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About Lr-308FUn

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  1. I am hoping you know what I mean about timing a muzzle brake, I just saw this above response from you, and when timing a muzzle device like the one I was installing (see pic) you have to align the muzzle device correctly. The holes in the top of the brake (as shown in pic with yellow circle indicating what holes) have to face upwards even with the gas block for the brake to function correctly. I wasn't installing a standard A2 flash hider on this 308 AR. It was the Strike Industries J-comp gen 2. This is what I meant about timing the brake, because after hand tightening the the wholes where on the bottom of the barrel not facing upwards, so I tighten and loosen the brake to slowly orientate the muzzle device, when doing this that barrel extension came loose.
  2. I was just stating that we all make mistakes and that most of us have heard this platform called a AR-10 for decades and I can see how people get the incorrect terminology when it comes to this platform. I wasn't trying to start any disagreement. Just that we are all human, and its human nature if we hear something called something for a long duration of time it then becomes that object even though one might understand that their is a difference. I did also state that I am new to this platform, my gunsmithing was more in the 1911 and older firearms and shotguns and the AR-15 as well, but not the 308 AR/L-r308 or the AR-10. That is why I came to this forum about the AR-10/308 AR/LR-308 platforms to learn the correct way to do this any why their has been so many differences between my first build a few years ago compared to this one. I have been reading the heck out of all the postings I can on headspace, BCGs and buffer and springs when using the carbine buffer tube. I went with a few of the recommendations given by most on this forum and thank you so much for all your answers to my questions.
  3. I agree with you, at times I mess up and call my M5 build a Ar-10 knowing that it isn't a AR 10 but an Lr-308/303 AR. I will admit I know more about the 1911, AR15, and old combloc and other older WW II firearm than I know about the AR-10/308 AR platforms. This is new to me and I am learning. I have heard them called AR10s for decades and now since building my 2nd 308 AR with the Aero Precision parts it has been a huge learning experience for me.
  4. Okay, I am new to this 308 AR builds, I did one about 2 years ago and didn't have any of these issues. I will check it with the other BCG I am getting tomorrow and see if its the same or perhaps right on. I am thinking with what you provided that this BCG might be AR10 spec instead of 308 AR. It is a tight fit to get it to lock up on the no go gauge, I do have the extractor and ejector removed. I had to take the barrel back off cause I forgot to headspace before barrel before assembly.
  5. Yeah I did a search and come up with nothing on the subject that is why I posted an new thread, unless I didn't search for the correct topic.
  6. Hello, I just got my new BA 16" barrel government profile today, and I went to check headspace, with the bolt extractor and ejector removed. I tried the go gauge and the bolt would turn and lock up, a bit sloppy though. Then on the No-go gauge it will at first not close but with a bit of wobbling the bolt it will then lock in tightly and slightly rotate as well. I am wondering if anyone has the dimensions of the LR-308, DPMS profile bolt. I am thinking that this bolt is out of spec or the wrong profile, not DPMS. Here are some pics of the headspace gauges that I purchased and also of the bolt. I marked A. for bolt face depth, B. for locking lug width, C. for locking lug length. Would like all the dimensions of a DPMS profile bolt please if anyone has them. Thank you. I am still thinking this BCGs bolt is out of spec, or isn't the correct profile for this barrel, 16" .308 TACTICAL GOVERNMENT MIDLENGTH AR 308 BARREL, MODERN SERIES.
  7. Not zero tolerance guy, just a measure twice guy, make sure the steps are done correctly. I am sure they will take care of it. Its just frustrating that now I have to deal with taking the time to ship the barrel back, getting a new barrel etc. Also, when it comes to firearm industry I except more higher attention to detail, but yes lemons happen.
  8. I agree with you that they are a good barrel company but my issue is that in the firearms industry they need to stop, slow down and get the job done correctly. I understand that things happen and lemons get passed.
  9. I agree I could fix but I really don't have the equipment to torque that barrel extension on correctly. So I am going to let BA handle the situation.
