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Kingchooser

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  1. Does anyone have any experience with the vltor a5 buffer system on their 308? I am running rifle length gas with adjustable gas block and figured I would ask around before I called Sprinco. I have read plenty of suggestions, some that I know to be wrong, and wondered if anyone has gone down this road themselves. Best I can tell, a 308 carbine buffer and an orange spring will do the trick, but I am wanting to get the lightest combo I can and adjust gas accordingly. thanks
  2. My aero precision build turned out great. I recommend getting upper trued. I was right at 1 moa before I sent it to Mike at Dedicated Technologies and it instantly shrunk to a solid 5/8" all day. Also, Fulton armory 18.5" barrel is good to go. Rifle length gas is the way to go. Just my .02
  3. This is my first QD Larue mount, so this morning I broke it all down and reinstalled scope. I cleaned the gun and checked for any out of the ordinary signs of wear or rubbing. I am going to put it on my bolt gun and test it. I figure there are 2 possibilities. 1. It was shooter error. I am basing this on the notion that if I was taking a lot longer to fire, I must have not been comfortable with shot to begin with. 2. Cheap ammo. Although I know it happened at least once with GMM. For the most part it was the ZQi stuff. It is probably a little of both. I do know that a 10-15F increase in casing temp can definately cause a high impact of .5mils+. I found this out last July when one of my ammo boxes slid off my mat and sat on the black hood of my truck for 15 minutes. I don't know what temp a chamber gets up to with varying firing scenarios, but I am going to find out.
  4. Aero precision set. Odin works kmod handguard. Fulton armory .308 1/10 18.5" ss rifle length gas and BCG. SLR sentry 9 clamp on.
  5. this is my first experience with an auto loader for long range precision shooting. I have only been able to put about 50 rounds through it so far. The first time I shot I got ZQi and 168 GMM to group around 1moa. The 2nd time I went out was to rezero with a Larue lt158 and due to this asinine time changing we do, I was trying to beat to darkness. I think I noticed that the rounds that sat in the chamber an extra 30-45 seconds due to me messing with adjustment or whatever, were flying high as much as 3-4 inches. With all my experience being with a bolt gun, I've never really had to consider chamber time that much. Is this a common problem with these guns? After the barrel heats up, do you pretty much have to send the rounds much quicker than on a cooler barrel. I realize the type of ammo used is a big factor with this. Right now I definitely would not consider using Reloader powder due to its temp sensitivity. Am I off base here? It makes sense to me, otherwise I wouldn't be so anal about chambering a round in my bolt gun until ready to send it. Any thoughts? Thanks
  6. The trueing is squaring the face of the upper where the flange meets the receiver. It can't hurt. Rarely are they perfect when forged. The loctite is filling any void, however so small. There is a reason high end Megas usually require heating to get extension in. I thought it wise to get some loctite 246, which is high temp but blue, so it's not semi perminent. it will remove without heat.
  7. I want to true the upper just because it's only $30, and it eliminates a variable. Same with the loctite. If this was a Mega that I had to heat up just to get the extension seated, I wouldn't do it, but if I can eliminate any play whatsoever with a little loctite 620, then I do it. It isn't used as an adhesive, more as a gap filler. I want to try and push as many of the variables to the reloading bench as my budget allows, just part of the game. Once I get it set up, I don't want to mess with anything. Of course I run the risk of ending up with looser groups, but I don't think that'll happen. If all the groups were touching, I would reframe.
