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Gregrachelle

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Everything posted by Gregrachelle

  1. haha. forgot to mention, the optic is the burris eliminator 3 4x-16x 50mm laser rangefinder ballistics scope, with windage.
  2. Just an update. I posted earlier (i think in august). I finished my AR10 build. Mega Ma-TEN match set, JP 20in Barrel with heat sync and matching bolt. JP silent capture spring. JP muzzle brake, Battle Arms ambi selector, and the ATC trigger. The trigger is awesome. I have some friends with some pretty high end triggers. theirs are nice but..... I have not found one that i like as much as mine. Crisp, thin, short reset, clean, practically 0 pull. I highly reccomend it.
  3. Nightforce doesn't make a ffp in that magnification, and Leupold doesn't have it illuminated. Both are offering less option for more money.
  4. Vortex Razor Hd 5-20x50 ffp, illuminated, zero stop, 35mm tube SWFA SS 5-20x50 ffp, illuminated, 30mm tube Bushnell 6-24x50 ffp, illuminated, 30mm or bushnell 3.5x21x50 ffp, illuminated, 34mm tube These are the main scopes i have been looking into. What i am looking for and anyone who is able to give me a actual comparison that they have done or been able to do as to function, quality, ease of use, and able to say which one they liked, and for what reason. If you have a scope that you feel is better than all of these, and have been able to actually compare it to one of these, then i would appreciate your input or suggestion. These are the perimeters: under $2500 FFP ILLUMINATED PARALLAX around the 5-20x50 zoom/lens size or grater 30mm tube or grater and looks super sweet :) Im building a MEGA MA-TEN with JP 20" barrel, heat sink, jp bolt and carrier, JP silent capture buffer spring assembly, ATC trigger and Battle Arms safety selector, KNS ant rotational pins, etc. etc, and am about to purchase a scope. from what i can see, any one would most likely be happy with any one of these, however, just want some input before i drop the hammer. thanks <munch>
  5. the more likes the better the discount. here is the thread http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3255387&nt=4&page=1 or here is the link to facebook to like them. http://www.facebook.com/pages/SWFAcom/20965581078 if anyone is interested.
  6. haha. please don't shoot. i promise ill do better next time. American trigger also called me with a follow up to make sure everything was ok. they are a top notch company. He explained how their trigger is made and why they did it the way they did. The main difference with the safety function is.... when you turn to safe mode, and the flat part of the cam is now rotating away from the trigger tail..... the round part is supposed to engage the tail of the trigger. Two things happen, 1 you feel increased resistance, this is due to the round part of the cam actually pushing on the trigger tail which is loaded by spring tension, 2 as the video shows, it actually separates the hammer from the sear. I think this is a great feature, from what i can see it would be near impossible to get the gun to fire, and there is absolutely no trigger movement due to the tail having positive pressure applied by the safety cam. Modifications. So a few things were mentioned about what the instructions say in regards to removing material to make the trigger work better with the safety. I will try to explain the best i can. The problem i had, was that in fire mode i did not have enough movement AT and AFTER the point the hammer sear released the hammer. HOWEVER when put into safe mode, the engagement of the trigger tail begin pushed down and the sear being disengaged from the hammer was working perfectly. i just want everyone to realize that if i was to removed material from the trigger tail, it may have fixed the problem of trigger pull but would have caused a problem with the gun being put into safe mode. Suggestion. when installing this trigger with the safety, first step should be to make sure the sear will disengage properly when being put into safe mode. If this works then you know you have the right size diameter of safety cam (per ATC there are several different sizes out there depending on manufacture of safety) Second would be to test the trigger to see when the sear releases in relation to when you can't pull the trigger any more. If you have the problem i had you simply need a safety with a taller notch, or more material removed from the flat section of the safety. Also, when asking ATC about removing material from the trigger to accommodate different a "out of spec" safety, the concern i have heard was that you will go through the work hardened outer layer, they said "our triggers are "through hardened" which mean hard all the way through. That is top grade material guys. ATC truly built an incredible piece and didn't cut any corners on material thats for sure, and the service has been great also from everyone. Hope this helps <munch>
  7. Thanks Roger, I just received it, installed it, and problem solved <thumbsup>. This was a combination of me not knowing enough about the product and understanding that it functions a little different than other trigger/safety products. Everything was actually functioning the way it should EXCEPT when in fire position the tolerances were too tight between the trigger tang, and the cut out in the safety cam shaft. he is a video i found that explains proper installation and function of this assembly. It should help clear up and confusion in the future http://youtu.be/E5-ZrpiT7R4
  8. i ordered mine from midway. practically came next day. So for further discovery. checked some more things tonight. i think that the clearance while in fire mode is my only issue. When moving the selector to safe, it actually pushes down on the tail or tang of the trigger which causes a slight separation of the hammer and primary catch. Since you are able to over cock the trigger by hand i don't see this causing any harm. Here is another link illustrating this imschur, the KNS pins are .154 just like the factory pins. I called and confirmed with ATC before purchasing, they assured me it would be fine, and that there was no need to remove their pin clips from the housing, just push the KNS pins right past them. I have had both in the system and i have to same issue with both. I talked to Roger from Battle Arms today, He was a great help and very informative. He will be sending me a replacement selector shaft with a bit more tolerance to try out. i can't wait to use it!!
  9. I appreciate the quick reply guys... I will make some more measurements tonight to see exactly where things should be on my particular build. By the way, i love the ATC trigger. by buddy was comparing it to a jewl trigger that he has and he couldn't believe how short the reset is on the ATC. The Battle Arms ambi leavers are top notch! and hope to be able to use them on this build, But if i am un able..... does anyone have experience with a safety lever that works on a mega maten lower and an ATC trigger? Also on a side note. does anyone have other phone numbers to contact American Trigger company??? 1 800 722 8462 which is the pact number says its been dialed incorrectly and argold@americantrigger.com sends back a reject email stating that their server is full.
  10. Thanks for the reply. do you have a link to the manual? I don't remember it coming with one?. Also i would prefer to remove material from a 70$ safety over a 270$ trigger... you know what i mean ;)
  11. I need some help with mine.. I have a Mega MA-TEN, ATC AR-10 gold trigger, Battle arms ambi safety. I love the trigger, smooth, crisp, great design, the install was great, but when the ambi safety is installed "correctly" i lose trigger movement, almost to the point of the trigger won't pull at all. Also the safety will only turn about half way, to move it any further you would have to force it...... Fix? It looks like it would need the trigger to be moved further forward which would cause the tail for the safety to move down, which would give me more clearance...(is this possible)? or The safety needs to have a taller notch to allow for more trigger movement (are their different sizes)? or the trigger tail would have to be thiner. here is a link to a quick video of my issue. please advise if any one has delt with or knows what to do
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