Floydieguns

I would like to amend.. accessories - angle grip, broom handle? A widely usable firearm for various people. Sights also; Irons, ACOG?

What is it, then most importantly why? No slamming others, no derailing. Please and thank you. I am looking for other views while preparing for a new addition. Receiver sets, setup configurations and the principal of use behind them. No, I do not have any interest in your fantasy 24" barrel super sniper gas gun. I am certain I have at least one manual bolt long rifle that outperforms in this role. I am talking about real, viable builds. Which parts you would choose and why. No bottom dollar stuff either. Customs are just that. You want cheap, you can buy a shelf dpms pretty rock bottom. For example only - Matrix Arms upper/lower, Criterion hybrid contour barrel 16" with rifle gas. Dwilson bcg, ubr2 buttstock with slash ar15 6.5oz CAR buffer and tubbs 308 action spring. You all get the idea. Again, an ideal build. Not your fantasy top dollar if I were bill gates put on for show. Not your 'super sniper elite'. Real world built rifles that function well. I am interested to see where the general mindset is. Which parts are desired, what is unwanted. Where the 'middle ground' is for a typical rifle that will suit many persons and be considered 'desirable'. Thank you all whom participate Floydie

Appreciated, kind sir. My mistake for providing non-accepted informations. I hope it may be retracted.

That barrel manufacturer is a wee-bit off... Your gas port was drilled at roughly 1/16th of an inch. I would try 3/32 which is 0.09375" as a last resort. 5/64 is a tad too small, being 0.078125". If you have a numbered drill bit set try #46 and work up to #44. If still having issues grab the 3/32. Remember #46 drill bit is smaller than #44. The smaller numbers are bigger bits. Be warned, if it is a chrome lined barrel.. you may be in for a nightmare. Carbide bit can be broken off due to a snag in chrome lining. Will ruin your day. Try HSS, lubricants and steady work pace. That jobber can never take too long. Patience. Glad you found the problem, now it is time for corrective repair. Best luck!

Seems awful low cost. Simply raised concerns. Thank you

How low quality are they? A brace of upper/lower sets "NIB" for $200 on gunbroker.

Anyone found www.ar10.nl ?? Stumbling around, found that. Do you all know any other places for informations on AI sudan/portugal ar10's? Thumbed through the informations there. A drop in three selector trigger group? With a FAL style hammer strut/spring.. a few blueprints if you are able to read them. Unsure how correct that website is. The reinforced portugal receivers.. with a forward assist trigger style charge handle and A1 combat sight. With that grenade, dirty or clean condition gas block. Mmmmm.. that makes me a little giddy inside.

Bwuahahahaha How did you all know.. that I was a two-time short stroke champion? Seems my reputation has preceeded me!!

This stuff works for me. During the break in, my rifles are blowing oil out the charge handle, down through the magazine(literally the magazine drips oil) and well.. everywhere else. Each time I would snake bore, into oil bath the carrier group went. Are you capable of pulling the bolt carrier group into a last round hold open position via charge handle and empty magazine? Seems silly but... Bummer about this rifle being wonky. I know how that goes. Likely so does everyone else here as well!! I use slip-2000 spray can white litheum grease inside the buffer tube. It makes a huge mess when blowing out the vent hole but.. every little placebo affect I know gets thrown when doing break in. People claim it helps with noise reduction. Does it? I never can tell.. nonetheless, it gets greased. Darn messy when removing your action spring too. That ear swab is amazing for dripping oil in just the right places. Get that 'qtip' soaked up, gently roll it against the tuperware edge to prevent accidental mess. Applying pressure with the cotton end to desired location and oil drips out like a sponge. Amazing how a fresh film of oil will hold light parts akin to glue. Can opener was rusty and sat in the oil vat for a while to be freed up.. nothing special there. ;-) One of these guys will help get you running. Best wishes and luck to you, Floydie

