BroncoAZ

Will do. I have a couple other BA barrels that work great (8" .300 blackout, 11.5" 5.56). I looked at going with the performance series, but the guide on BA's web site discouraged it suggesting the stainless barrels were really only a benefit for competition shooters, price difference was $60. I plan on running lots of rounds through this barrel including a case of Tula .308, so more durable is better. Probably won't be assembled until mid august depending on Stag shipping the build kit, I'll have the rest of the parts next week. I ordered another Stag left handed .308 build set today, I found a 10% off coupon code that worked with the sale price making it $540 for the lower, LPK, left handed upper, and left handed BCG. In the interest of short OAL I was eyeballing the BA 14" Hansen profile or the 12.5" modern series, my Saker 762 is rated to 12". Most of the rifles I shoot regularly are SBR and suppressed, but a 308 under 16" may be pointless. I already have a Sig 556xi Russian 10" SBR that barks pretty good, but I can't run the suppressor due to monumental gas and debris to the face shooting the right handed rifle left handed, nobody offers a new piston to tune the gas properly. I might try a longer .308 or 6.5 at some point, might as well have the build kit on hand.

Hope so. Thanks for reading.

I am building a left hand eject AR .308 using the following parts: Stag Arms left handed build set (lower, left handed upper, left handed BCG), should ship end of July Ballistic Advantage .308 Modern Series 16 Government Barrel Micro MOA Govnah gas block with 3 position plate (unsuppressed/suppressed/off) Armalite AR-10 buffer tube/buffer/spring, Magpul ACS stock Larue MBT trigger AXTS 45 degree selector Vortex 2.5-10x32 FFP on Larue LT-158 mount i have owned a Bushmaster .308 ORC and currently own a S&W M&P-10, but being left handed and left eye dominant I really want a left hand eject rifle for shooting suppressed, Stag is finally making it. (I will be selling my M&P-10) I have a Silencerco Saker 762 and Omega 30 both on ASR mounts. I am going with the 16" to keep the OAL shorter with the suppressor. I have two built bolt guns in .308 for precision work. I got this sorted out later today. I had correspondence with Todd at SLR. He said the 14.87" rail would be 1/2" short of the thread shoulder on a 16" barrel, and that if my suppressor mount had a gap from the shoulder to the suppressor that I might get away with a 15.5" rail. I found a thread on ar15.com that says there is .178" of space from the barrel shoulder to the back of the suppressor with the ASR mount. I'm out of town on vacation or I'd just measure one of mine. https://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_20/442164_SR_30_Upper_Foandapos_ed_andamp__Omega_ASR_Inquiry.html#i4281367This leaves a narrow gap of .048" with a 15.5" rail. If the gap is too small I can space the mount forward with an Accu Washer muzzle device alignment shims, they range from .060"-.100". I may go that route anyway to shim the ASR mount if I run the brake mount instead of the trifecta. Even with the thinnest shim I would think .118" would be enough. I ordered their 15.5" Ion mlok rail on their Independence Day sale: http://slrrifleworks.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=909 I might've preferred a different model, but this is the only one available in the 15.5" length I want. I also ordered a Semtry 7 gas block in case the Govnah doesn't fit under the rail.

I am trying to decide on a rail for my soon to happen 16" build, I don't have any parts in hand yet. I'm looking at a rail that is 14.87 or 15.5" from SLR. Can someone measure the distance from the front edge of the receiver to the base of the threads at the end of the barrel? I want to have a minimum gap between the end of the rail and my Omega suppressor. Thanks!

Getting OT here: What I spent recently on the new Canon 60D, 70-200L f/4 IS, 1.4 teleconverter, and Tokina 11-16 f/2.8 would've bought me a pretty sweet rifle/optic package. The woman and I went on a trip to Costa Rica that was probably a once in a decade type of thing so I upgraded most of my gear.

