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locknload

Hello from Best Virginia

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Hi all, 

I finally got around to building a super sweet 308AR annnnnd I love it.  It's all finished, just need to buy some glass for it so I have a lot to learn about scopes.  I have a Viper PST II 1-6 on my .223 Wylde and my others are red/green dots, that's where my scope experience ends.  So yeah, glad to have found this place and hope to learn a bunch.

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welcome.. the vortex pst is my go to. what is your intended use and range for the build? details on build ? 

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Thanks.  I'm pretty happy with the PST except for the weight which I feel holding it all day at comps.  As far as my 308 build, my intent was a medium to long range rifle while still trying to have a close range heavy hitter.  I'd like to qualify for the 1,000 meter at my range and see what it can do there.  Because I'd also like to be able to use it at closer ranges (within 200 yds) I'm still debating on which magnification I'd like, a 3-15ish or 6.5-20 or 25.  I'm really leaning towards Leupold's 3VX31-LRP or their VX-5HD.

My 308 build is as follows:

  • SLR Rifleworks B30 billet receiver set
  • SLR Rifleworks 16" ION lite hand guard
  • SLR Rifleworks Sentry 7 adjustable gas block
  • Faxon 18.6" Gunner profile barrel, rifle length gas
  • Faxon nitride BCG
  • VG6 Epsilon brake
  • Larue MBT-2S
  • Radian Talon safety and Raptor charging handle
  • Luth-AR MBA-1 stock
  • Armaspec silent buffer/spring sytem
  • BCM Mod 2 grip

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16 hours ago, locknload said:
  • Armaspec silent buffer/spring sytem

More details on this.  What's the buffer weight?  What's the spring pressure?  This single part might be a mistake, pending your response on those details.

When you choose "fancy shiit" - you choose "complicated solutions..."   Stick with shiit that works.  Don't complicate shiit with complicated shiit. 

Same thing goes with the adjustable gas block -if you're not gonna suppress this weapon, then you shouldn't need an adjustable gas block.

Unless you are purely building a Race Gun.

Edited by 98Z5V

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7 hours ago, 98Z5V said:

More details on this.  What's the buffer weight?  What's the spring pressure?  This single part might be a mistake, pending your response on those details.

When you choose "fancy shiit" - you choose "complicated solutions..."   Stick with shiit that works.  Don't complicate shiit with complicated shiit. 

Same thing goes with the adjustable gas block -if you're not gonna suppress this weapon, then you shouldn't need an adjustable gas block.

Unless you are purely building a Race Gun.

Is this how you come at new 308ar.com members, telling them not to "complicate poop" and "stick to poop that works" when they never stated a problem with their build... in their introduction post?  I was looking for scope advise not "why won't my rifle cycle" but to answer your question, it's a 5.7 oz weight, no idea on the spring rate. 

"When you choose "fancy shiit" - you choose "complicated solutions..."   Stick with shiit that works.  Don't complicate shiit with complicated shiit. "

The term "solution" indicates the need to address a problem, no problem with the build choices I made.  How do you know my build doesn't function properly?  The rifle runs great and recoils close to a factory built 5.56 due to the parts I chose.  Just because this is my first 308 build doesn't mean I didn't research it for months on end prior to choosing parts.

As far as an adjustable gas block, how do you know I don't have plans to run a can later?  I never stated either way.  Even if I don't run one, why send more gas to the bolt than is necessary for the rifle to function?  Answer, to cycle nearly every mfg of .308 ammo.  I don't have that as an issue right now and if I do later, it's just a few clicks to the left to open the block a little more.

Thanks for the warm welcome to 308ar.com.

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Settle down Francis. He stated that because hydraulic buffers are a known problem for 308AR builds. If yours has been built and functioning then you could just state that and thank him for his concern. No less than 12 people welcomed you here. You are welcome here, and congrats on your rifle. I would also suggest that if weight is an issue get a smaller magnification or fixed magnification scope. Or maybe buy two. One for long range and one for intermediate with a quality QD mount for each with a repeatable zero

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What he said on scopes, I'm forever swapping them around to see what type fits a rifle before buying the one dedicated to it........ didn't realize how contradictory that sounds until I wrote it down.

 

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Welcome to the 308AR community and congratulations for your new build. If you have not decided on the glass, my suggestion is to go with the best quality option you are willing to buy for the intended purpose/capability of the rifle. If you are not sure about MOA or MRAD, go with MRAD. If you buy a quality scope, get a quality mount...With the low recoil and high quality optics you will have a higher chance of seeing the impact and making an accurate correction...Good luck.

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3 hours ago, jtallen83 said:

What he said on scopes, I'm forever swapping them around to see what type fits a rifle before buying the one dedicated to it........ didn't realize how contradictory that sounds until I wrote it down.

 

That's one thing I'm trying to avoid due to cost but it just may very well work out that way 😁, thanks.

5 minutes ago, M512D said:

Welcome to the 308AR community and congratulations for your new build. If you have not decided on the glass, my suggestion is to go with the best quality option you are willing to buy for the intended purpose/capability of the rifle. If you are not sure about MOA or MRAD, go with MRAD. If you buy a quality scope, get a quality mount...With the low recoil and high quality optics you will have a higher chance of seeing the impact and making an accurate correction...Good luck.

MRAD vs MOA is just different math right?  Is MRAD more of a simple calculation?  The other issue is FFP or SFP.  I like FFP to be able to use my subtensions at any magnification but the reticle becomes pretty small at lower magnification correct?  I need to get my hands on a couple scopes to look through, it may or may not be an issue.  My plan was for a Scalarworks mount once I decide on a scope and yes I would definitely like to be able to see my impacts for on the fly correction.  Thanks for your help!!

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Definitely FFP for long range as you can use the reticle for making measurements and calculating/making corrections. MRAD is easier for making the calculations on fly but no difference if you use a range finder and ballistic calculator. If you don't have a preference, go with MRAD. If you choose a high quality optics for long range, avoid quick detach mounts or anything that can add play in the system. The high end scopes are not just the optics/clarity of the image. They are also the reticle adjustment mechanism - accuracy, repeatability, reliability, shock resistance, etc. Check what others use for your intended purpose, avoid novelties...

Edited by M512D

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18 hours ago, M512D said:

Definitely FFP for long range as you can use the reticle for making measurements and calculating/making corrections. MRAD is easier for making the calculations on fly but no difference if you use a range finder and ballistic calculator. If you don't have a preference, go with MRAD. If you choose a high quality optics for long range, avoid quick detach mounts or anything that can add play in the system. The high end scopes are not just the optics/clarity of the image. They are also the reticle adjustment mechanism - accuracy, repeatability, reliability, shock resistance, etc. Check what others use for your intended purpose, avoid novelties...

Good deal, thanks again M51.

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