gsmopar

Thanks guys! I'm going to the range today with the heavy weight in my Tubbs BCW. If it still beats me up (I know, I'm a female cat), I'm going to go with one of these brakes. One last question: The OD of my barrel is 3/4 inch (stainless). In the comments on one of these brakes, the user states that it didn't match his barrel diameter. I don't see the OD of the brake listed in any of the descriptions. Any idea on which one would match my barrel?

How are they? http://www.midwayusa.com/product/125087/pri-muzzle-brake-quiet-control-5-8-24-thread-ar-10-lr-308-stainless-steel?cm_vc=wishList http://www.midwayusa.com/product/842348/jp-enterprises-bennie-cooley-tactical-muzzle-brake-308-caliber-5-8-24-thread-750-outside-diameter-stainless-steel?cm_vc=wishList http://www.midwayusa.com/product/861836/pri-muzzle-brake-quiet-control-5-8-24-thread-ar-10-lr-308-steel-matte?cm_vc=wishList

Quentin Defense Lower & CMMG 16 inch upper.

You got it! I've had the car for over 20 years (I'm not young). However, I built most of it in my younger years so it doesn't have many creature comforts. >:D edit: Just read the reply above. The "young comment" was for Josh! Ya, I can't remember the last time I blew chunks from a night of over drinking...

392Heminut, I noticed the screen name! I can bring my old pig if we go to lunch or something somewhat close to my home in Gilbert after the range!

I might be able to swing a Wednesday, but Thursday or Friday would be easier. I have been shooting at Rio Salado (http://www.riosaladosportsmans.com/) and indoor ranges with my handguns, but wouldn't mind trying the Casa Grade range. If you guys don't mind another stranger joining the group I'd love to get some experienced eyes on my .308. Later, Greg

There is an "AZ section," and can I tag along?

I have several shot guns and none of them hold a candle to this thing. I've been shooting off of a bench using a stand or bi-pod.

All pussiness aside, is this normal? I'd say that it kicks about 3x more than my old super light lever action Model 94 Winchester 32 Special with the Win using a heavy hunting load. I can't imagine shooting a full auto version of this gun! Thanks, Greg

Are you in Arizona? I'd love to swap guns for a couple shots to compare.

Reference my previous posts for a history on this build: I'm happy to report that there are no visible signs of the buffer impacting the detent. Thanks for the advice, the Tubbs CWS worked like a charm! The gun jammed several times in the 1st 50 rounds today. I checked the gas block and it appears to be seated and not leaking like my previous outtings. I suspect that it could be the clips (metal DPMS), the ammo (7.62 Winchester), or that the gun needs some more rounds through it. I split the 2nd 50 rounds between 4 clips, not loading any clip to capacity, and all rounds fired without issue. The gun still kicks like a mule. Before you jump on the "Greg is a female cat" bandwagon; I'm 6'4 @ 215 and the gun left a healthy bruise on my shoulder after about 120 rounds. I currently have the 5.6 Heavy buffer, and am going to try the heavy Tungsten CWS before going to a muzzle brake. A bystander at the range commented on how much the gun was kicking me. I was shooting 7.62 147 grain Winchester rounds (http://www.midwayusa.com/product/725859/winchester-ammunition-762x51mm-nato-147-grain-full-metal-jacket-box-of-20/?cm_cat=PAN&cm_pla=ProductDesc ). I was able to shoot 1inch groupings of 3 as I played with the scope and I'm pretty happy with the performance even in my amateur hands. Pic below is at 100 yards, and I was adjusting the scope after ever 3 or 4 rounds.

Thanks for the replies! This hobby is almost as expensive as my Hot Rod hobby. I did some web surfing and found articles on AR15.com and a few other forums. Some of the threads that I read suggested similar to what 98Z5V stated above in his reply. When I went to inspect my rifle my Buffer detent pin broke at the tip. I suspect that 98Z5V's diagnosis is correct and my buffer was hitting the pin rather than resting against the BCG. I ordered a Tubb CWS and a new detent pin. I also got some additional suggestions from Dane Armory in a PM. Will I have a problem running both the Heavy Buffer and Tubb CWS? Thanks, Greg

The upper is CMMG. The lower is from Quentin Defense in Gilbert AZ. The upper I purchased as a complete assembled upper. The lower was stripped and I put it together with a CMMG lower parts kit.

