill the space under the pad I used a tiny bit of packing foam to create a  block to fill most of the opening and then shreds of fiberglass cloth and black Silicone Seal on top.  This Silicone Seal and glass was also used to fill the space on top where the brass pad wraps around.  Hmmmn. . .  Not good.  The Silicone Seal is self adhesive and shrinks when curing.  Once cured,  nothing will stick to it including more Silicone Seal.  If you try it,  mask the wood with Saran Wrap.  Saran Wrap will peel off when the Silicone material has cured for a couple of days.  Other generic films may or may not be removeable.  The Silicone Seal is too thin and cannot be squeezed or shaped.  It can be cut with a razor,  X-acto blade or scissors when it has cured.  If necessary,  the Silicone Seal can supposedly be removed with mineral spirits;  I think there is a risk of that solvent attacking the plastic and/or the rubber.  Something different is needed for the filler under the pad.  FUNCTIONALLY the pad is fine.  The butt of the gun does not move around at all,  unlike my experience with the brass OEM plate.  I would like to be able to buy a properly shaped and fitted non-slip  pad,  however.

Best group:  nominal one inch at 50 yards with "Winchester Super X copper plated Super Speed RN  1300 FPS [all copyrighted nomenclature & brands]."  Everything else gives me a nominal 2 to 2 1/4 inch group at that distance.  Last week I did this twice,  once in the morning with a 5-15 MPH 90 degree cross wind and again last thing in the evening with a light wind directly behind me.  There are always two flyers,  I would guess the first two warm-up shots?

If all goes well and my latest software works,  I will post photos of the guns relevant to this site and of the targets.  No promises.

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Did 98Z5V post his "year-so-far" photos here?  He's built 1 gun a month for the past 4 straight! :o

My "Year to Date" pics are pretty stupid.  I'll try to start a new thread in the Black Rifles section about it.  It's nothing more than a sickness, affliction, addiction, abduction, anomoly, bewilderment, etc.  It's not even funny...  <dontknow> :o

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My "Year to Date" pics are pretty stupid.  I'll try to start a new thread in the Black Rifles section about it.  It's nothing more than a sickness, affliction, addiction, abduction, anomoly, bewilderment, etc.  It's not even funny...  <dontknow> :o

I know what it IS though..............it's EXPENSIVE  <laughs>

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