It seems, I forgot my gauge pins stop at .250" so.. when correcting other issues I was only able to get a look. My pivot pin is ~.276 to .277".. it was slightly tapered. The receivers are ~.280". Between the taper and the oversize it offers a slight click in fore/aft movement of upper/lower receiver when mated and pinned. Seems my eyes are not soo bad yet, after all. Not going to address that yet. If I keep it - when third barrel is installed, will ream and reanodize. If I sell it.. "NMMFP" (not my mother fornicating problem)!! Looks like a few thousandths oversized in cross-pins will correct this ailment. Thank you gentlemen, good sirs and fine ladies. Floydie

So, just by correcting the gas tube port to be 0.125" as the gas block itself was able to get rifle functioning with 10oz buffer weight. Hold open works. Turned the adjustable gas key screw in until it failed to lock. Using some 150fmj perfecta. Will be able to reduce gas even more, for the 175smk batch load I run. Hope this helps someone else. It was very difficult, focusing pictures of the gasblock vs gastube alignment when everything was pined together. Which is why no picture. Will have to play with everything on a later date. Not had a chance to spin the dillon much lately. Report back on the recoil reduction am able to accomplish with 10oz weight, suppressor, 175smk handloads and cutting gas back even more. Appreciated, kinds sirs.

I knocked the gas tube out to .125" matching the block. The port is still at 0.093". Spun the adjustable gas key setscrew pretty far out. Going to see how it does in a short while. Will have to dig through my endmills, I may have a 0.100" cutter. Really trying to not ream out barrel port to the 7/64 drill bit I have. However.. Appreciated. Report back later.

Pretty much, yup. When using the JP SCS (I forgot that is what my other ar308 had. Thought it was traditional dpms 5oz a2 length. Getting older.. is rough) it ran fine. Rifle was relegated to suppressor use and saw a change of parts. This has all been a quick decision of, 'do I want to sell this and fund another toy?' That found me in a quick scramble of 'I have time to make adjustments this weekend'. Haha.. In additions, a friend came over and tickled my memory on things. I could pull the carbine stock and buffer off a third ar308.. but, eh.. I am going to grab my numbered bits and ream the gas tube out for being more near to 0.120" and line everything off again. Dug through my spare parts surplus.. found a slr heavy duty gas block. That thing takes five set screws. Why I ended up with it.. ?? Funny how things get thrown in a drawer and forgotten. Will report back a few days/weeks later. Baby is almost here. Daughter due in four weeks. Maybe less. Trying to get this year rolling with backlog.

Yes, rifle length. Thought I covered that. My mistake. I am wondering how much bleed-off is occuring due to ill-fit.

Oh no... not STI!! Those things break. The steel 'rails' crack right at the most thin part. The left hand magazine well, where the slide stop is lifted by magazine for last round hold open. Especially when being hammered damn hard. In additions, they are prone to ignition issues because that soft plastic stretches and flexes. Range toy only. With a 'name' from more sponsorship than ferrari to formula. You should wait until the 'EVO 2011' hits market. It is inverted rails. Think cz75 sp01 meets 2011. They are slated to use alloy grips(no ignition issues), tanfoglio large frame magazines(far cheaper than mbx, easier to source and better reliability) and that inverted rail removes the issue of breaking because of how everything is made. Looking out for you, brother man.

Another picture. Ran out of space

Ok, so.. 0.093" gauge pin drops in all the way to bottom of barrel bore. 0.094" will firmly seat in the top of gas port but does not actually protrude into bore of barrel. The YHM gasblock takes a 0.123" gauge pin in the port. The gas tube is slightly offset and takes a 0.107" gauge pin through everything. Hard to picture that. Production date is 01/16 per criterion stamp. " 01/16 RA EX09 " is on barrel. I see a mild amount of carbon stains inside the gasblock. The ~0.750" bore to match barrel. In additions to the carbon shown on the outside of gas tube/block. Pardon the excess loctite that well.. hardened. Now, I have 0.237" from edge of gasblock that adjoins barrel shoulder to the 0.107" gauge pin. I measure 0.251" from edge of barrel shoulder to 0.093" gauge pin in gas port. Seems to be an issue of stackup. You can see the carbon buildup around the gasblock/gas tube junction. Now - with math.. I am close, so long as the clocking is spot on even with this stackup. However.. ideas?

