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Epicersatz

Need help/advice!

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20 minutes ago, RedRiverII said:

Thank you Sir.  That'll work for me I'm not a gunsmith although I spend money here like I am.  How much have you spent hangin out here so far?  I don't require an exact number just fixing you up for the drought that is soon to follow.  Drought as in,  where's my money at?

Honestly, that set only cost me 10 bucks out of pocket, i had some credit left over.  I am sure I will spend more once I get the exact measurement. 

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23 hours ago, Epicersatz said:

Update:  Amazon sent me the wrong set, they sent me .001 through .060 not the whole thing. 

Make sure you do not inhale those ones .001 and in that range :-). A human hair is .003 or so depending on color :-).

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10 minutes ago, Epicersatz said:

Update:  I got the correct set of gauge pins and confirmed gas port size of .078.  That was the size of the gauge pin and confirmed with the caliper. 

So much for manufactures word. Don’t forget the dowel when you drill. nice and slow, let the bit eat. don’t over rev and heat it up - dulls bits.

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That right there, is likely a good portion of your problem. Drill it, put it back together, shoot it. Confirm one thing at a time. 

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6 hours ago, Radioactive said:

So much for manufactures word. Don’t forget the dowel when you drill. nice and slow, let the bit eat. don’t over rev and heat it up - dulls bits.

Yup

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Maybe @x-caliber will show up here and explain how they sell hundreds with the same port size to manufacturers and they always work........... again. Gotta say they did offer to fix mine for me and offered a discount on my next barrel.:thumbup:

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I'd love to say some really, REALLY nasty things about your barrel maker right now- but I'll refrain from doing that.  What sucks the most is that they lied to you, and told you a big fat lie about what the port size should be, and that they stated they drilled it to. 

THAT sucks.  That right there just shows that they can't be trusted to get a functional barrel out their front door (or back loading dock). 

This doesn't surprise my in the least.  Not at all. 

Fine, fine work, X-Caliber - you've proven our point here, once again.  Great job.  Fix your issues, and you'll probably get a great product out the door, and stop getting slammed for sending out bad barrels that don't work.  Solid plan, you think?...   :thumbup::popcorn:

Quote

I haven't measured the port myself but after speaking with the owner of X-Caliber he assured me that the gas port was drilled at .095.

Edited by 98Z5V

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1 minute ago, 98Z5V said:

I'd love to say some really, REALLY nasty thing about your barrel maker right now- but I'll refrain from doing that.  What sucks the most is that they lied to you, and told you a big fat lie about what the port size should be, and that they drilled it to. 

THAT sucks.  That right there just shows that they can't be trusted to get a functional barrel out their front door (or back loading dock). 

This doesn't surprise my in the least.  Not at all. 

 

 

My question at this point would be to what size should I drill to?  Should I just go ahead and make it .095 and call it a day or start at .090 and go from there?

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I'm so unbelievably happy that my .260 Rem gun turned out the way it did.  When I was ITCHIN' to build that thing, there wasn't a barrel manufacturer that had a production barrel made - and I was leaning towards X-Caliber to get one made.  Lo and Behold, about a week after this .260 Rem bug bit me HARD in the ass-etts - Wilson Combat announced that they were doing .260 Rem barrels.  Not even 2 days later, LaRue announced that they were doing .260 Rem barrels.  I had a HARD choice between the two companies, but LaRue was doing a 22" barrel, and Wilson Combat was doing a 20" barrel - what I REALLY wanted was an 18" barrel, but oh well - I went with the Wilson Combat.  I'd done some of their barrels before, and they work really, really well.  I wasn't nervous about making the order, not in the least.  When I got it and shot it - it's a laser-beam.  It's probably the most accurate long-distance AR that I own.

And I'm GLAD that I didn't have to order that X-Caliber barrel...   Timing by 2 companies was just perfect... 

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34 minutes ago, Epicersatz said:

My question at this point would be to what size should I drill to?  Should I just go ahead and make it .095 and call it a day or start at .090 and go from there?