  10. It happened when timing the muzzle brake, I am sure you know what that is. I always tighten the brake and back off then tighten and back off, when doing this, the barrel suddenly started to rotate, that's when I noticed that the barrel extension came loose. I know this isn't suppose to happen, you can clearly see in those pics, which I took right after I took off the barrel nut. The barrel extension has no lock-tight or anything on it. The threads where oily, I have never had this happen before out of countless upper builds. I am just sharing this, to show that quality has really slacked here lately on firearm parts. This supposed to be a good barrel company. Again trust me, it did happen when I was timing the muzzle brake, not making this poop up. I also always use aero-shell barrel nut grease on all my threads even the muzzle when installing the brake.
  11. I have been building ARs for decades now and I have never seen this before. Just look at the pics they tell the whole story. The barrel extension unscrewed for the barrel when timing the muzzle brake. This is a Ballistic Advantage 16" .308 TACTICAL GOVERNMENT MIDLENGTH AR 308 BARREL, MODERN SERIES barrel. I have contacted the place where I purchased this from and BA also. I thought I should share this. I know for a fact that this isn't suppose to happen.
  12. I have done research on all the information you provide, thank you again and I found the system that I am going with, I will use the Aero M5 kit but modify it when needed with the Armalite heavy buffer and spring. I also have a left over Springco spring from the first build that I can use with that Armalite buffer. If this doesn't work the Aero M5 kit will be removed and the Aramlite buffer kit will be installed, since I order that one last night as well when I discovered that information in the postings on this forum. Thank you again, and yes I am a gunsmith that is more familiar with older firearms and pistols. When learning one has to learn to crawl before one walks. I thank everyone for all the information and I will post results on here of this current build. I have also discovered that some of those post covering this subject were several years old, and most of the products that were mentioned in those postings are no longer available, or at least with my searching I couldn't find any in-stock anywhere. Thank you have a great day.
  13. Okay, sure I have read that posting you gave me like 3 times now and I am not sure how we got on the wrong page. I am just going to build it like I did the first one which after some tweaking ran like a champ. I have several different buffer tubes and buffers to try in this new build and I am sure I will figure it out just like the first build. I get what your saying the 3.8oz buffer wasn't designed to run in the AR 10 pattern of rifles, I get that the correct weight should be 5.4oz. I don't even use a stand buffer in my AR15 builds I use mostly the Spikes T2 buffer in all my AR 15 builds with the standard carbine spring and they run at an ejection pattern of 3-4 o'clock. Now since I am new at the Ar10 platform is the ejection pattern the same for it as the AR15, I was educated that with the AR15 in 5.56 NATO the ejection should be around that 3-4 O'clock ejection, is that the same for the AR10? I currently have looked at this setup as well for this current build KYNSHOT - Hydraulic Recoil Buffer for AR-10 with collapsible stock (3.25"). I am also considering the Tubb buffer spring also. I have noticed that all current buffers for the Ar 10 rifle seem to be that 3.8oz, and most keep stating to get that Tubb buffer spring.
  14. I am a certified gunsmith but took most of my training in just that 1911s, older firearms as well. I have always been more into custom bolt action and older style firearms like lever actions, shotguns, and the AK 47 rifles. While taking school one course got me into the AR pattern rifles, and I have built several Ar15s but now I am learning on my own since I want to start putting more modern firearm knowledge like the AR-10 platform of rifles, and yes I agree that they won't change the industry stand, I want to come up with a better standard and start possibly in the future making my own designed AR-10 rifles along with 1911s and other platforms as well. I looked up that Tubb CWS system on Brownell's and Midway USA and they have been discontinued. I have even tried his website and he no longer sells the Tubb CWS system. That is why I asked what is currently on the market today for these rifles. All that is on his website are AR10 buffer springs. I also agree that I am not Mr. Stoner or John Moses Browning or any other just upcoming gunsmith with ideas and that is what started the firearms industry we have today Ideas. My instructors are at this time no longer available since I have been graduated for about 2 years now. This is why I decided to start another Ar10, cause the AR15 platform of rifles in all its glorious calibers got boring.
  15. Also, what would you recommend on my current build, I read that posting and saw several different buffer types, I would like to keep the adjustable stock setup. Thanks for all your advice.
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