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Any Toyota mechanics on board?


imschur
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When you go by Autozone,  if you have not already done so,  take a pencil and paper.  The readout will be a bunch of numbers.  Crosscheck the numbers against the repair manual list.  Or post the numbers and we will try to give you a best guess.  One of the main things that shows up is a loose gas tank cap.  The numbers for that are many and the diagnosis is usually very vague.  Be sure the tank cap is tight,  reset the computer,  see if it comes back.  Sometimes the guy at Autozone will reset the computer for you.  There are laws/rules about him pressing that button in some places.  Please tell us what you got out of all this anyway?  I have had a Camry since 1997;  just bought my third one.  The 2ND one broke its timing belt;  the dealership found a short laundry list of things that needed repair and the cost was about equal to the value of the car.  I found a buyer who took the 2000 Camry off my hands 'as is' with the result that I came out even as an equivalent to a passable trade and am now making payments on my third (a 2011) Camry.  I am always interested in how maintenance and repair go on any and all Toyotas.

My daughter's 2003 Corolla developed a light and a code for the oxygen sensor.  She was trying to decide how to collect enough money and time to get it fixed;  several weeks went by.  Then the light went out by itself and a month later the car passed state inspection.  I can only guess that it was dirt or oil on the sensor that burned off.  ???

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I've got two different OBD II code scanners - I can send you one to tackle this job on your own.  It'll retrieve the code, you can search the code online, and then use the scanner to clear the CEL, and turn that bastard off.  I can talk you through any repairs, too.

Depending on what pops up as a code, it might lead to something else causing it.  Example, leaking intake manifold gasket will cause a P030X code, indicating a specific cylinder misfire.  It won't necessarily be a bad plug, or something with the ignition system causing that misfire, and you gotta backtrack to find out what's going on.  Most things are easy, but some are a huge pain in the ass.  <dontknow>

Let me know, and I'll get the scanner in the mail to you. 

You can grab the specific code(s) here, once you retrieve them:

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/

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Autozone will give you a printout of the codes and parts that would cause them....had them check my Honda few weeks ago...turned out they didn't sell the sensor I needed.. gave me the printout and recommended couple other places to check before the last resort....going back to the stealership .. :P

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Very glad it wasn't serious!!  If you disconnect the battery to clear the codes,  and if you haven't already,  oil the terminals and exposed metal and wires with either a few drops of full synthetic motor oil or use moisture displacing gun oil to stop or slow corrosion.  Keep in mind that the white powdery corrosion is lead salts and is THE most toxic form of lead.

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  • 2 weeks later...

If you unplug the battery or clear the codes with a scantool you will set a po 1000 code(this code does not set a MIL) in the PCM and until the vehicle itself runs all of the IM monitors you will not pass an emission test.This process sometimes takes up to three days.Most of the problems with Toyota seem to be with the O2 or the AF ratio sensors and the EVAP system leaks.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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