waterman7474

Ok, $1100 ??

I am 75% sure I want to sell this. Don't get me wrong, I really like it and I was super jazzed to build (thanks to a little help from you guys here) it but I think it is just a little to impractical for what I need. To be honest, it is just to big and heavy for toting around. I knew that going into it but I didn't think it was going to be quite this awdward. Anyway, here is what you are looking at. lr-308 high top reciever (few small blemishes in the rails that disappear with the scope and a few around the egection port, i can provide better pictures as needed) lr-308 lower with dpms parts kit and panther pistol grip with palm well dpms 18in heavy barrel (no cutout) (in the neighborhood of 250 rounds, less than 300 for sure) Fulton chrome/staked carrier and pin JP bolt GRG free float quad rail Magpul fixed stock 4 magpul mags (3 still in bags) negotiable (might keep for the next rifle but have stock replacements for both) pws fsc30 muzzle brake. kns pins. scope NOT included. Shoots pretty darn well. I had Brentwood gunsmithing in here in vegas tune it for me when it was finished. Seems to shoot the 168gn . Shot it this weekend out to 400yds and was ringing a 8in plate all day with a 10x scope in a 10-15 mph variable wind and cheaper russian colt ammo (only Colt zinc plated, never steel/laqured) . Ran match ammo in the first 60 rounds but had all different weights trying to figure out what worked and once the 168s worked, i got a deal on a larger amount of the Colts and have run them as the rest to break it in. Rarely will FTE and then double feed, did it this weekend but I think it was A) cheap ammo and B) dry as when i shot it with touch of little clp, it stopped. I'm pretty sure with match ammo and a better trigger (and a more experienced shooter), it would really perform. 3 pics of rifle. One out in the field. One from this weekend at 380 yards and the steel when I picked it up after it got last shot knocked it over. I don't really have a price as I am trying to figure out what it will bring. If it is reasonable, I'll do it. I think somewhere north of 1k is reasonable. Make me an offer. (btw, I am most likely going to then purchase a Ruger Gunsite Scout Rifle MKII to replace it so if you have one and would consider a trade, lets definitely talk)

So it looks like the gas block was not correctly lined up and the disconnector spring in the trigger had gone walkabout and causing the auto-fire issues. Between that and the new spring, runs like a top now. Thanks for all the help guys. Hopefully this will help someone else out down the road.

Decided to take it to a gunsmith. He is scratching his head. I definitely had the wrong spring (he had an in the package dpms 308 spring and it was different than the two i had). The thought it might have been from shooting too light of a load, ran some russian surplus 180 grain stuff and didn't eject at all. He's gonna do a complete teardown and re-build. Thinks the auto-fire might be from me "cleaning up" the trigger. I knew better but did it anyway for some stupid reason.

Most of this problem started with the bolt issue from JP. There were issues with the ejector/extractor. It seems to be ejecting better but not perfect. The carrier is Fulton Armory. I guess it could be something there.

I will try this with the old stock, although....the extension goes on the outside of the tube and shouldn't effect the spring or any other function at all right?? I am thinking I might have to just start with a new trigger group now, maybe I messed it up.

Thanks, Flitz was the first thing I have done, recommended from another site. Twice actually. one of the ARF guys suggested the springs too. I will take it apart and look there. maybe i reassembled wrong. i did a little light dremmel (with a wire wheel) on the sear, to try and take some of the grit out. could that be the auto fire issue? took the extension out, using the new magpul fixed stock.

These is factory ammo. So I just went out. Switched to the long spring and standard buffer. Not great. First shot, two rounds, 95% closed bolt. Then tried one round to see if bolt locked back. It did. Ran two more through, 95% closed on second, then didn't lock bolt back. Ran two more, went full auto. Ran three, full auto (fun....but concerning) Ran two, bad ejection Then two more bad ejections. I am lost....

i will try the bolt locking back this weekend. I put the longer spring in. i am begining to think this might have been the issue and i got them mixed up.

Thanks. I will try most of these tonight in the garage (except the firing and lock back....) Let me know what yall find on the springs. I was going to swap them out but Dave from JP said this That actually sounds like it was correct. Buffer A sounds like a standard DPMS 308 buffer and Spring A sounds like a DPMS 308 spring as well. The B parts sound like Knights Armament parts. They use a longer spring and a simple plastic buffer that looks like a long carbine buffer as you describe. The duplex style as you put it is more typical for a rifle buffer from everyone else. I have never tried a KAC buffer and spring in any other rifle but they are actually pretty similar in final spring rate, but don’t mix the KAC spring with the DPMS buffer or vice versa. I don't guess it could hurt to swap out the spring and try the longer one. I am pretty sure I am using the correct buffer. And I have my suspicions on lining up the gas tube. As you can see from the first page of the arf post, it was off once before but I feel like i got it on correctly. It is so hard to tell with a clamp on block.

I am working on a new lr-308 build and have had a few issues and am now dealing with this issue. I thought I would try here as solutions seem to have dried up on the other site and maybe I will get some fresh perspective here. I will link to the other thread (if that is ok) to save me retyping this as I think the history has bearing on the issue. first issue http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_121/603919_new_lr_308_build_with_mild_extraction_issues.html&page=1 If you followed that to the end of page two, the problem in a nut shell is this: The ejection issue is fixed, drops them every time in the same place,.....but now the bolt doesn't go all the way home to lock after the first shot. It seems to get 90-95% there and jams. I have to mortor it a little bit to get the handle back. And if I pull it all the way back and let it go, it slams home fine. It actually double fired on me once, full auto style, bam bam. Luckily I was just out in the desert cause it startled me a little and would have certainly raised and eyebrow if I had been at a range. I was then asked to look into the spring and buffer and came up with this. so I was given two different springs and two different buffers. This is a magpul moe rifle stock, with the A2 buffer tube. buffer A - 5.25 in, silver and has a ring 1/3 way from the end (like a duplex nail) buffer B - 5.0 in, black smooth like a longer ar15 buffer neither are marked Spring A - 12 in, 38 coils and thicker (than the other one and my 15 buffer) spring B - 17 in, 41 coils and thinner I had spring A and buffer A. I am thinking that buffer A is correct but i should be using spring B The (very helpful so far) engineer at JP seems to think that spring and buffer A are dpms 308 stock kit and B are KAC kit and that I shouldn't mix them. He seems to think that maybe there might be an issue with one of the locking lugs on the barrel extension. I am outside my sandbox now. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance,

sorry guys, it has sold.

VERY new here (been lurking for a min) but I have a new, in the package, unfired RRA complete BOLT that I would like to trade for a complete DPMS BOLT (not the carrier). you can email me here or at waterman7474@yahoo.com. i have a good record on ebay under the same name and a short but good history on ar15.com as well.