Based on this part:

Quote

Forward Control Design gas block (low profile, non adjustable)

Start 0.090",fire your gun, and see how it does.  If it's not fully cycling, and you have more issue, then we need to go a up a little, in small increments, until your gun functions with your ammo choice.  Use good ammo, testing this thing.

DEFINITELY NOT a ding on your gas block choice. Roger builds the finest parts in this entire industry, and he's a great personal friend.  FCD is above reproach.  :hail:

EDIT - you need to fix that receiver extension, first and foremost - that pic you posted earlier - that receiver extension that you have should be 9 11/16" internal depth, and it's not - from the pic.

20201017_105321.thumb.jpg.59f2bfedf4d66fbcdd8447c196b441ff.jpg

Edited by 98Z5V

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11 hours ago, 98Z5V said:

Based on this part:

Start 0.090",fire your gun, and see how it does.  If it's not fully cycling, and you have more issue, then we need to go a up a little, in small increments, until your gun functions with your ammo choice.  Use good ammo, testing this thing.

DEFINITELY NOT a ding on your gas block choice. Roger builds the finest parts in this entire industry, and he's a great personal friend.  FCD is above reproach.  :hail:

EDIT - you need to fix that receiver extension, first and foremost - that pic you posted earlier - that receiver extension that you have should be 9 11/16" internal depth, and it's not - from the pic.

20201017_105321.thumb.jpg.59f2bfedf4d66fbcdd8447c196b441ff.jpg

@98Z5V This might be beating a dead horse but I want to be sure...

 

I was reading the buffer tube thread in the building forum and i noticed the lengths mentioned were for AR10 and not for DPMS.  This is a DPMS pattern, should I still get a longer buffer tube (internal length) and spring?

Edited by Epicersatz
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Interesting point is that the buffer was short by almost the same amount as the internal depth of the tube. It’s possible it will run with it, yes. If you want to be absolutely certain and don’t mind spending another few dollars, swap it out. If you want to see how it goes, open up the port to .90 and run it. If it still has issues, I personally would then swap the buffer/tube/spring for proven parts, and if it still had issues I would drill up the port a little until I was happy. Just my thought process, might not be right - just the way I would approach it. 

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12 hours ago, Epicersatz said:

@98Z5V This might be beating a dead horse but I want to be sure...

 

I was reading the buffer tube thread in the building forum and i noticed the lengths mentioned were for AR10 and not for DPMS.  This is a DPMS pattern, should I still get a longer buffer tube (internal length) and spring?

Proven specs are proven specs, and ALL Rifle Receiver Extensions are 9 11/16" internal depth, period.  AR-10, DPMS LR-308, AR15, A1 and A2 buttstocks on any of them - Rifle Receiver Extensions actually have a standard, and that standard doesn't deviate from 9 11/16" internal depth. 

That's my $0.02.  Fix your recoil system with proven, reliable, decades-old parts that work...   and you still need to fix your gas port in your barrel, because you were lied to on the diameter. 

Sounds like I'm harsh, but it's not directed at you.  It's at the manufacturers that boned this up, badly.  Like @DNP stated, drill the port, try your gun.  It's never gonna be truly right though, until you fix that recoil system.  It's like being able to program EFI systems - you have a cylinder down, bad injector.  That dead cylinder has you down on power.  So, you re-tune the engine and up the power on the other cylinders, to give you some performance back...   But you're putting the band-aid on the wrong cut, and you continue bleeding, and that engine is still not running right...   Until you fix the actual issue...  Or all of the issues...   Later down the road, you find out that you leaned those other cylinders out so bad, just to make power, that you damaged the engine, and need to rebuild it...  Because of an injector.  Fixing it right, when you know what the real issues are, is gonna save you grief down the road...  

You need to address that recoil system.  Maybe you don't need to, to find out if you can have a functional gun - but you'll need to in order to make a functional gun, with any ammo that you throw at it, in any conditions, all the time.  It's just a matter of finding "that time" that your gun doesn't work anymore, with whatever combination that was thrown at it right then.

