Vettepilot

I have a question. It just seems crazy how expensive headspace Go, No-Go, and Field gauges are, and sometimes they are even hard to find. 35 to 50 bucks seems to be the going rate, which to this poor boy, is nuts! Now I know this is a really "redneck", "bubba" idea, but I'll stick my neck out and pose the question anyway. Why couldn't you take a new brass case for whatever caliber/gun you are working with, and fill it with epoxy so that it is solid and can not deform. (Couldn't crush or change the shoulder datum.) Then glue a piece of brass shim stock or steel feeler gauge as mentioned by the original poster onto the base of the brass, of the appropriate thickness. Presto; a $1.98 No-Go gauge. Right? No? Kindly comments appreciated.... Vettepilot

Nice! Thanks! Sure wish I had DRO on this old Bridgeport. Vettepilot

Ok, so I got my Raptor Ambidextrous charging handle, and MAN does it make a difference. I am super happy with the purchase, and now I can easily charge the gun one handed with no struggling to get ahold of the handle. Way cool! I got it from 3CR Tactical for only 28 bucks with pretty quick shipping. (I've seen it elsewhere for as much as 100 bucks....) Ok, another question. I have a lathe and a good mill. Which jigs would you guys recommend for both AR 15 and AR 308 80% lower finishing, using of course the mill instead of a drill press or router? I know, with a mill you don't really need jigs, but for the ease of layout and "warm fuzzy feeling" that the layout is perfect, I can (hopefully) justify the cost of going ahead and buying the jig(s). Thanks! Vettepilot

Ok, good to know I'm on the right track. Thanks! vettepilot

Ok, will do. Thanks. Vettepilot

Oh cool! You just made my day! THANKS! Well, while I'm here... I am a big strong guy, but this AR seems awfully hard to charge. My scope sits long and low over the charging handle, and with my big hands, I can't get a good grasp on both hooks of the handle. Charging it by just grabbing the left side to unlatch and charge with my weaker left hand is pretty tough. Just needing break in?? (I have a larger handled ambidextrous charging handle on order...) Thanks again, Vettepilot

Ok, never owned, used, nor shot an AR before, though I am well versed and accomplished with other guns. I just bought a PSA PA308. I bought an assembled upper in 308 A2 style, and a bit later an assembled lower, also in A2 flavor. (Hey, I like the nostalgic look.) When disassembling the rifle for the initial cleaning, lubrication, and inspection, I of course disassembled the bolt carrier, but not the extractor parts. The cam pin was a little fidgety to get out, as expected from my studies, but it did finally come out with no force required. Now, my understanding is that you install the cam pin with the flat aligned with the gas key, (of course), and then rotate it 90 degrees so that the flats of the pin are crossways to the bolt, and the cam pin could not try to come out, nor become jammed. Therein lies my problem and question.... on mine, if I rotate the cam pin 90 degrees, then the firing pin won't go back in. The ONLY way the firing pin will go back into place is if the flats of the cam pin stay oriented fore and aft, as you place them for disassembly. Is my cam pin bored wrong for the firing pin, or am I missing something here? Thanks a bunch for any help, Vettepilot