archangel2003

Even when I was in the USMC, the M16/AR-15 seemed a little, please forgive me, but for a guy that is 6"1' tall it was toy like. Small, light, tiny little bullet, and with the telescoping stocks seeming even shorter, is not impressive for me. The AR-308, now that I have most of the upper together seems like an adult version of an AR-15. It feels nice and solid. It also has decent round with decent power.

The PS-10 parts all fit perfectly. One question, the nut had the serrations and they were AR-15 sized so my AR-15 tool fit and worked. Are all the AR-308 nuts like that with the same size as the AR-15? It was nice not to have to re-torque over and over again to get the nut to line up with the gas tube hole in the upper, just torque it a few times to seat everything and let it go.

So far I have the upper with it's little parts, the lower yet to be welded, the barrel just came in the other day, and the BCG is due Monday. Today I ordered a barrel nut, the delta ring, spring and c clip from PSA, and I hope they fit as I did not see any complaints about them not being DPMS compatible. I had issue finding all the parts much less a complete set. I nearly done assembling my AR-15 and only have the front sight left (I assume it's a SLOW boat from China after the guy sending it bikes 1/2 way across ASIA) due sometime in 2016.

I found someone who has it full sized here. I think I'll start saving these to my photobucket account.

Here it is in full size. http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff502/augeekim/augeekim006/CRANE_GB_DRAWING_zps81582e3b.jpg~original

When I Google weapons prototype shop I get cartoons and games.

I assume they are compressed as they are too big? Can you send them in a PM?

I have the first 2 but the third is new to me. It looks like a low profile gas block. Do you have a full sized version of it?

That is the intent as I have both types of lowers to weld, and I already have a serialized poly AR-15 lower as a fall back if I screw up the weld together one. I'm ordering parts for both as I find them and right now for the AR-15 all I need is the BCG, barrel, gas block/tube, hand guard and some sort of muzzle attachment. Other than those parts listed above I still need for the 308, a charging handle, lower parts kit and barrel nut/parts.

Well, I need to piece it together as the funds become available and want to build it myself. I'm also building an AR-15 at the same time and am focusing on the lower assemblies first.

Looking for BCG/s I saw a lot of cheesy looking ones out there. I did notice that they did not have one that was lightened with round holes that also had a white coating (for the Swiss), or perhaps one that was white with random sized blue flecks (For the French).

I was looking up BCG's and barrels and saw something listed as being NTF coated and can't find any info on what that is. They list a bunch of different BCG coatings and what they are except that one.

Those Henrob torches are super nice. A friend loaned me one that had a little water damage and after cleaning it, I completely destroyed my first AK receiver weld attempt with it. It was so bad I cut it up for practice and patching. I guess once I used a MIG, I've not bothered to improve my skills with any other type of welding equipment. Yeah, F.C.A.W splatters like crazy unless you get the adjustment just right,(and still splatters) but I use splatter guard and often have to grind down the excess weld buildup anyway. In the summer I weld just inside the open garage door and the winter it's the basement window well. The first MIG I used was a Millermatic 250 and was what made me get one of my own I welded everything from throttle and wiper linkage to frame rails. However, when away from the shop, the thought of lugging a bottle around and having issues with the wind blowing away the gas was too much. I found that the smaller wire works better. I also use short pulses (1/2 to 3/4 second) every 1/2" or so at a higher power level than used for running a straight bead on that gauge of metal works well without overheating the work piece. For the AR lowers, the metal is so much thicker I'll probably turn the power up much higher than I used on the AK. The short pulsing almost needs the flux core as the gas would not give steady coverage for so short a time on the trigger.

I had assumed they were different as the size is different, but I also read where a lot of the AR-15 parts are supposed to fit in the DPMS 308, so wanted to see if anyone knew. Funds are tight, but it's also to see if it will work. I now have everything for the AR-15 except the BCG and the barrel so will be welding it soon. I have a couple of dusty poly AR-15 lowers so if I screw it up, I can still use the parts ordered to build the gun. The higher cost of a completed 308 AR is an issue and I enjoy fabricating.

