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I guess looking at it further after taking it apart I see where the scratch is. Since this has been producing shells like the one above from the beginning, is it safe to assume that the chamber was scratched to begin with?

Went to the range today to shoot in a Cowboy silhouette match... Had the LGS take a look at the LR308. Showed him the spent case and looks like I'll be taking in the barrel for some refinish work: Basically he said he needs to check out the chamber with his bore scope... If it is possible to polish it out he will. So I figure if it is salvageable, I will have detents for my AGB put in and was thinking about either removing the threads and just have a target crown put in... thought about the crown?

I did not recognize that the ramps didn't match. I will ask my gunsmith Andy about it. thanks, on the other hand should I be cleaning the chamber after x amount of rounds?

Should I consider getting the chamber opened up a little so I can feed whatever or just get another 308 barrel and rebuild this upper? For now I just want a consistent shooter. Groups in this thing is MOA as long as it shoots/operates.

I could not find any for this barrel. I have seen a bunch of negative stuff about Red X, but I think it is due to poor customer service and not quality of product.

I am trimming the cases based on the Wilson Gauge. So when you break in the barrel, how many rounds are you running while you patch?

I have 300 rounds through this rifle 200 rounds of PPU 168GR Match and Winchester 308 40 round green box pack, the remaining 60 rounds were combinations of Hornady, Sako, and Nosler Match. The ones I am having problems with are Hornady Cased reloads of 168GR and PPU Cased Reloads 168GR. The Hornady I had 4 that did not fire. I made it through 1 round of the PPU and had a FTE and one round got jammed, but was able to safely remove both case and unfired round. Here is my BCG: Anyone using this type of BCG? The seller called it Carbonite coating, and it feels very slick to the touch. I think my chamber is ok, but I wouldn't know since I am not really trained to know if anything is wrong with it: This Saturday I am going to the local Cowboy Silhouette match to shoot my 30-30. The local Gunsmith said he would take a look at it and give me a diag of what he thinks... I wanted to get your opinions or ideas of what to ask him. thanks,

WELL... So far I have tried some reloads for this rifle. I don't know if I had mentioned what barrel I have, it is a Red X Arms 1:10 HBAR Profile 308 Match. The problem I am having is: 7.62x51 does not load Reloaded .308 ammo is not consistent It is heavy... (HBAR) oh well My question is, should I send it to my LGS and have them ream out the chamber? While I am there, I was thinking about having them remove the threads and do an 11 degree crown instead. Since this is a heavy rifle, I would just use it in the prone or bench. I am looking at building a lighter upper for offhand shooting anyway. I just want to salvage this one as it is not performing the way I had expected it to. Please suggest what I can do with this Red X Arms barrel.

Thanks unforgiven. Well, my daughter likes shooting the .223 and is interested in 3G, so I ended up building her one of her own. 6lbs 6oz with red dot, Geissele S3G. The top one is hers, she wanted all black, so I got stuck with the multi-colored one. I am using a Trijicon Reflex for my optic. Both fashion the .223 Wylde 16" barrel.

UPDATE: Hello all, It's been a while. I have been busy with classes and work, but I did manage to get the LR308K out the range and add some upgrades to it. I have installed the Diamondhead 15Inch handguard, changed the pistol grip to a more comfortable one (Ergo Deluxe), JP SCS, Lantac Dragon and the last 2 most important upgrades is a Syrac AG and a Geissele SD-E, which appears to be the better trigger for this rifle and caliber. Also, this setup is not like the original build I threw together, it feels nicer, but it is still pretty darn hefty in weight. I moved the NM DMR trigger to my .223 24Inch shooter... Here is what my .223 precision looks like: I'm working up some 308 PPU and Hornady Match loads, but still looking for a recipe. The PPU 168GR Match is not too bad, but I still also need to chrono what the rifle is doing at this point. Any suggestions as to what recipe to try out and what my chrono readings should be are welcome.

Interesting that the safety had an issue. I recently had the same issue with my Stag LPK on my AR15. I ended up purchasing a Noveske 60 degree Ambi-Safety so that my Geissele HSNM DMR trigger would work. I moved this trigger from my LR308 to my Precision build AR15. I now have the Geissele SD-E in my LR308 instead, I like it much better for the 308 it just feels right, and the DMR feels perfect for the .223. I guess it's just my opinion.

I can proudly say I have so far Geissele's S3G, Super Tricon, HSNM DMR and now the SSA-E. The S3G is nice and smooth, but the DMR and SSA-E breaks like candy kanes/icicles. I like all my Geissele triggers.

Well, installed the super tricon from Geissele and it is now the heaviest AR trigger I have installed. Breaking in at about 4lbs 10.3oz. 1st stage is about 2lbs. 13oz. It's a clean crisp break with no noticeable creep. The original trigger with JP springs, socket screw mod and polished trigger parts broke at 5lbs 4oz, but clean crisp break with very minimum creep, almost unnoticeable. Am I happy... ??? I truly am happy with the Geissele triggers. My last trigger purchase will be most likely the SDE, but I am considering the HSNM Match trigger... I'll wait until next week to decide.

Matt, You know, you're right. I can feel where the 1st stage stops and safely stop the pull prior to dropping the trigger on the second stage. It is pretty light, so I will have to tell others how light it is... I guess a try fire should be in order prior to them shooting off a round. So to clarify the first stage just feels... I hate to say it, "cheap" in terms of like I would expect more of a linear pull on the first stage. I just need to take it out the range and shoot it. Who knows I may add more weight to the 2nd stage. Currently my trigger is setup with 44oz on the first stage and then about 9oz on the second, 53oz total or 3.3125 lbs. Hopefully it will be just right for bench shooting.

