Floydieguns

Roger that, sir. Appreciated. Forever more, I stand corrected keyboard cowboy. I think you are the one with issues. Big issues. Shepp, google shilen or pacnor. Those are barrel blanks. They come in straight cylinder profiles with no chambers cut. Appologies, for upsetting that aggrandizing troglodyte 98 something other. You all keep to this band of misfits. Understand the action? You are using an offset part to accomodate a tube that is too deep internally. Why can you not weld and repair the damaged buffer detent alongside flat filing the required depth off? Oh yes.. just replace parts. I am out fellas. I appreciate those of you whom were truly experienced.

You know.. pinching slides in vices, peening and hard lapping receiver rails used to be 'milspec'. No self-respecting gunsmith has done this since 1980. There is no rant. Nor did I proclaim anything. Please cite this via quote. Real gunsmithing requires fusing and file driving. I appreciate your continued attacks. I never said I was boring a barrel. You have horrible reading abilities. The best thing you have shown me is your ability to part-swap. I have asked multiple times, "why not 'repair' the fault?". I thank you, for validating my points.

First, clarify. Second, do you have a reliable source of forged 80%'s or not? Third, did you not tell me to bore a barrel for correction of misaligned gastube/gasblock? Fourth, did you not get in a disagree about using loctite versus mangling parts? I would appreciate out of mutual respect.. because your rectal cavaties stay out my shop and mine stay out yours.. Be polite, stay on topic.

Machining and real gunsmithing are one thing; Sourcing viable parts are another. Your comment was taken with grin, as should be mine.

I was guessing you implied carburization with the first comment. Yeah, it is costly any way around. Plus, the time for turn around. You have to be doing large numbers. For a small shop, parkerizing or bluing still ring in as most commercially viable. Many reasons why. Cost, consistency in time/result. Outsourcing a large house to do this for me.. not happening. A bottle of propane and a few hours does park/bluing. The cost of propane alone is absorbed in shipping. Chemicals at my end are less than a single batch of nitride salt bath. Plus - you must send the barrels out before drilling gas port and the barrel extension cannot be installed when discussing AR platforms. Due to distortion and the difference of metals. More time, more cost. Just blow this barrel out then I will spin and time you a new one. I will oil soak the parkerized AR barrel for a few days before installing it. Most float tubes will keep it from being scratched off. Even then, it is not that challenging to oil yourself. If parkerized carbon is not going to float - I can do stainless but those blanks I do not stock. Additional costs will be transfered in full to customer.

I found a crop of 0% cerro forge 308 dpms lowers and uppers. That is a bit more than I care to go in to. If a cnc house were offering them in 80%.. I would be buying. That is beyond my tooling and time investment interests. Appreciated. Unsure what this 'carbon treatment' is you speak of. I was looking at pacnor and shilen bull blanks. Going to stick with parkerizing because of cost. Oxide blasting and parkerizing in house will be peanuts. A few places offered 80% lowers with an upper.. but out of stock for the last six months.

What receivers are out there with good review? Any solid 80% receivers with no frills? Which uppers lack forward assist? With standard rail profiles. Prefer forged receivers when possible. My matched billet set is great. However, it has unneeded extras. Looking to do a complete project. Who here makes their own barrels out of blanks? Have a few 308's with the hybrid contour 416r nitride barrel from criterion. They are nice. I am setting up for parkerizing and am selecting 4140-4150 blanks. Have mill and lathe.

A quick look at this 'offset' retaining pin.. i suppose.. gtaw + er70 and a little time with hand files.. I understand the purpose of this item. That many out of spec receivers circulating for such a part? Alternatively, why could a person not take a large bastard file and slowly remove material from the receiver extension tube itself? Even filedriving should prevent buggering threads. A triangle file at most would be needed for pointing the end of tube threads again. An overly long tube could also cause the carrier to crash against lower receiver? *** I skimmed the topic. It seems the recommended part may correct misaligned bore for buffer retainer pin or alternatively an overly long receiver extension tube? In more than twenty rifle builds with small and large frames.. never have had this issue. Perhaps Lady Luck has smiled on me so far. Not trying to insult, naysay or otherwise. Am I understanding the part swap solution?

I got a 1911 that was rollmarked 'gold cup' from colt. Totally learned how not 'national match' their new products were at that time. The shop owner sold it for about $300 over the standard price. That happens to all of us. Keep in mind the supply/demand and markets swell/decline of value.

Bummer, man. Let us know what they tell you is the fault. Maybe it comes back with a new bolt

Potential issue with either the bolt having machine chatter.. or damage happened on trip to the plating facility or the barrel extension could be to blame. The bolt lugs that were damaged/indicating wear meet at the feedramps of barrel extension. I would have gotten the self-drying blue out and cycled it by hand. Seems almost like a stackup issue with the bolt&extension. Nickle boron is like a chrome plating. Granted it may be 'space aged' and 'more spiffy'.. it can have variance in the coating between piece to piece. Alongside machining tolerance. Excessive stackup could be occuring. The gas will make it run. Everything gets hot and expands. The "nib" may not expand fast as barrel extension. When cooling down, could be stiff. However - if it has a faultless warranty.... That stated - never buy for a warranty. Buy for not needing one.