And...   we'll all be in another "diagnostic thread" trying to figure out what happened, then...   :popcorn:

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3 minutes ago, 98Z5V said:

Proven specs are proven specs, and ALL Rifle Receiver Extensions are 9 11/16" internal depth, period.  AR-10, DPMS LR-308, AR15, A1 and A2 buttstocks on any of them - Rifle Receiver Extensions actually have a standard, and that standard doesn't deviate from 9 11/16" internal depth. 

That's my $0.02.  Fix your recoil system with proven, reliable, decades-old parts that work...   and you still need to fix your gas port in your barrel, because you were lied to on the diameter. 

Sounds like I'm harsh, but it's not directed at you.  It's at the manufacturers that boned this up, badly.  Like @DNP stated, drill the port, try your gun.  It's never gonna be truly right though, until you fix that recoil system.  It's like being able to program EFI systems - you have a cylinder down, bad injector.  That dead cylinder has you down on power.  So, you re-tune the engine and up the power on the other cylinders, to give you some performance back...   But you're putting the band-aid on the wrong cut, and you continue bleeding, and that engine is still not running right...   Until you fix the actual issue...  Or all of the issues...   Later down the road, you find out that you leaned those other cylinders out so bad, just to make power, that you damaged the engine, and need to rebuild it...  Because of an injector.  Fixing it right, when you know what the real issues are, is gonna save you grief down the road...  

You need to address that recoil system.  Maybe you don't need to, to find out if you can have a functional gun - but you'll need to in order to make a functional gun, with any ammo that you throw at it, in any conditions, all the time.  It's just a matter of finding "that time" that your gun doesn't work anymore, with whatever combination that was thrown at it right then.

And...   we'll all be in another "diagnostic thread" trying to figure out what happened, then...   :popcorn:

Nah man, of course total understand.  I just wanted to be sure I am replacing with the correct parts, that is all.  I have no issues with getting this rifle working.  I live in NC and we have no restriction on what type of rifle you can use to hunt so my plan was to make this my hunting rifle.  Having 2 small children and wife who is a nurse and works weekends my range time has been limited but I will those fixes and report back once I have had a chance to get the range.  I got a 1/4 inch wooden dowel and cutting oil from the home depot today and numbered drill bits coming tomorrow. 

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When I drilled out the barrel I went ahead and took off a few parts to remeasure and the buffer tube is actually 9 and 11/16 inches long.  The spring is 11.75 inches relaxed so that being said I am guessing I would just need to get the standard 13.75 inch AR 10 buffer spring. 

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Sweet. Keep us posted. Get her back together and go shoot it. Curious minds want to know....and then swap out that recoil system if you’re going to, but I would want to see what changes that little bit of port opening made. (Just me being curious on wanting to see). 

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Posted a hair too late on my part. Yes. Get the right spring and buffer in there and you should be good to go. I guess I missed the spring being way short. I saw the internal depth and the buffer length. I would swap that spring before shooting. 

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19 minutes ago, DNP said:

Posted a hair too late on my part. Yes. Get the right spring and buffer in there and you should be good to go. I guess I missed the spring being way short. I saw the internal depth and the buffer length. I would swap that spring before shooting. 

@DNP I will get the right spring.  I was about to order the AR10 rifle spring from heavybuffers.  No idea why Aero would send a shorter spring knowing its a .308 unless DPMS pattern comes with the 11.75 spring. 

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7 hours ago, Epicersatz said:

When I drilled out the barrel I went ahead and took off a few parts to remeasure and the buffer tube is actually 9 and 11/16 inches long. 

Is that Overall Length (OAL), end to end, or is that the bottomed-out internal depth.  The internal depth is what matters. Internal depth needs to be 9 11/16".

Edited by 98Z5V

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5 hours ago, 98Z5V said:

Is that Overall Length (OAL), end to end, or is that the bottomed-out internal depth.  The internal depth is what matters. Internal depth needs to be 9 11/16".

internal. 

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