Sofar I haven't changed anything. It's good to know that Trijicon can change the reticle. The 5.56 reticle doesn't seem to effect POI within 150 yards, the furthest I've shot this rifle to date. I'm still thinking I would like glass with more reach, but due to other interests (new camera lenses) I haven't spent the money.

Thanks for the picture. The gap on mine looks a bit smaller.

I haven't had the chance to shoot it yet, unfortunately I'm getting sick and may not be able to get out this weekend. I think the folks at LaRue might be upset with me for hanging their awesome bopid mount off of the Moe handguard. As for sending the rifle back, I don't think it was off enough that the rifle wouldn't function, so I doubt they would want to do anything about it. I found out the hard way that the gas block had to be slid forward to get the new gas tube back in. I didn't really enjoy hammering out the pins, but it's done and back together now. The gas block was the tightest to the barrel I've ever dealt with. I'll send them an e-mail anyway. My pmags and Moe grip also came yesterday and are on the gun in the pic above. Does anyone have a picture of the gap filler piece that they sell for using the Moe/Miad on the .308 rifles? There is a small gap on the back of the grip along the curved part of the receiver.

Here is a close up of the Moe handguard and how I modified the hear shield.

Here is a picture of my rifle with some basic add ons.

I just purchased the Bushmaster ORC .308 to replace my 5.56 SPR rifle for medium distance shooting. I have an ACOG TA01NSN 4x optic on the 5.56 rifle. The TA01NSN has BDC numbers on the reticle calibrated for 5.56/.223, how does this translate to the .308 on my new rifle? Will it end up being a major hassle to run this optic on the new rifle? I may end up selling the ACOG to fund a more conventional multi power optic for the .308 rifle. I was thinking something like the Trijicon Accupoint 2.5-10x56. My budget with a mount would max out at $900 or so. Most of my optics are eotechs, I don't have much experience with bigger glass on guns, but from my DSLR cameras I know you pay for quality.

It is the Moe mid length handguard. For $35 they are worth it, I'm not in the market to add another zero to buy the Larue or DD rails for a while. It is a tight fit, but no Dremel was required and they don't wobble at all. I have one set on a 5.56 rifle that snap right on and fit tight. The barrel nut issue made the Moe handguard crooked on the gun by a couple of degrees. Now it's straight, so a new gas tube and I'll be all set.

Normally the valley of the tooth on the barrel nut exactly matches the gas tube opening in the upper receiver so there is not pressure on the gas tube. In this case the barrel nut tooth was pushing against the side of the gas tube, I had to loosen it a very little bit (2 degrees) to get it to line up and not push on the gas tube. The rifle came from the factory with the barrel nut forcing the gas tube to the left side of the opening.

I got one of these rifles yesterday and wanted to add a Magpul mid length handguard. Normall these just snap right on a 5.56 rifle and it looks like they made the heat guards a bit larger on the mid length to fit the .308. The handguard installed fine with a little tweaking to the heat shield back near the chamber (straighten out the metal tabs so it doesn't catch on the upper part as you install). I noticed that the handguard was crooked on the gun. Upon further inspection I found that the barrel nut was not indexed to the gas tube, it had to be loosened a few degrees to get the handguard straight. Unfortunately I was in a rush and got dumb. I destroyed the gas tube when the barrel nut released, that thing was on there tight. I read it is a standard mid length gas tube same as an AR, so I don't anticipate finding a replacement will be a big hassle. I should've removed it before trying to budge the barrel nut. I do have to say it seems a bit sloppy on bushmaster's part to not index the barrel nut to match the gas tube position. The gas tube was being pushed to one side. I didn't fire the rifle before discovering this, I'm not sure it would've made a difference.

I picked up a Bushmaster ORC last night, this is my first post here. If I'm reading the above posts correctly: I should be able to take the LMT mil spec buffer tube from my 5.56 gun and install it on the 7.62 gun using the buffer and spring that came with the 7.62 gun. Since I'm replacing the 5.56 gun in question with the 7.62 gun I'd like to use as many of the aftermarket parts as possible.