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new information and some of my buffer stats were off. Buffer tube length ID 9 3/4" Buffer spring Stainless relaxed length 12 1/2" long, x 29-30 coils Buffer length with nose 6" Buffer length without nose 5 9/16" Buffer weight will be available tomorrow when I can weight it exactly

The mag locks in just as it should by hand, I even have the extended release button called for by Aero in their lowers. The normal threaded stud is a bit too short on most of the mag release hardware and I had to get a longer one. I can take a pic though no problem

I found some of the data working on more. here are the specs on the buffer itself: 308 5.5 oz weightFeatures: Fit: LR-308 Length: 5.285" Weight: 5.5 oz

Survival shop, The set up is a 24" stainless fluted barrel, Aero lower, with a generic DPMS style upper from Cobratac. Luth stock. The spring, buffer and tube I need to get some more data on to be accurate, sorry, mike

Yes, I am hoping your right about that, maybe somehow that soft nose contributed to the problem, I have never run that kind of ammo before as I said, just seems wrong in an AR platform LOL Sisco, good points with trying a different mag and of course the ammo we all agree on. Upper and lower seem to fit nicely together, its a Aero lower with a generic DPMS style upper from Cobratac. edge Crusher, as to the buffer system, I need to get some more skinny on that. I know its the longer buffer tube of course, with the longer and heavier buffer, weight I will have to double check, and the spring is a stainless spring, but not a flat wire spring just traditional but stain less spring. One things guys I was wanting to get some consensus on, do we all agree that locked back by the bolt catch, the top round should strip off when released and feed fully into battery without having to pull back further on the charging handle to gain more momentum?

Guys I know we have all seen these posts before and we know all the common reasons for this. This one however is a little weird. I shot a new 308 that I just completed for the first time this weekend. It was a quick function only test since it was 0 degrees outside and I was not dressed for extended fun outdoors. The rifle ran well with 10 rounds through the 10-round magpul P-Mag but when the mag was empty, no lock back. I ran a second 10 rounds, same smooth function but no lock-back. I was surprised because it all works well and bolt locks back as it should when I manually pull back the bolt with the charging handle, each and every time locks in solid. All the parts seem to mesh well and engage solidly. So I started thinking, maybe short cycling?, the bolt not coming all the way back due to too much spring or too heavy a buffer? But if that were the case, why would the gun run so nice and even perform a quick triple tap without a hiccup? feed well, extracted well, etc. I was using a basic ammo that I picked up quick at rural king, some soft nose, 150 grain American Whitetail Hornady stuff. I normally do not ever run this type of Ammo through any of my AR's as I mostly run FMJ ammo. I did notice some very shallow dents in the brass in the same spots on about half the rounds but I hear that is not unusual in the 308. ALL of my experience with AR's to this point is .556 stuff. Now here is one other weird aspect to it. if I pull back the bolt with the charging handle and lock it back, then insert a magazine, and then hit the bolt release button, the top round does NOT peel off and feed into the chamber, it gets hung up each time. BUT, if I pull back on the charging handle and pull the bolt back just slightly further than where it would normally catch with the bolt catch, and let the bolt fly, it will feed. Its almost like the lock back point is not quite far enough back to fully clear the round and pulling back on it just a few thousands more, lets it get behind the round if that makes any sense. In the past with AR-15's, I I have been able to load a mag, hit the bolt release and have it reliably chamber a round fully into battery. but not with this 308. Are these two issues related? Your thoughts?

I thought we were all done with thevhate and back to talking ammo. Do we really need to resurrect all this again? So about the 150 gr hornady. Are you saying you want to donate it to me. Lol

It's all good brother

Your probably right. Iv never shot lighter stuff like that . Just going by what others have said and that's always a bad idea. Lol. Thanks for the input. Bud

Do what? Who is this and have you lost your mind. What prompted that? This is a legit discussion among the sane. Why are you in it?