Mrmackc You certainly have a large experience, which is vastly different from mine. I would enjoy chatting about some of these things. I am getting into fit, spec, theory and the pushing of envelopes. The making of leaf springs and the methods of cutting rails. Very intuitive. I like that. Those old springfield receivers trend being more hard than their 'specified' hardness. That 1911 gunsmith in new mexico - 392heminut, what part of N.M.? Thank you all, appreciated Floydie

Well, Kimber is usually nice. They have trendingly good fit and metals. However, they have a bit of reputation for barrel bump. Which means, the lower lug typically does not engage(sometimes at all) the slide stop pin. They will still run. The repairs are usually welding and refitting the barrel. Potentially changing the barrel link. Nothing too terrible. To be disclosed - you are inquiring with someone who would respond, "Well.. for a few dollars more you can buy a JEM receiver, Caspian slide and get a bull barrel..." at which juncture.. I will be honest about one thing. The O.D of a traditional 'National Match' bushing barrel is ~.580. The I.D. is ~.452".. using the standard threads that barrel likely does, will leave a minimal amount of material at root. I personally would use a bull barrel which is ~.700" OD and cut more supportive threads. However, now you have a unique thread for suppressor and.. subsequently a mated suppressor. I will go into this by saying, I actually have a few suppressor designs on paper. It will be a few years before actual prototypes. Faith takes time. One of them is specific to a 45acp. -------- In TL;DR There have been no major reportings of issues with that setup. Kimber is quality, though like all productions of any type - compromises and tolerance stackup may/does occur. Kimber and Springfield were trendingly viewed as superior to Colt for some time. Nowadays - it is a toss up. All are pretty good. Just like anyone experience here will say, it is about the actual unit in hand. A qualified gunsmith would certainly be able to make that one sing. You may need a few new internals. Sear for starters. Kimber sometimes used Mold Injected Metal. I however know very little on which production models or years. As for telling you how to spend them hard earned dollars - Have you ever heard of Porsche, Ferrari or Maserati? HAHAHAHAHA

I am anticipating as much. Was tied up yesterday. About finished with my sidearm, got the action work smoothed out. It is a stainless steel series 80 colt 1911. That and enjoying the seventy degree weather with my horses(equine type) kept me from meeting deadline about speccing out my ar308. Going to do a teardown and inspect later this day. Here is a peep at my 1911. One picture of a single gunsmith improvement that corrected multiple issues(in part) and another of my trigger weight. Yes, that is three pounds and one ounce.

^^^^^^^^^^^^ This is my choice repair!

Well, what is there to share.. Always grew up around firearms. First rifle at eight years old(.22LR), shotgun at ten(410 break open).. was shooting all sorts of small game, living on the family farm - we farmers are dirt poor, land rich. It was called grocery shopping for us. So.. life progressed. Flipped wrenches a while. Got some money, bought a colt 1911. Began shooting single stack in USPSA. Toyed on my own for a while. Found a private internet forum of high-end 1911 smiths. After three years of ooing, aweing, drooling and otherwise begging every tidbit of upper echelon information those fine smiths would share.. hah.. I managed to coax one into being not only my mentor but a very close and dear friend. This friend, after near two years of being poked and pestered finally opened up! Oh lords yes - he offered a barreling course for 1911. At such a low cost and limited seating it just could not be real. Why.. things of this nature when "too good to be true" seldom are. However it was true. Very true. I later suspect it was his way of making another decision on his end. See, I had poked him enough. Once offering to come sweep his floors and do anything I could for learning. I made my reservation fast. Within six hours of his public offer to instruct, I secured not one but two seats. Took my dad. Life was very hectic. I packed in my tools, drug my boxes home. Drove 1200 miles in one day just to make Friday night meet and greet. It was worth it. It just had to be. I kept telling myself just that. Nearly a year later - I confirm, it was worth it. I learned so much about fit and fitment for these handguns. In the process I learned how to discern good handguns from bad guns. Not just the 1911. The hi-power, cz, bren ten, tanfoglio. All reasonably good if proper specs. I also learned why the Gaston Glock is not so good and problematic. Not stepping on toes, but - until the Glock, most every repeating sidearm was similar to the 1911 barrel action. The man who made it set out to differ for sales. He did just that. Their designs have been fraught with poor chambers and lockup. No more on this will be said. That brings everyone about up to current speed. I have parts built plenty of AR's, serviced a variety of rifles and shotguns, barreled and triggered some 1911's. Pictured are a few equipments I use. Yea, I do not have a CNC or measure to 0.00005 like the new age kids.. Swenson, Hoag, any of Pachmayr and a list longer than I care to entertain did not either. The specs are measured at 0.001" for everything I care to do. A little insight from a long ramble, Floydie