3rd time out with the .308 and I ran into the same problem as the last time. I can use some advice on a couple topics: The gas block loosened up again causing the gun to jam. I could fire a couple rounds, reach up and push the block back in place and continue for a couple more rounds. This time when I got the rifle home I loosened both set screws (already loose, similar to my last outing), and slid the block further up the barrel exposing the gas port. I noticed a divot in the barrel that looks like it is meant for the rear most set screw to set in to keep the block in place. This time I aligned the gas block with the divot and used Locktite on both set screws. Please let me know if this is common, or am I doing something wrong, etc... My Heavybuffer arrived in the mail today! While removing the old buffer I noticed that it is damaged along the edges where the buffer contacts the spring loaded recessed retaining pin. I'm going to do some youtube searching, but I guess that I have the same questions as above. Is this normal, etc... I can post some pics if you guys need them to help diagnose. I think that the gun shoots pretty straight. It would be nice to sight it in and be able to quit messing with the scope, but that won't happen until I stop removing it to work on the gas block. All shots are at 100 yards. Thanks for the help!!!

I'm going shooting Thursday. Anyone else heading up to Usery?

I'm sorry to disappoint, but unfortunately both Speedworld and Firebird have closed (Firebird's last race is this weekend). There are rumors that Firebird will reopen under a new name and management, but thus far those are just rumors. Speedworld is done for the foreseeable future. The closest track is now SIR in Tuscon followed by Las Vegas.

PS: Here is a pic of my last outing. I was shooting the gun "single shot" for most of these shots. I think that I can hold a nice tight pattern now that I have the gas block fixed and can stay focused:

Yes, I ordered the buffer and spring. The gun is all cleaned up and ready for next week! This is where I noticed the powder residue: I removed the hand guard and had to slide the gas block down about .25 inch an re-tighten the set screws: Ready for next week: The car is a 1969 Charger that I've had since 1990. It's been through a lot of different stages and currently runs mid 10's with a very old 440:

Thanks for the input on the gun and compliments on the old hot rod. I didn't take offense, just trying to be a little funny. :D You guys hit the nail on the head! I haven't fired many modern center fire rifles. All of my previous firearms are older family heirloom hunting rifles, shot guns, and hand guns. I always wanted an AR-type rifle, and got motivated with the recent political climate to build one.

Great! So now I sound like a female cat that can't handle the kick of his gun and doesn't want to make it any louder... I'm going to attempt to redeem myself with a picture from one of my other hobbies:

That's funny! :D I ordered a Heavybuffer. Hoping to hit the range again next week.

Today was my 2nd outing with my LR .308. I started to experience ejection problems after the 1st couple rounds that steadily progressed into no ejection at all. When I got the rifle home I noticed some powder residue around the gas block. Upon inspection the gas block was loose and had moved forward druing the hand full of rounds I put through the gun this morning. I put everything back in place and tightened all bolts Hopefully it will perform better on my next outing. (see my previous posts for a history on this build) On a positive side, I was able to sight the rifle in at 100 yards. The final grouping was about 3 inches on 3-5 shots after I got everything adjusted. This is with an inexperienced shooter (me). Finally, I'm debating on recoil devices. I've done some research on Muzzle Breaks, hydraulic springs and buffers, and heavy buffer/spring combos. The rifle packs a punch, but I don't know if the draw backs of each device are worth the reduced recoil. The heavy buffer appears to be fairly heavy. The rifle already weighs 10lbs and I don't know if this is the route that I want to take. I researched several break/compensator devices, and I'm concerned with the increased noise for bystanders and/or blow back towards the shooter. I use the rifle for fun and might take it hunting at some point. Real world experiences appreciated. Thanks, Greg

The new pin arrived today. It slides in (and out) without any issues. I'm back in business!!! I also scored a couple more 20 round mags and some ammo!

If you're tired of waiting, here is another option that is in stock: http://shop.ar15sport.ihoststores.com/productinfo.aspx?productid=308-CMMG16

The 1st video is my carrier and it wasn't the video's fault. The Retaining Pin just wouldn't come out. I forced it out with a punch and rubber mallet. Once it was removed, and I could inspect it; it looked slightly tweaked. I cleaned the hole and inspected before attempting to re-insert the pin. When I tried to put it back in, it didn't want to seat fully, and I knew that something was wrong. Juding from the comments on Midway USA on the product reviews, this appears to be fairly common. When I removed the pin the second time, one side had sheared. I have about 25 rounds through this gun and disassembled the bolt carrier more to see how it is done. This appears to be a good part to keep on hand, but in the current environment Midway limited my quantity to 1 on the order ($4.50 part + shipping...). Link to the Midway order, read the reviews: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/783728/dpms-firing-pin-retaining-pin-lr-308-matte