Wow. Very exciting round. I like it. Wish it were a bit heavier for my 1/10 twist but anxious to try it

Now here is another twist on it, excuse the pun, Considering the brands and bullet weights above, Im also interested in what you guys feel is the best overall most universal type of ammo or bullet preference. If you could only keep one type on hand, FMJ, Hollow point, BoatTail, armor piercing with steel insert etc etc. would it be? In my AR 556 stuff, I have gone to amost exclusily keeping 62 grain greeen tip on hand. But for the 308/7.62 platform, there is more potential and I'd like to have something that expands in flesh, but also has some of the armor piercing deep penetrating characteristics of the green tip. what are your thoughts, ?

Thanks buddy. That's the kind of help I needed. Much appreciated. Problem solved and ordered.

I am building and AR platform weapon system chambered for 308/7.62. I am using an Aero Precision Lower. IF this lower brand, somehow qualifies this weapon as being an Armalite style/AR-10, then fantastic. You guys can call it whatever you want and Im fine with that. I'm just trying to find a mag release that works. If that means I need an Armalite mag release, do be it, fine, Im all ears. Looking for one now, soon as I locate someone who has this, I will buy it and case closed right?

Im using an Aero lower. Last time I looked, It didn't say Armalite on it. I also ordered and have on hand several Ar-10 LPK's and NONE of the mag catch parts work in this lower. I am NOT attempting to use AR-15 LPK's as you have asserted. Also what do you mean I have been given TWO solutions? I count one and if thats the answer, then thats the answer. And ok lets hear it, what is it that you dont like about the building of an AR-10. Are we all caught up now in terminology, your a purist of just exactly what is up your ass?

Apparently not everyone has. I'm being asked to measure the button. That should be in indication that everyone is not aware of a longer stud requirement on this lower. Im still not sure I fully understand it either How about lets make it simple. Does the Aero 308 Lower receiver require a different and longer mag release stud than other lower receivers? and if so, who ALL make them

Building an AR-10. I have an Aero Precision lower M5. Upon assembling it, I ran into an issue. I am having problems installing the magazine release/catch button assembly. It appears the ones I purchased for it, and others I have on hand, do not fit it well. When I screw in the button, its like the little threaded stud is not long enough. I can only get a few threads in to the button, and Still have sufficient button sticking out to work well. I am very well versed in doing this and I have built numerous AR’s. I also pulled the same catch assembly out of a 308 PSA lower that worked perfectly with it and tried it in the new lower and it too would not work. I can get the stud to screw into the button further to where there is enough of it threaded into the stud for safe engagement but when I do, The button barely projects far enough out of the side t\of the receiver to use. I have several mag catch/release kits in my gun room and measured them all and they are the same length and all work in different platforms except that NONE of the work in This lower I just bought from you. By some chance does this lower take a special or longer stud than other receiver brands do to work?

Thanks guys. Ya... Hunan try it Ya. Hunan try it

i know HOW to mount it. There are many way depending upon mlock, keymod, picatinney, or the funky single swivel ear like on a rem 700. I'm talking about how sturdy it is after its mounted. Sounds like I have my answer. Im just going to mount it and run with it. I think the one thing that is throwing me off a bit is that its a 24" barrel and 16 1/2" keymod and a bit longer than most. The longer they get, the more unsupported length there is and the more flex it seems like

copy that brother. thank you

yea, all true and all good but guys, how do people mount bipods to what and how and where, this is not cool,

So I just bought a handguard for my build, 16 1/2" add its seems very unstable at the front. Not sure how I could ever mount a bipod on it and have it be stable. Does anyone make a filler or doughnut that can slip over the barrel and fill in the gap between the handguard and barrel so its not just hanging unsupported in free air> Heres the one I bought: https://www.cobratac.com/products/cts-ultra-lite-308-series-handguards

im in the midwest no such requirement here buddy

well I am really wanted the lower to be off the grid, I really dont want to buy an FFL lower if I can help it. I bought the upper from Cobratec and it is supposed to be a DPMS compatible upper but they dont sell of make lowers so not sure what I would do anyway

building a rig now with a DPMS upper and 24" barrel for long range precision shooting. Does ANYONE have any experience with these or am I better off using a forged 80% lower, thoughts guys?