  8. After the bolt catch wouldn't hold the carrier back Friday night, I broker her down completely yesterday and found some really rough spots in the bolt catch buffer spring recess. Some 1500 sand paper around a toothpick and the problem seems to be gone. Stopped on the way home for 30 to test fire and she ran good. After 4 shots to zero, I fired 3, 3 shot groups. The one marked Z, is the ZQi stuff from walmart. The 2 marked F, is 168GMM. Definately happy with this start, especially since I didn't do a proper assembly. Besides torquing the barrel to spec, I just slapped it together, no loctite or anything. I might shoot another ten rounds in her once my SD-E trigger gets in, but then I am going to break it down and send the upper to mike at Dtech for truing. Then I will properly reassemble, 620 loctite the barrel extension in, and have at it. Specs: AP M5 upper/lower AP LPK, heavy trigger, but not as bad as feared AP forward assist strike industries dust cover odin works 15.5" kmod Fulton Armory 18.5" ss rifle gas Fulton Armory BCG and gas tube SLR sentry 9 clamp on ebay birdcage (for $10 I'll postpone specwar muzzle brake until xmas) mega arms ambi charging handle david tubb flatwire buffer spring (I feared it to be sluggish, but ran real soft) DPMS rifle buffer A2 stock, homemade kydex cheek piece and ergo grip scope is just a weaver K4 I slap on stuff to test. 40+ years and still holds zero pretty good. Anyone ever reloaded this ZQi brass? i think so far so good, what about yall? thanks guys
  9. Here we go. I have searched to no avail. Bolt catch not holding carrier back. I can engage the catch manually, barely bump stock, and down she comes. I found some posts on arfcom addressing same issue, but pics of catch modification aren't there any longer. Anyone able to describe or post a pic of the grinding that needs to be done to the AP bolt catch? The only reason I bought the ap LPK was to avoid this. Why do they sell parts that don't work with their receivers. On the brighter side, the 15.5" Odin works kmod flushes out with rail perfectly. Also, David tubb flatwire buffer spring feels weak. Maybe it will be fine, I'll know tomorrow Thanks for any help
  10. Yes, and you are right. The urge passed. I hunted for a recoil pad instead. Anyone here ever had luck with one of pachmayr's decelerator slip on pads on an a2? If so, what size did you order? Thanks
  11. Any chance someone could measure how far back the cheek riser is on their Magpul PRS stock? Impatient as I am, I'm wanting to go ahead and make my Kydex cheek riser for the A2 stock I am using, and my m5 upper doesn't get here for another five days. Distance from upper to the cheek piece is what I'm looking for. Thanks for any help.
  12. The matrix route didn't come to fruition. So I bought Aero Precision upper and lower. Hoping dpms bolt catch screw works on the AP. And I've heard mixed information on whether the safety selector detent is held in by screw or grip. Trying to use up spare parts and save 30 or 40 bucks
  13. Thanks for the welcomes in the intro. Since my first build has already changed, I figured I would try and get any advice I might need here soon. Here goes: matrix aerospace upper, lower, and handguard didn't pan out, so now going with aero precision upper and lower with an Odin works 15.5" Kmod handguard. Since I am getting a geissele, I'm planning on just buying the bolt catch, pivot/takedown pins, and extended mag catch button from AP, a mag catch from dpms, and cannabilizing parts to finish it out. My 18.5" SS Fulton Armory barrel, bcg and gas tube will be here Monday. i have an a2 stock off my original Bushmaster I plan on making a kydex cheek piece for. When I get my SLR sentry 9 clamp on gas block in, I plan on calling Sprinco to figure out buffer system. Throw a silencerco specwar muzzle break on, and I think I'm done. I talked with ODIN Works, and they say they haven't had any problems with the Aero Precision uppers flushing out at the rail. I hope this is the case. Has anyone here had luck buying bolt catch screw that works on AP? I figure the only reason they don't sell one, is because the DPMS ones will work. I realize I might be trying to hard to keep from buying the AP LPK, but I am squeezing every penny for what it's worth, and I have enough extra parts to get through it I believe. Is a sound stupid, should I just buy the damn kit? thanks for any heads ups or thoughts. Great forum here.
  14. Hello, i am about to start my first large frame AR build, and thought I would join the community. After building my first ar15 last year, I thought there would be the same amount of info out there on the large frames, but it seems like it isn't quite as popular of a thing as I once assumed. You really have one of the few gems out there with this forum. I figured I would throw my build out there and see if I got any advice. I am attempting a budget build for long range precision shooting. Not a competition type rig, more like a DMR. I still plan on going through cheap ammo for fun sometimes. I will be building the same type for a guy with deep pockets in a couple months, and basically I want to try and get close to the same performance for $700-1k less. His will probably be Mega and JP, but I'm looking for suggestions. Maybe I'm crazy, we will see. Thanks awaiting delivery: Matrix Aerospace receiver set and 15" keymod handguard, Cerakoted, with parts kits from Chris Riedeman at Central Florida Firearms Fulton Armory 18.5" SS barrel, rifle length w/ their special length gas tube Fulton Armory BCG, cheapest one have: A2 stock off my 2002 bushmaster, will make Kydex cheek riser like always, plus it will already work with my Accushot monopod assorted grips laying around PSA milspec ar15 trigger, just to break in barrel and enjoy it for the next month or so, getting Geissele SD-E getting: SLR Sentry 9 gas block Geissele SD-E silencerco specwar trifecta muzzle break mega arms ambi charging handle plan on calling Sprinco to work out buffer system once I get barrel and can measure gas port, they won't give it out Later on. Thanks
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