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I need some learning help....


Magwa
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13 hours ago, sketch said:

It's the same as the single ej. Bolt,  depress the ej's with a spent case (or cut down case) drive the slave pin out and remove one before the other. 

You got that bolt pretty quickly 🍻🍻

Yeah I got lucky and found one on sale at "arm or ally" for 129.00 fast shipping too.......

Thanks everyone I will surround the sucker with a tarp to catch little parts lol

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The bolt I took apart from Sharps had one pin keeping  both ejectors in place.... The other pin that you see may be for the extractor... but Regardless,

One TIP: when I worked on both a single ejector and my dual ejector bolts, if you clamp or vise a cut off casing to depress the ejectors, you may want to if you can back off on the pressure of the vise so that if not fully depressed.  When I first did it, with the case completely squished in there so it was straight just like a regular bullet would be, it caused too much shear friction on the pin so it would not pound out.  Backing off on the ejector squish a tad lets the pin be loose in the ejector slot and won’t require nearly as much force.  Good luck

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13 hours ago, Magwa said:

Ok so maybe there is a new model as mine has two pins one for each ejector I am going to use the 45 acp method  but have to buy a drift pin that will fit going to town today....

I just quoted this so you might be notified of my Tip I just wrote.... maybe you have already completed the task by now... it’s tricky to stabilize the bolt if it isn’t clamped fully in a vise, but what I did is I drilled a hole to accept the skinny tube part of the bolt, into a 3/4 inch piece of wood.  Then with that against one jaw of the vise, and the cut casing on the other jaw of the vise, I cranked it nearly tight... then I slipped another block of wood under the bolt but on top of the bottom shaft of the vice.  I think then I sort of had to use something else then  on top to keep it from wiggling out.  I wish I could remember more, but you’ll figure it out

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10 hours ago, DustBuster said:

I just quoted this so you might be notified of my Tip I just wrote.... maybe you have already completed the task by now... it’s tricky to stabilize the bolt if it isn’t clamped fully in a vise, but what I did is I drilled a hole to accept the skinny tube part of the bolt, into a 3/4 inch piece of wood.  Then with that against one jaw of the vise, and the cut casing on the other jaw of the vise, I cranked it nearly tight... then I slipped another block of wood under the bolt but on top of the bottom shaft of the vice.  I think then I sort of had to use something else then  on top to keep it from wiggling out.  I wish I could remember more, but you’ll figure it out

Thank you I have not yet got it done still looking for a punch but the wood Idea is great again thanks...

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Ok got everything taken apart and used the go gauge and the bolt goes in and locks, so I tried to make a no go gauge from the go gauge with the tape method but the only tape I had was really thin and it closed on it as well after a little pressure so am I ok to go?

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I can’t remember how many slices scotch tape it took to add .004 to equal a no-go gauge... I’m thinking 2 slices was close.  I only did it out of curiosity when I rented some gauges and wanted to see how many slices made up the difference.  I now use a No-Go I bought and use that to accurately size a go sized brass casing.  I’m not sure of the Creedmore size difference between the two gauges.  Someone else will have more tape information. 

@Magwa, how did you remove the ejector pin(s) on your bolt?  Was it easy for you?

 Calipers and a homemade comparator would be useful for this or future checks of various sorts

Edited by DustBuster
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Scotch tape probably compresses being soft, either take a sacrificial feeler guage set and cut up a 4thou onto a disk. Just a tiny dap of grease will hold the piece on the back of the go gauge.

If you know someone at a machineshop you could see if they can give you a small piece of 4thou shim stock and use that instead of cutting up a feeler gauge.

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12 hours ago, DustBuster said:

I can’t remember how many slices scotch tape it took to add .004 to equal a no-go gauge... I’m thinking 2 slices was close.  I only did it out of curiosity when I rented some gauges and wanted to see how many slices made up the difference.  I now use a No-Go I bought and use that to accurately size a go sized brass casing.  I’m not sure of the Creedmore size difference between the two gauges.  Someone else will have more tape information. 

@Magwa, how did you remove the ejector pin(s) on your bolt?  Was it easy for you?

 Calipers and a homemade comparator would be useful for this or future checks of various sorts

this bolt did have two separate pins one per ejector I had to make a punch for them they are tiny once I had a punch it was easy I drilled a small piece of hardwood to except the gas end of the bolt then i cut a base off a creedmoor brass and used that in a vice not super tight but just a little off tight and they came right out yes it is a PITA but done now I ordered a no go gauge last night so I will have it soon and be done with this and get to load development...

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Go gauge was a GO and No Go was No Go so I am set operation 6.5 Creedmoor is up and ready to rumble, I am adding a Luth stock to it It has a 22 inch Aero Barrel and I installed my Vortex PST 5 to 25 on my Larue 111 quick detach mount and a dedicated toolcraft BCG dual ejectors.... I will start load development this week so if anyone needs go no go gauges I have them for loan....... pictures to follow..Thanks to everyone who helped me get this done I leaned a lot..

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