How does the barrel extension look? Just.. curious

Right on. No sweat brotherman. Take your time. I am still in the research phase. All the more info, the better. I thank him and you also. Very much.

**failed to edit** Is the xtr12 upper the same inner diameter as a dpms/sr25 standard? Bolt carrier and buffer lengths also 'generic'/'standard'? Thank you

Really, only a one ounce weight and a 223 lightweight action spring? Robocop, will you post some pictures of this bolt and barrel extension? The shotgun barrel will be very lightweight when compared to a 308barrel. Being proofed for less than 25,000psi and such a large inner diameter.. Only eight rounds? I have already seen people making magazine extensions for ten or more. Multigun performance shops. It is the standard inner diameter of upper receiver as a dpms/sr25? Anything different about the carrier or buffer length?

No. It was a youtube video. Poorly done, by likely a very unexperienced owner. The thumbnail was of the receivers split, on a bench. A review for the model type. Smallville will ar10 shotgun/ar12 search phrases. 18minute video. A few other people are claiming 'combination gun'. Wish I knew more about it. The usas12 sure looks better though. Wish somehow that could be brought back as a sporting shotgun, a3 top and offer t-rails to screw on akin to magpul delta ring handguard. Was curious if anyone knew much about the ar style shotguns. For a multi-gun perspective. Those box magazines make for better weight bias and selection between slug/shot.

Well, the USAS 12 is pretty stiff for a regular joe.. the costs, licenses.. I have seen a little bit about the utas xtr 12. Some people claim dpms308 will interchange with upper/lower swap. Anyone know much about these? Looks like a large-frame lower could be made to work with the fr98/fr99/br99/mka 1919 magazines.. has someone else here explored working an upper into holding one of these? With a saami spec of 11,500 psi.. even more low than a 45acp.. i imagine the 308 bolt carrier could support a very thin bolt/lug profile. However, I have none of the xtr parts at hand to compare. A little curiosity struck.

Yup. Am well aware rubber will compress and add to the rebound. I was told a minimum of .040 and no more than .125". This was during discussion with a fellow armorer whom worked as QA in engineering with a manufacturer. 0.125" being excessive and may cause problems with bcg impacting the receiver extension or charging handle. Was informed .060 to .080 would be more ideal. Anything more than .100" was un-needed. However, he amended that "if it is running fine, with no impact damage anywhere.. i would shoot it. If the rifle is in spec with headspace and is not having unintended striking on the receiver, gas key, charge handle or odd wear inside. Otherwise, it is good." That was years ago. He also said, "you will be replacing bolt stops. They break. Quite often. I have one rifle we use at the shop. It has been through ten barrels and countless small parts." This was when I was just starting. Fellow claimed they had fired over one million rounds in that specific receiver set. Who knows. A world class gunsmith for the 1911 and other handguns told me the same thing about barrel specs. "Is the lockup exact? Is the chamber good? Are you having odd wear? No? Then what the fornicate is wrong with it? You think too much. Stop thinking. Just do. If it runs with no malfunctions, no odd wear, it shoots true. Man, parts break. Slide stops fail. Hell, kimber MIM thumb safeties snap from using them. It is common. Do extractors last forever? It broke - fix it. You know how." This was during a conversation about why Schuemann claims a floating spec beween the barrel and slide during unlock. It was resolved as this - do not worry about it. Are you having that problem? I responded with 'uhx what problem? I do not understand why they claim a need for that tolerance. It is not on the original J.M.Browning blueprint. "EXACTLY!" ****** The end of my two posts is this; Is there actually any need to control this measurement? If you are having no unintended wear/impact and the firearm is functioning.

