Harveyshot

How do you PM in this forum? For private messaging?

Here's an image from the USPS web site. I'll sell it for $14.00

Ok, I’ll check tomorrow. Out to dinner at the moment. The shipping will probably be high because I’ll ship it in OP’s original box to protect it. The box is bulky. About 16x6x6.

To be fair, OP now has them for $15.99. https://www.opticsplanet.com/wilson-combat-rifle-length-gas-tube.html

Whomever wants it, let me know how this works and we'll get it done. Just to be on the safe side, here is the tube.

I think they're only about $18 at OpticsPlanet.com (plus shipping if you don't order $49 worth of stuff.) Now that I mentioned that, I think if I send it back they'll be adding shipping charges to that previous order of mine since the gas tube return will lower the total to under $49. Sheesh. What do you have in mind?

Thank you, that's what I figured. I confused AR-10 with LR-308 when I ordered it. It's still within OpticsPlanet's free return shipping window so back it goes since I doubt I'll ever need it. This is the second and last AR I'll build (maybe). Back to waiting.

I'm building an LR-308 and just when I thought I had all the parts and was ready to assemble, the gas tube is too long. The barrel is a 20" CBC with a rifle length gas port. The gas tube is Wilson Combat, rifle length. Mercury BCG. When the block and tube are in place on the barrel, the gas key bottoms out on the tube. I've read the rifle length gas tube should be 15 1/8" - 15 1/4". This one is 15 1/2". The question is: can the gas tube be cut? I know the end of the tube is beveled for easier insertion into the gas key (I'm guessing but seems logical) but is it necessary? This build has been going on for months and I'm always waiting for parts in the mail that seems to take forever these days. Hopefully I've given you enough info to answer the question.

I dipped the paperclip in the JB and inserted it several times to insure there was enough JB in the hole.

Update: the JB Weld trick did it! I was sure it wouldn't work because simple little fixes like this usually don't work for me. Thanks again, Shooterrex and thanks to all that replied. Time to get the right part and try again.

Hmmm, never considered the necessity of the bolt catch. It is helpful, though. As for the rocking, the bcr doesn’t seem to have the same range of motion that the one on my ar-15 has. The 308 barely moves.

Thanks everyone for all the input. I think I'll try the JB Weld suggestion and if that fails, I'll use the Dremel and try to cut the bolt catch out. As you can see, there is no way to drill out the blind side of the hole without a lot of damage. At least I'll know what to look for if I buy another one. Thanks again. I'll report back on the results.

I don't know if this forum is for extreme beginners with Polymer 80 .308 80% lowers but here goes: I finished the lower and installed the trigger group and mag release that those parts seem to work well. But when installing the bolt catch release (bcr), all went to hell. It was part of Aero Precision's LPK. I thought I had researched things well but didn't really look at the bcr. The LPK had a roll pin for the release and I (without thinking) used it not noticing it was a blind pin hole. So now, the bcr doesn't work. I have to manually move it up and down, it's too tight for the spring to function. I have searched and found out there probably should be a 1/16" set screw type pin that goes into the hole. And to my embarrassment, I noticed the threads in the hole before inserting the roll pin but I thought the LPK people knew what they were doing. Now the problem is to get that roll pin out which I think is just about impossible without destroying the lower. But it's useless as is if I can't get it out. Is there any hope? Do I just buy another? I gather some people don't like the 80% lowers but I'm retired and like doing these kind of things to stay busy. Six years ago I did an AR-15 aluminum 80% lower from 80% Arms and it was definitely easier. Thanks for any advice. Phil