Hahahaha, someone who shares my sentiments! I am more or less concerned with, "how long is it taking you all to wear them out? Who has used oversized pins? What are these threaded pins Matrix receivers discuss on their webpage? What methods do you all use for service repair?" Hence, 'contemplated peening and reaming. Or, gauging and oversizing'. I prefer not to weld 7075. I could, but.. =/ Peening and honing would do, just.. the deformations are cosmetically noticed. Even after a cerakote application. Gauging and reaming seems reasonable, in-so-far there is a reasonable supply for appropriately sized pins. While I have the TIG and mill in shop, no lathe yet. Still a year or so out on that. All in all, I greatly appreciate all of you fine gentlemen(and/or gentle-ladies.. gotta be politically correct in this trans/altered/selected gender country nowdays) ---- Floydie

It is a mated billet set from a company that no longer exists. When new in box - everything was very stiff and tight. In actuality the receiver kit was so stiff that it took effort to slide the upper and lower apart when neither pin was pressed in. Claimed to be made of 7075 series alloy. It is a minimal amount of movement. Only enough that under firm force the receiver will 'click' softly. The receiver visually shifts, not the pistol grip or threaded trunnion for receiver extension. I can see the upper sliding rearward, and only rearward. No vertical movement or lateral. Honestly, I had not even noticed until someone asked about it. This concern is minimal. It takes firmly holding the buttpiece to your shoulder while forcibly shoving the float tube forward and rearward. In a quiet room. Tomorrow I will use my mag block, secure the receiver to bench-vice, stick my magnetic base dial indicator on vice, zero and measure total movement. It may be less than .015".. However, with my aging eyes, I highly doubt my capabilities of seeing less than 0.010" of movement. Anodize has worn some, yes - however the question is.. How do your rifles get treated? This one has.. certainly seen the paces. Not unfamiliar to having two-hundred rounds pumped down it in less than ten minutes. It literally has been run. Not a 'bench top' rifle. I have considered sizing the bores with a gauge pin, then finding the next step up in 'over-sized' pins and reaming. There is nothing 'wrong' with the rifle. I put my 5oz weight in it, thing functions flawlessly unsuppressed. Change to 10oz weight, attach suppressor and still works as intended. While yes, I've chased my tail in the 'golden territory' for a well balanced open/suppressed gun with no adjustments.. That is something of it's own nature. A lot of people have gone down that trail. Which - Really is a royal pain. Even when using match loadings. Elevation or large temperature swings can make for finicky rifle. Just simply, I am very picky and due to my prior considerations of "sale" for funding a new toy.. I want it to go with good blessings, when leaving my shop.

How many rounds have you all fired before the takedown pin bores began to elongate? When holding the rifle complete and assembled, the upper walks fore/aft. This check is performed by holding buttstock against a firm surface and pushing/pulling the handtube in same motion as the BCG travels. I have heard about some 'less service friendly' options. JP, Matrix. Possibly others. Anyone have experience with these takedown pins; More importantly, pictures of them? Matrix states something about threaded pins. Unfamiliar with either option. Am aware filler such as cerakote may be used to "bandaid". In additions, reasonable logic shows that peening and honing would be another viable solution. Fully disclosed, I am observing a minimal movement. Measurable between .015-.020", no failures or issues have come from this. Not enough to make an issues. Receivers only walk fore/aft at pins. No lateral or vertical play is found. A comment was made to me the other day. "How much have you shot this? It was not like this before." A friend was fondling and asked. I personally am not concerned, though have tossed the idea of selling one of my rifles and funding a different build. Digging in my surplus of parts, revelations of potentially lowcost build came to mind.