CAVU

No problem here with the duplicate posts. It just re-enforced your point 😃. The cost of most of this equipment is automatically slowing me down. It will be months before I can acquire/afford all the necessary equipment. I don’t even have a barrel yet. I’m thinking Bartlein 24” blank finished by Craddock Precision with +2 gas port and head-spaced bolt. JP Rifle FMOS. I already have an Aero upper, KE Arms lower, ATC trigger, A2 rifle extension, Magpul PRS buttstock and generic LPK. That it. There’s still a long way to go but I’m having fun.

Wet, in Vancouver. I’m based at PDX. I have friends over the Cascades with space to shoot but I know if I have to drive hours to shoot I’ll never get enough range time to have half a chance at even getting mediocre at this sport. I’ve just started looking so I might find a sweet spot close. It’s a little humorous; as I approach PDX I’m spending a little more time looking down for good spots to potentially shoot. I just landed in Phoenix and will depart for PDX in a hour and dam-it it will be dark and I can’t do any airborne scouting.

I love it! That’s certainly good enough for me. I’m starting to realize that finding a place to shoot long range around here could be one of the most difficult aspects of this type of shooting.

Thanks. I was just thinking “ he’s has a good idea; I should get training “. Then wondering where the heck does a person go for this type of training. Your links were timely. I’m up here in the Great Northwest (Washington) and the Arizona location would be fine.

As you can imagine annual re-current ground training has been a requirement during my career. I’m excited to mix it up and attend formal classroom training in Long Range Shooting. A couple grand for the scope, a couple more for the spotting scope, and around 1.5K for the barrel, AGB, BCG etc. shoot it to copper equilibrium then off to school somewhere. I can hardly wait.

Thank you for the thread. I unfortunately fall in to the bookworm category for now. I’ve watched Rex’s entire Sniper 101 series...twice. My rifle won’t be finished for a while but I’m trying to get prepared as much as possible. It’s been enjoyable learning from all of you. 98Z5V doesn’t need to worry about me walking onto the range a critiquing anyone. My 39 years of commercial flying, instructing and administrating check-rides has exposed me to plenty of bookworms. I’m the greenhorn now.

Thank you Matt. Understood. I’m thinking it wouldn’t hurt to have the best optical quality at the range I’m hoping to get proficient at. I sure won’t have the scope to use as an excuse! This correspondence is literally the first time I’ve ever done anything like this. I’m learning that it’s difficult expressing concepts especially semi-technical subjects. Everyone’s patience and advice is appreciated.

Your scenario is exactly what I would expect. I would then dial the 29.3 MOA (50.4 available) correction to zero at 100 yds. This should place the center of the erector tube approximately half way (58%) out from the center of the optics lens. Now zeroed at 100 yds. I calculate for a 1000 yds. (~30 MOA) and dial in; moving the reticle/erector tube to the center of the scope tube allowing the long range shots to be view through the center of the optics lens. I think😟 p.s. Thanks for the link mrmackc I’m getting a little better every day.

I read that having a scope reticle adjusted to at or close to it’s limit is not the optimum setup from a clarity and distortion perspective. I have no idea if it is true or not. That is the genesis to all these questions of mine. I appreciate the humor.

I don’t think I’ve done a very good job of explaining my objective. More importantly I’m not sure if this should even be an objective of mine. Sorry. In a nutshell; Mount the scope and zero at 100 yds. Use a mount with a tilt as close to my 1000 yd drop calculation (10.2 mils) as possible. The desired result: 4 mils adjustment remaining after 100 yd. zero in one direction. 3.8 mils adjustment remaining after the 1000 yd. adjustment in the other direction. Erector tube centered for the 1,000 meter target providing optimal scope clarity (an attempt to get the most from a fixed 10x scope). Scope: US Optics FDN-FX10, 28 mil total elevation adjustment. I do like the LaRue LT-158 mount. Thank you 98Z5V. I’ve listened to all of you and am thinking “just go buy something and start shooting” I think part of my reluctance in all this is due to the variety of DPMS gotcha’s a first time builder is warned about. Thanks for helping a beginner whose never even looked at a 1,000 meter target let alone shot at one... Yet!

I like it!. I’ll have to check the dimensions of the scope turret mechanism. The website says not compatible with the USO T-PAL scope but I’m interested in the USO FX10 and it may fit. The tritium illuminated anti-cant bubble is neat. Thanks for the info.

Duly noted. The 10 mil mount should give me a few mils of adjustment above the zero range (100 yds) and on the other side past the transonic range (1350m). Do you think I’m wise to drop several hundred dollars on a 10 mil canted mount (Spuhr, Desert Tactical, LaRue etc) then develop my calc forms and know I’ll have some leeway for environmental conditions and different loads etc. I’m anticipating 2K for the scope and around $300 for the mount and wanted to make sure I’m understanding this “stuff “ correctly. I appreciate your help.

My objective is to be viewing through the center of the optics glass lenses at 1000 meters. I would then adjust down 10.4 mils for a 100 yd. zero and set the zero-stop there. The 10 mil canted mount would position the reticle in the best location for optical quality at the 1000 meter range allowing for both a 100 yd. zero and a 1300 meter (transonic) adjustment leaving a few mils adjustment available on both sides. Thanks to both of you for the help. I’m learning this all for the first time.

The US Optics specs. for the FDN FX10 scope list a total elevation travel of 100.8 MOA. The JBM ballistics calculator says at 1000 yds. the Hornady 6.5CM,147 gr. ELD cartridge would require 30 MOA drop adjustment from a 100 yd. zero. I’m thinking I should use a 30 MOA canted scope mount to position the reticle in the center of the optics glass at 1000 yds. while still allowing a 100 yd zero. Before I potentially make an expensive mistake I felt I should seek some advice. I’m all ears. Thanks.