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Albroswift

Aero Precision M5

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I was talking to the seemingly knowledgeable guy behind the counter when I was getting the Aero Gen 2 X15 lower  and he said the Aero M5 I was also looking at was non spec (non DPMS Spec.) 

Said he tried to mate it up with a M&P 308 Upper and no bueno. 

normally I would have started arguing with him whether I knew what I was talking about or not, but it's Friday,  cold beer at home, so I took my purchase and left. 

So is the Aero M5 non DPMS or is the Smith  non DPMS? 

 

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1 hour ago, Albroswift said:

 

So is the Aero M5 non DPMS or is the Smith  non DPMS? 

 

That one, right there in red, brother...   :thumbup::laffs:

If the M&P 308 upper didn't mate to it, it's because there something "non-DPMS" on that M&P gun, not the other way around... 

I had the same issue with a PSA PA-10 upper - couldn't get it to lock on to several different Aero M5 lowers.  I had to strip the upper down, rebuild everything (guts) into an M5 upper, just to test fire the components and mods made.

Edited by 98Z5V

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Yeah my Aero M5 build is LR-308 DPMS profile, like other's have stated the other upper's where not any profile but theirs, M&P, PSA etc. I got the set the M5 lower & upper, with Aero's M5 lower parts kit with their M5 buffer tube kit, with spring & 2.5" 3.8oz buffer ( I think ).

20190619_104440.jpg

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From Brownells website:

"The Aero Precsion M5 308 Lower Receiver allows you to build a custom big-bore AR from the ground up.  Mil-spec dimensions and coating ensure the highest quality and correct component interface.  Receiver fits DPMS pattern components, including magazines and upper receivers.  Machined from 7075-T6 aluminum, and finished with a matte black hard-coat anodized Mil 8625 Type 3 Class 2 finish.  Rear takedown pin detent hole threaded 4-40 to allow for a set screw to retain the takedown pin.  Bolt catch is threaded for a screw pin, so that no roll pin is needed.  Integrated trigger guard and selector markings that function with 45, 60 or 90 degree safety selectors.  Accepts Battle Arms Development short throw safety selectors (100-009-866), but also functions with standard safeties."

BTW - These M5 Lowers were on sale over the 4th of July for $99.95   Brownells  

I'm in the process of building one of these M5 Lowers and like the 4-40 threaded parts for the bolt catch / release and the rear take down pin. Don't have to deal with 2 springs when installing the grip.

Edited by TeleStratMan

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8 hours ago, TeleStratMan said:

I'm in the process of building one of these M5 Lowers and like the 4-40 threaded parts for the bolt catch / release and the rear take down pin. Don't have to deal with 2 springs when installing the grip.

The threaded SS pin that is used for the bolt catch is not 4-40.  Only the takedown pin setup is 4-40. 

You can do this (for the takedown pin modification) on any AR lower receiver, small or large frame, doesn't matter if the takedown setup goes in from the back, or from the grip area (only on some .308ARs).  I use 6-32 as well for this, because 4-40 set screws aren't always easier to find in local hardware stores, but the 6-32 are everywhere.  There's a write-up that's about 10 years old on this mod, somewhere on this site. If you have the 4-40 set screws, you just run a tap in the hole that's already there.  If you can't find 4-40s, and you do the 6-32 setup, you need to run a hand-turned drill bit through it first, before you cut the 6-32 threads. On some (all AR15s), you have to cut down the spring length.  On .308ARs that go in from the bottom, you have to cut down the spring length.  On .308ARs that go in from the back (like an AR15), you need to come up with a spacer, and you DO NOT cut down the spring.

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4 hours ago, 98Z5V said:

The threaded SS pin that is used for the bolt catch is not 4-40.  Only the takedown pin setup is 4-40. 

You can do this (for the takedown pin modification) on any AR lower receiver, small or large frame, doesn't matter if the takedown setup goes in from the back, or from the grip area (only on some .308ARs).  I use 6-32 as well for this, because 4-40 set screws aren't always easier to find in local hardware stores, but the 6-32 are everywhere.  There's a write-up that's about 10 years old on this mod, somewhere on this site. If you have the 4-40 set screws, you just run a tap in the hole that's already there.  If you can't find 4-40s, and you do the 6-32 setup, you need to run a hand-turned drill bit through it first, before you cut the 6-32 threads. On some (all AR15s), you have to cut down the spring length.  On .308ARs that go in from the bottom, you have to cut down the spring length.  On .308ARs that go in from the back (like an AR15), you need to come up with a spacer, and you DO NOT cut down the spring.

The Aero Precision uses a 4-40 threaded hole in the grip area aft of the safety selector detent spring for the rear take down pin. The local ACE Hardware had 4-40 x 1/4' L set screws in their specialty hardware section. Saved the extra steps of drilling and tapping. Simply cut 1/4 " off of the spring [length of the screw] and set screw screwed right in and pin works great.Watched the CMMG 308 Lower build and the person had to deal with 2 springs when installing the grip.