The only part not standard is going to be the lower, and yeah, it will be a little heavier than an aluminum one, but I have no intent to be hiking the back country with it. I have a Sears Model 53 (Winchester model 70) in 30-06 if I want to hunt. When I get them together, I'll weigh them with nothing attached so we will know the difference.

Took a quick look and will look further, Thanks for the interesting read lead.

There will be pictures a plenty,with closeups of anything non-typical like the buffer tube welded and the retainer with a threaded hole going out the bottom for removal. There is a possibly a couple of minutes of video with me fumbling with the welder here and there too if I feel like "showing off my basement creation".

That AK receiver I did looked like all hell after I was done welding it, but it cleaned up fairly good. It still has some splatter pitting in the welded spots though so I'm hoping the parkerizing will help hide some of it.

Cheapskate, or frugal? Cheap is less expense with no regard as to quality, frugal is less expense while having as high a level of quality as you can attain. And I am not at the point yet where the $59 1-13/16 taper tap purchase needs to be made, so it could still make it into the budget, however, if I can find someone who has one to rent locally, even better. And the $1000 TIG welder will have to remain a dream for now. But the intent is not to show off my home garage creations, BTW, if you watched any of my crap videos, you would note they were shot in the basement. And I am in no way going to build anything like that black pipe monstrosity you mentioned, I am only fabricating the lower frame, all the internals and everything above the lower will be quality components, not high dollar custom flash, but of reasonable quality. Instead of an 80% lower build, mine is more like a 10% lower build, and it will look reasonably decent and in no way an embarrassment The upper, barrel and bolt carrier group will be standard items properly head spaced so why the long string? Do you recommend the long string theory to those who build one with an 80% lower? The AR-15 upper I got from RGUNS was deeply discounted as it had a blemish on it, otherwise a quality part, so $40 saved right there, granted it was not a color I wanted, but it will function as intended. The 308 lowers go from $150ish to well over $200, so $125 or more savings there as well. The stripped upper I got after a few week of looking was on sale for $121, but then a day after I ordered it I found one with the forward assist and dust cover for $89! $30 I could have saved had I waited one more day. I do not need top of the line free floating quad rails or any of that custom kitchy crap, I just want a "durable expedited lead delivery system" that wont break the bank. .

I was the one who was treated with disrespect, on my first post no less, and was just asking for someone to share some info. and I'm the dick? Just sayin. Most of the holes needed are on parts I can clamp and drill before final welding. I have an antique, heavy duty automatic tapper (like a drill press that can reverse while threading a hole without stripping the threads) and I use it as a drill press. It's great for drilling and tapping, now I just need to swap out my standard taps for gun taps. As far as the buffer tube, I have a metal supplier I have worked with that has that tube in stock in any length I want so was thinking of cutting one to the proper length, capping it, and welding it on. Other than using a threaded hole for the rear take-down pin spring, i see no reason to need it to be detachable. I have the print/dimensions for the tube used for the adjustable stock and I have the material to make the adjustment hole rack.

It will be unique enough that photos will ID it. I was thinking of etching a picture of a pissed off Casper on one side with "Restricted to Militia Use Only" and "A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed." on the other side.

