LevelHead

I've got an aircraft mechanic buddy telling me I need to ream that hole smooth and while I can certainly see how that's better, it seems to me that it's going to smooth out after a couple hundred rounds anyway. Thoughts on that? I'm inclined to let it be, mostly because the rifle's all back together now, but if you guys are out there going, "Holy fornicate - you didn't ream the hole!" then I'll do what I gotta do.

It is done. Now I just need to get my new buffer kits.

I've got a #43 and a #42, so I can do .089" or .0935". I don't have the means to drill at .090". I'm open to getting whatever I need, though. Is .0935" too big?

Thanks. Yeah, I know they like to run wet. especially during break-in.

Got my pin gage set. I measure the gas port at .088"

It's best with any troubleshooting to only change one thing at a time. I'll just add it to the troubleshooting steps I'll be doing at the next range trip. First test is the new buffer extension/buffer/spring, all of which should arrive tomorrow.

Pic of brass from last range session. Bolt face was covered with brass shavings, too. This strikes me as a “the gas system is probably fucked up so lets over-compensate by stiffening the extractor” kind of “solution”. Any reason I shouldn’t remove the rings and second spring and beef them up one step at a time if needed?

While disassembling the extractor I was greeted with two springs and two o-rings. That seems a bit excessive to me but It’s been decades since ai’ve detail stripped an AR10. What say you?

That's crazy. How does a company with a reputation like Wilson Combat put out something so reliant on proper tolerance that doesn't work right out of the box - when mated with the same company's recommended parts! Bonkers. Knowing that AR10s can be finicky I bought all the parts from one "good" vender in the hopes that precisely this kind of thing would not happen.

Roger that. Armalite kit is out of stock at Armalite so bought two from EuroOptic. Bought myself an M1 Pin Gage set which will be here Tuesday.

Buffer spring is 11" long and has 26 coils (assuming I counted the end coils right) Buffer is 3.845oz Gas tube is rifle length. Happy to measure something more specific. I don't have pin gauges or numbered drill bits. Best i've got is digital calipers at the moment.

Thanks. I'm not terribly worried. I'd be more annoyed that a barrel from a company like Wilson Combat would be out of spec. I've seen some other threads where that's been the issue. I've got all the parts for making a 16" lightweight rifle on the way, too, so anything learned will be applied there. Knowledge is always valuable.

Thanks!

Thanks! Barrel: https://shopwilsoncombat.com/BARREL-308-WINCHESTER-SUPER-SNIPER-18-FLUTED-STAINLESS-GLASS-BEAD-1-10/productinfo/TR-308SSRG18FT10/ Receiver extension/buffer: https://shopwilsoncombat.com/SUPER-STOC-RETRO-FIT-KIT-AR10/productinfo/TR-SUPERSTOC-K-10/ Pic of the gas tube attached:

Hello all! Glad there's a place like this on the 'net! Let me cut to the chase, if I may. 🙂 My history: AR owner for 25 years, have owned and built many, though this is my first upper build. I'm a very methodical "measure 10 times cut once" kind of guy. Used to own two Armalite AR10(T)s and loved them so wanted to reclaim my .308 AR glory. I built a Wilson Combat (WC) AR10 using all WC parts with the only exceptions being the charging handle (WC was out of stock) and the trigger since I like and had a LaRue MBT-2S on-hand. AR10s can be challenging, so I built with parts from the same source to minimize issues. Parts List: WC .308 Lower Billet (Armor Tuff black) WC .308 Upper Billet (Armor Tuff black) [not lightweight] WC .308 18" Super Sniper barrel (Armor Tuff black) WC Thread protector (rockset in place) WC Rifle Length gas tube as spec'd for the barrel WC .875 low profile non-adjustable gas block as recommended on the barrel page WC Lower parts kit WC Super-Stoc Retro-Fit AR10 Buffer kit (Carbine-length which is the only one they sell) WC AR10 14.6 Handguard and WC pistol Grip LaRue MBT-2S trigger Radian Raptor .308 Charging Handle Ammo used for its maiden voyage was Federal Gold Match .308 168gr. The rifle fires without exploding, so that's a plus. 🙂 Symptoms: It's short-stroking Empty shells are just kind of dribbling out instead of being thrown It's not feeding a second round It will not lock back on an empty mag when firing It WILL lock back if I manually charge it, and charging is smooth as expected The brass is all scratched up, both on the rim and on the side There are brass shavings all over the bolt face The Radian charging handle has been worn to the metal on its ridges (don't think this is related to firing given how it works) Troubleshooting I've done: Manually cycling the action (charging) with a snap cap causes the snap cap to properly eject across the room and in the right direction Checked gas key alignment (BCG minus the bolt slides easily onto the gas tube) Checked the gas rings (BCG does not drop from its own weight if put on the table bolt-down) Can blow air through the barrel with the chamber closed off and air moves through the gas tube Troubleshooting I have not yet done: Remove the gas block and check for burs Scope the barrel and check gas port alignment What I think is happening, and I'm happy to be proven wrong: In my mind, after first going right to under-gas, I think it might be over-gassed which might be causing the bolt-carrier to not be able to pull the empty shell out of the chamber in a timely fashion since it's trying to do so while the case is still pushed against the cylinder wall during extraction. This could explain the scratching on the side of the shells as well as the shavings due to the extractor claw spinning on the case while the case is resisting extraction. That about covers it. Thoughts? Other suggested troubleshooting steps? Thanks!