Aero Precision makes it an easy installation for rear take down pin. No drilling- No Tapping  

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8 minutes ago, TeleStratMan said:

The Aero Precision uses a 4-40 threaded hole in the grip area aft of the safety selector detent spring for the rear take down pin. The local ACE Hardware had 4-40 x 1/4' L set screws in their specialty hardware section. Saved the extra steps of drilling and tapping. Simply cut 1/4 " off of the spring [length of the screw] and set screw screwed right in and pin works great.Watched the CMMG 308 Lower build and the person had to deal with 2 springs when installing the grip.

Aero Precision makes it an easy installation for rear take down pin. No drilling- No Tapping  

Thanks for the info - I don't even know how many AP receiver sets I have, I'd seriously have to get the guns out and count them.

What I was stating was pretty simple - #1, the bolt catch that you were referencing is not 4-40, though you stated that.  Not true.  #2, you can do this to ANY AR lower, no matter large or small.  I was stating how to do it with a 4-40 tap, or with a 6-32 tap if 4-40 set screws aren't available to you...

You seem to be confused, telling me all about the AP lower you got.  We were drilling and tapping these things 10 or more years ago - and finally a company came on board and started tapping them before any of you even received them, tapping them right from the factory... 

That make sense now?...  

Edited by 98Z5V

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My JD was threaded and set up to take the Bolt Catch screw for the rear takedown. Don’t know what the thread pitch was, but it was nice not having to tap it. I had a cheap tap break off in an AR15 receiver once and had to go back to chemistry school to learn how to dissolve the tap that was left in the receiver. 

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1 hour ago, 98Z5V said:

Thanks for the info - I don't even know how many AP receiver sets I have, I'd seriously have to get the guns out and count them.

What I was stating was pretty simple - #1, the bolt catch that you were referencing is not 4-40, though you stated that.  Not true.  #2, you can do this to ANY AR lower, no matter large or small.  I was stating how to do it with a 4-40 tap, or with a 6-32 tap if 4-40 set screws aren't available to you...

You seem to be confused, telling me all about the AP lower you got.  We were drilling and tapping these things 10 or more years ago - and finally a company came on board and started tapping them before any of you even received them, tapping them right from the factory... 

That make sense now?...  

the bolt catch that you were referencing is not 4-40, though you stated that.  Not true"

I guess you have never made any mistakes.

 

Regardless of size the bolt catch is threaded which is much easier than driving in a roll pin. 

 

BTW this thread was named AERO PRECISION M5  and my posting was about Aero Precision M5 Lower Receivers.

It does not make any difference to me who drills and taps what and when because it is already done on the Aero Precision M5.

Edited by TeleStratMan

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All I did was point out something you said, not accurate.  Then you got all elaborate about other stuff that's common knowledge for 10 or more years.  Cool. 

Have a good one.    :thumbup:

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My stripped DPMS lower receiver that I bought in 2010 had a threaded pin for the bolt catch installation.  Not long after 2010, SI Defense made alot of money making a higher quality threaded pin to replace the "stock" DPMS one - which were prone to cracking if you over-tightened them.

Your giant "reveal" here is not new technology, neither in the threaded pin for the bolt catch, nor the mods that we've been doing for more than 10 years for the takedown pin "mod.".

You announced this like it's some great breakthrough - and it's decade-old news, just new to you.  Think what you want, but you're not breaking any new news to anyone that's been in this game for more than a minute. 

Here's a DPMS LR-308 stripped ("K") lower receiver - take a look:

DPMS308LR05K_00.jpg

You are adamant that this thread is about Aero Precision.  Yeah, we all know about Aero Precision, very well, here.  However, the technology that you're talking about is WAY BEFORE anything Aero Precision did...  

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"You are adamant that this thread is about Aero Precision."

The facts are :

Aero Precision M5

By Albroswift, July 12 in .308AR Parts 

 

Don't care what DPMS or anyone did first because this thread was started about Aero Precision M5 Receivers.

 

In fact, my first reply included a quote from Brownells website. 

 

 

Edited by TeleStratMan

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You are specifically referencing the technology that is new to you.  But, whatever.  Drive on...   :thumbup:

Edited by 98Z5V

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On 7/20/2019 at 9:04 PM, TeleStratMan said:

Watched the CMMG 308 Lower build and the person had to deal with 2 springs when installing the grip.

 

Simple fix with a single spring when the spring goes in the back of the reciever; cut a piece of coat hanger wire (diameter is exactly what's needed!) a little longer than .70 and dress the ends square on a grinder or with a file to .70 (it's not critical, can be a few thou more or less) and put it in behind the spring. Done deal!

Edited by 392heminut

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I just completed an Aero M5 build with a PSA upper, minor modification ,milled out a small amount of material from the back part of the lower because the charging handle was preventing the upper from setting down properly on lower, runs great.

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1 hour ago, Rabid Dog said:

I just completed an Aero M5 build with a PSA upper, minor modification ,milled out a small amount of material from the back part of the lower because the charging handle was preventing the upper from setting down properly on lower, runs great.

Got any pictures?

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15 hours ago, Rabid Dog said:

I just completed an Aero M5 build with a PSA upper, minor modification ,milled out a small amount of material from the back part of the lower because the charging handle was preventing the upper from setting down properly on lower, runs great.

I tried a PSA upper on an Aero M5 lower - and it didn't fit.  The PSA parts are not "DPMS LR-308" based - they're proprietary, to PSA... 

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