speeddreamz

Recently put together a Ma-Ten upper/lower with a fulton armory barrel and BCG (headspaced by them), and while adjusting my PRI gas block I noticed some weird brass markings. I am using some dynamit nobel 7.62 nato ammo. The case has what appears to be 2 sets of perforations(like a perforations on your common pay stub) running vertically starting from the neck of the case. It only happens after shot, not when I load a round and eject it without firing. If I can provide any more info please let me know.

What happened to the Saiga? Glad to see you decided to do a build on this though

just called pri, they're going to ship me one with a gas tube installed. I'm going to send mine back.

tried beveling it... it goes thru but it doesn't seem like the gas block hole would line up with the tube... i'm a bit worried about that. It won't go all the way thru, just the tip

looks like the gas tube is rotating just slightly so it won't go out the other end.

Confused by what you mean, "fully supported?"

I to save my life could not get the roll pin into the gas block/ gas tube. The tube is aligned correctly from what I can tell, it will allow a smaller than 5/64th punch to drop right in between the gas block and the tube. I've tried roll pin holders and roll pin punches of exactly the 5/64th size. I'm using a table vise with padded sides. It goes in 3/4th of the way and won't come out the other side of the gas tube/gas block.

updated the pics... Trying to decide, moly grease or millet 1?

What kind of grease, the website here says that he's used Militec-1 and other times moly grease? What do you think? When you're talking about burrs on the receivers face I'm not familiar with where the face is?

Cool, note taken. Yeah I may not install the barrel nut for the 2 piece hand guard. I figure if I put it on I can take it off and put it on again. I'll likely wait till sws puts out another 14, go with the troy mrf 13.8 or go with the rainier arms 13.

Got the roll pin punches, 308 panther claw for putting the upper onto then into a vise. Sure you don't want to sell me that sws handguard jgun? Thats the one i'm gunnin for. He won't have any more for a few more months. I'm probably gonna go with a 2piece non floated handguard till I find something better or till ART makes some more of the 14"

Bingo! I want to know torque specs, stuff like "hand tighten by hand and then give it a quarter turn more" kind of advice. "be careful not to overtighten" "test fit first"

Oh and as far as the lower goes, I'm throwing a UBR on there, possibly an ACS depending on how heavy things are.

So I've built many AR15s from stripped lowers, and putting together the MA Ten lower wasn't much harder. I'm not for the first time piecing together the upper components. I need a bit of advice on the install. What sort of things do I need to watch out for? Over torquing ? Stripping threads? Gas block not installed correctly? I don't completely understand head spacing but Rich at fulton armory said he would find a bolt and barrel that matches up. Here are the parts I have which seem to be complete?!? -Ma Ten Upper Rec -Panther Claw 308 upper block -DPMS LR10/AR10 barrel nut tool -Fulton Armory 18.5" lw barrel (Rifle Length Gas sys) -Fulton Armory BCG (supposedly properly head spaced to the barrel?) -Rifle Length Gas tube -DPMS Delta Ring -DPMS 308 barrel nut -PRI Adjustable low prof gas block .750 -(plans for a free float but just can't decide at the moment) ----- Update Just waiting on the barrel nut/delta ring kit/triangle cap. [img width=810 height=604]http://i56.tinypic.com/14wefde.jpg [img width=810 height=604]http://i54.tinypic.com/2i7r5vn.jpg

will this work for an Armalite SR25 ar10 or a dpms lr-10?