Where did one produce specifications as to the maximum over-travel beyond bolt-hold open? To start.. clarification on this is as follows: Measurement taken as such: When bringing bolt carrier group/assembly rearward as in recoil/extraction stroke to full rear travel. Total gap between the bolt face and bolt catch abutment face. If above is correct and I am to understand this.. Having more than a 0.040" tolerance will cause bolt catch to break? Was under the impression that in-so-far that the BCG was not impacting the receiver&extension due to overtravel.. that any amount of space would be acceptable between bolt face and bolt catch via measurement as stated above. That the root cause of breaking the bolt catch was typically caused by too much energy when the hardened bolt drove into a typically more low grade piece. Mine mostly appear to be cast, using dpms. However those fine seems may be machining chatter. Which, with the above mentioned about 'energy' of bolt coming forward.. the original plastic buffer of early 1960's colt m16/civy single action sporters was replaced with a weighted buffer. Knowing that armalite/fairchild had their design with a two-piece buffer of alloy... Aftermarket began offering multiple action spring weights and 'more heavy' buffers. Also, adjusting/tuning the gas system came in to play. ******* I simply want to understand which specification you all are using for this? I was unaware of such things. That was typically tossed up as fatigued parts, not enough buffer mass, old action springs.. Now.. all this in; I agree that a longer space between the bolt face and bolt catch when measured as described at top of my comment, in math that extra distance can equate to a more large amount of energy being imparted upon bolt face abutment to bolt catch. Though - is the receiver showing any visual signs of deformation from said catch being hammered very hard? One may sway the other side of this that less distance between the bolt face and catch during full rear travel could cause with weak magazine springs or an over-gassed/under-weighted action a lack of duration for bolt catch to come up completely. I have seen a bolt catch grab the carrier and not the bolt face. I have also had lemon parts before... Not trying to trigger the snowflakes. Just - where did this number come from? It is like Schuemann barrels saying it is a specification of .015" tolerance between the slide and barrel vertically when the barrel is in bed and slide travels rearward during recoil/extraction. Browning never specified this. Colt never amended this. Schuemann spat this out and some people claim it is valid.

https://www.ar15.com/forums/AR-15/Non-Staking-Endplate-Castle-nut-options/118-721827/ They covered it all. Seems it is not such an issue. Thank you for telling us the us army armorer standard though. It is very important to remain 1973 milspec. Do you still use A1 components on all of your rifles? In all politeness, I am aware of that. However most folks now use more adapted endplates and prefer the ability to interchange their parts as.. none of you likely have only one. Everyone here admires the parts bin modularity. For that reason alone, liberal amounts of locking compound and firm snugging is all you need.

Not much of a restriction Jtallen83. I said no rock bottom and no supersniperelite. Leaves plenty of room. Honestly.. I was thinking a good forged receiver set with the 16" bbl and a form1 suppressor permanently mounted. Iron sights and a chest rig full of 135 sierra match king batch loads off the Dillon. A wad of ramshot tac squishes to max box length. 135gr jhp @ 2900fps. 25/300 zero on the sights.

Jtallen83 you are a finely tuned scale. The original post never classified 'hunting rifle'. I acknowledge that yes, in hunting use less weight is better. Defeats the purpose of an automatic rifle. Most bolt rifles have integral magazine wells which retain 2-3 follow up shots. Now, that said - there has been the quadriplegic chairs and automated systems.. which is a whole new subject. Ask anyone who has used a LW(aluminum) commander 1911, comparing it to a steel receiver. There is a noticed difference in recoil. Washguy she has triple D's. The only time I have doubles is when she lays them on me. ;-) you guys are cute.

You would deal with added complications of a stake which must be voided to effectively remove said extension over a more direct and simple aproach? Let me ask from another angle.. have you used any ignition-lock components with setscrews? Lot of aerospace R&D into that anaerobic compound. There are more ways than one to skin a cat. Yes, I agree - staking will be a rapid and viable solution. Though, I know how staked threads can quickly become damaged threads. Ask me about an expensive learning curve when I once thought just turning the nut to a high-dollar import half-shaft was proper for removal... my mistake set me back $800 from my own pocket. One last aspect - know that I can still reuse all those parts and they are not ugly. Gas key setscrews - yup. Staked. They are never coming out. Receiver extension.. this is a modular rifle.

Now, you mean the stop nut to the carbine receiver extension? Spin counter-clockwise by hand. Use some 222ms loctite or equivalent vibratite/other manufacturer of thread locker. Something easily removed. Get a two pound hammer and a flat punch. Put your least favorite pieces of wood in a vice. Gently pinch the rifle around the receivers. Just tight enough to keep it from moving. Do not lean on the vice and destroy the rifle. I would say two scraps of 2x4 behind the ejection port. The intent of the vice is to be your 'helper'. Treat your rifle like your favorite lady. She does not like being squeezed. Tap the nut slightly more tight. An extra 1/10" to 1/8" turn beyond 'snug'. Those things rattle free quite often. Now, if you mean the barrel nut.. am going to recommend using an appropriate wrench. Hopefully you have a thick hide.. I cannot make heads nor tails of what everyone else is responding with. Best luck.

One may alternatively state for less money and more exertion.. two pounds more may be less noticed, if the wielder of said battle rifle were to begin doing body weight squats, lunges and lifting ten pound dumbbells. Magwa, how does your rifle recoil? The original AI ar10 was like 8-9lbs and considered very light when compared by the standard of m14 and FAL. One last.. 'pointed poke' would be, how are the lightweight receivers and other components holding up? The best mention of the thread I saw was 50/50 for the titanium muzzle device or the feather weight float tube. My personal experience is weight bias or 'balance' versus 'scale weight'. Of course, my wife complains about her 36DDD bra's.. so weight is a perspective. =D