I have adjusted it, and I do like the break on the 2nd stage to my liking. Just the front stage doesn't seem right to me... Like I said, I get the super tricon tomorrow... it is a 2 stage trigger that is not adjustable. If the 1st stage feels the same, then I think that will confirm that is how the first stage is suppose to be. I hope I don't have to send it back.

OK, I will take it to a gunsmith tomorrow and verify that the install is correctly done. In the meantime, here is what it looks like.

So I have the HS NM DMR in my AR 308. When you say smooth, does it feel soft? I am defining smooth as soft, but when I squeeze this trigger, it does not feel as I would have expected it to feel. Thanks for your help. At this point I am on the fence on how the $280 was spent, since I was expecting something better than a Timney or CMC trigger. Although, this is a 2 stage trigger and the break is very nice and to my liking.

98Z5V, Will it be smooth like the S3G? That trigger is smooth.

WOHOO!!! I installed my Geissele Automatics Hi-Speed National Match DMR Trigger last night and finished adjusting it today. I am getting an average total of 44oz = 2.75lbs. trigger pull weight. 1st stage is pulling at 2lbs 1.4oz and the 2nd stage 2lbs. 9ozs. Very crisp like a breaking candy cane / icicle. Only thing I am not sure about is on the first stage, I am noticing not as smooth as a pull I thought it would be. I also have a S3G trigger on my AR15 3G build and it just feels smooth. I am getting a Super Tricon for my AR pistol this week, since it is a 2 stage trigger, I will compare the 1st stages and see if they behave the same way. I am basically feeling with a slow squeeze a slight jerkiness. That could just be me as I am expecting an Anschutz like trigger response, smooth. If I need to just get used to the the nature of AR triggers, then so be it. My concern is if I have installed it correctly or not. Cheers!

It is pretty good. At 100yds, I have POI touching. Wash', where are you getting your PPU Match?

Hey washguy, that is the PPU 168 Match, right? I am shooting that now. I have been for the last week. Then I will soon be shooting reloads. and... yes, it is pretty good ammo. I got mine from Sportsmans Guide. I am debating on getting more, but I have about 100 168GR Hordady to reload soon.

Yep, I called Vortex and they are calling over torq on the Warne rings... Crap... I hope it's not damaged. I did loosen up the rings on the top, but kept the base screws at 25 in/lbs... I am still seeing minimal reticle movement... then I loosened all screws for the base and top of the ring, then cross tightened them to 15 in/lbs. I am scheduled to go to the range tomorrow after work to see if there is any improvement on the reticle movement. If no go, I will get it repaired... :-[ On another note, is there anyone here using the SWFA SS 20x42 Tactical Sniper scope? I have been eyeing this scope for some time, but do not know if the $300 price tag would be best bang for buck on this scope.

Journal update for today. A few things to note. I tested a 12" x 1/2" AR500 Gong out to 200 Yards this afternoon. My friend shot his 7.62x54R Mosin Nagant. That was the hotest shooting rifle at the range today with FMJ and the gong stood the test with no problems. With that noted, the gong handled .223, .260 and .308 ammo with NO Prob's, only paint coming off the target, from both side. The gong itself felt smoothe to the touch. Vortext Viper HS Scope issue today, a strange one for sure. When re-sighting in the scope because I changed the rings to Warren split rings, I had to move the reticle to the left based on impact of the bullet. Well, I am sitting there turning the turret to the direction to make it go left and no movement from the scope at all. I had to turn the turret the direction of the right a few and then turn it back to the left and the reticle moved to where I needed it. Suffice to say, this does not make me feel comfortable about the scope. I might have to call Vortex to see what their response will be. So onto my 40 rounds for the day on my DPMS LR308K build. I have to say I am one Happy :banana: . 9 of 10 rounds hit the 200 yard 12" target no problem, on the other 24"x24" steel square, I was hitting all 10 shots with no issues. Groups were not as tight I would like for it to be, but it is definitely enough to hit center mass of man or animal. The one that did not hit probably was bad ammo as it hit the berm kinda low from the bench. It could have been me, but I was holding high of the target in the scope and the bullet did impact on the top of the berm, which is 100 yards in front of the gong. Some time this week I will be shooting for groups to baseline before the Geissele DMR trigger upgrade... <thumbsup>. I will be shooting out to 100 yards with the same PPU Match 308 168 GR. The other more expensive ammo will be baselined with the Geissele DMR trigger installed as well. While I am thinking about it, I should shoot 10 rounds at 100 yards to see how the rifle shoots with this set-screw modified trigger breaking at 6.57lbs avg. Had a good day with the LR308K.

OK, good to know. How about using KNS with the ALG ACT trigger or the less expensive Geissele triggers that will be used for more rigorous shooting?

I plan on using my LR308K for Precision shooting, so I am looking for a trigger that Geissele trigger that breaks like a "Candy Kane" and is in the 2lbish 1st stage and 8oz ish range up to a pound on the 2nd stage. That is why I was looking at the DMR. The safety I have is the stadard one that comes with the DPMS 308 LPK. I have not considered a BADASS safety, is there a specific LR308 safety? While on the subject of changing parts out, can the KNS anit rotate pins work with the Geissele Triggers?