That dishwasher guy did not scare me off at all, just got my dander up. In for a penny, in for pound? My video skills are, seriously lacking, but I did film a few minutes of welding the 3 piece receiver for the Hungarian AK-36D I made as well as a brass tumbler. https://www.youtube.com/user/archangel20031 I bolted the front and rear trunnions in and used a set of spacers I made to locate the hammer and trigger pins. Everything bolted together and worked perfectly after I finished welding and grinding, so I took it back apart to parkerize it (also another home build nearly complete and will be added to YouTube) once it's warm enough to fire it up in the garage with the doors open. I have to say the best friend of the builder of an AK is the sloppy as hell allowable tolerances. I did find 1.6mm metal is a lot easier to F.C.A.W weld than the 1mm is. I'm still dreaming of a T.I.G welder. I'm betting that the AR lowers, being made of so much thicker metal, should be easier to secure and tack-weld together. I'm waiting for the lower assembly kit to show up so I can verify function of the individual parts. I did order a couple of stripped poly lowers (just in case) way back before the last panic so have an example for assembly, and I also have a stripped AR-15 upper and a magazine. Once I get the AR-15 together, I'll put the 308 together. The DPMS 308 stripped upper just got here so all I need is a magazine and to know if enough of my AR-15 parts will work for fitting the 308 together.

Get in touch with Maduece and JB weld it? Sarcasm ninja, eh? So, who is your Maduece? I said weld, not glue, and just because some places have them for your "49 bills", I'm doing it for only $28, (AKA 28 bills) home grown and without any markings. If I wanted to have the same "P.O.S." as everyone else, I'd follow your herd. The only AR style weapons I have ever used were USMC issue, so no, I have never built one from scratch. If you don't have a constructive or helpful opinion, keep them to yourself. Thanks for the warm welcome there car-wash-guy.

Tried to edit and now it wont let me. Arch Do what?? welding? flat spot? WTF? Wash "I have just purchased a stripped DPMS upper and will be welding the lower (from the flat spot) as soon as I have the lower internal parts to verify fit and function. I also have a flat spot AR-15 lower that I just got the stripped upper for and will also be assembling and welding it at the same time, also as soon as I have the lower internal parts to verify fit and function." http://www.theflatspot.net/ http://www.theflatspot.net/308-receiver-flat-dpms-style-like-ar-10.html Yep, welding together from flat pieces of "heavy" metal. The say "mild steel construction cut on a 4000w industrial CNC laser" but some parts look like they came off of a rather sloppy plasma cutter and show signs of a lot of heat. Either way, it fits together rather well for the size of cut pieces that they are. I have already welded one of their 3 piece lowers and built an AK63-D. All that I have left to do is sand blast the small and raw parts, Parkerize it, then reassemble it. The AK barrel and bolt have already been head spaced and the barrel was reamed and pinned to the trunnion. I'm spending the winter building a few guns for a spring shooting trip and the main focus is doing it on the CHEAP. The AK is about 95% done but could be assembled as is (ugly) if dire need be. The AR-15 and a DPMS "AR-308" are about 10%ish done. Here is one of the parts in question. AR 308 CHARGING HANDLEManufacturer: PRECISION ARMS Model: AR15/AR308 Caliber: 30CAL/7.62 Color: BLACK SKU: PRE308CH

Arch Do what?? welding? flat spot? WTF? Wash "I have just purchased a stripped DPMS upper and will be welding the lower (from the flat spot) as soon as I have the lower internal parts to verify fit and function. I also have a flat spot AR-15 lower that I just got the stripped upper for and will also be assembling and welding it at the same time, also as soon as I have the lower internal parts to verify fit and function." http://www.theflatspot.net/ http://www.theflatspot.net/308-receiver-flat-dpms-style-like-ar-10.html Yep, welding together from flat pieces of "heavy" metal. I have already welded one of their 3 piece lowers and built an AK63-D. All that I have left to do is sand blast the small and raw parts, Parkerize it, then reassemble it. The AK barrel and bolt have already been head spaced and the barrel was reamed and pinned to the trunnion. I'm spending the winter building a few guns for a spring shooting trip and the main focus is doing it on the CHEAP. The AK is about 95% done but could be assembled as is (ugly) if dire need be. The AR-15 and a DPMS "AR-308" are about 10%ish done. Here is one of the parts in question. AR 308 CHARGING HANDLEManufacturer: PRECISION ARMS Model: AR15/AR308 Caliber: 30CAL/7.62 Color: BLACK SKU: PRE308CH