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BRD51

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About BRD51

  • Birthday March 14

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Central Arkansas
  • Interests
    Building and shooting black rifles, reloading, hunting, fishing, flying, bike riding, traveling

BRD51's Achievements

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  1. IMR 4320 is my most accurate powder out of a LR308 18.5" barrel. I use 44.7g with a 168g bthp and CCI 200 primers and it cycles fine. It is more accurate than IMR 4895, blc2, or Win 748 of the other powders I have tried. I don't know about velocity as I have not used a chrony on this load yet. I only shoot paper at 100 yards so I don't care about velocity that much. As long as it cycles fine, and is accurate, I am gtg. At some time in the past year, I loaded 18 rounds with CCI 250 primers but I don't know which 18 rounds I loaded. That is my concern. I don't recall even purchasing these primers. I must have been so overjoyed at finding large rifle primers that I didn't see the CCI 250, only the Large Rifle Primers designation.
  2. If I worked up a load using IMR 4320 and CCI 200 primers can I safely use the same load if I switch to CCI 250 Large Rifle Primers. I am not at max powder for the .308 load. If this were a .223 I would have no issues switching to CCI 450 primers on a load I had worked up with CCI 400 primers.
  3. The drill bit can be a little larger than necessary if you don't have the exact size bit. I have drilled out Polymer lowers, nearly all of them, as much as 3 wire size bits larger and the detent still worked fine.
  4. LOL, yep 1000, I can hip shoot 3" at 100,
  5. Could you be trying to install the stiff safety detent spring instead of the front pivot spring? The front pivot pin and rear takedown detent springs are the same but the safety detent spring is different. That is the one that fits in the grip. It is significantly stiffer than the other two springs but I think it is the same diameter and length.
  6. It sounds like I need to see what I can do with my 3x9 at 600 yards before I throw down a bunch of cash for more magnification. With contacts I still see pretty good. Not looking for 3" group at 100 yards.
  7. Thanks, I didn't know.
  8. If I were to try to bang steel out to about 600 yards with my LR308, would a 4x10 power be sufficient or would I need more magnification? Same question for 1000 yards?
  9. I have found a good deal on M80 primed pull down brass. My rifle has a Giessle 2 stage trigger. Do you think the primers will be too hard for this trigger to consistently fire?
  10. LOL, only reason I only have 2 .308s is I haven't found a 3rd one I like better than the 2 I have. I seem to buy in pairs, 2ea 308, 2 ea 6.8, and 2 ea 5.56 except for Glocks (4). I love black rifles and pistols.
  11. I can't tell any real noticeable difference in accuracy in the 6.8 from bumping the shoulders back only .004 instead of back to specs. However, I can tell a real difference in brass life. I have gotten as many as 10 reloads and still going from bumping the shoulder only the amount necessary to chamber the round properly. My most accurate loads for the 6.8 are with 28g AA2200 and 29 g H322 and Nosler AB 110. I consistently get 3/4 MOA from my 16" barrel and <.5 MOA from my 20" barrel using these 2 powders. I have never used H335. When I was resizing to specs, about 4 or 5 reloads was the end of brass life. I have never annealed brass either.
  12. On my 6.8 SPC, I bump the shoulder back about .004" for best accuracy and to keep from overworking the brass. Should I do that with the 308 when loading for an LR308? I know that the recommendation for 308 FL dies is to run the ram up until it touches the shell holder and then tighten the die another 1/4 turn. That bumps the shoulders back a lot more than .004".
  13. Yes sir, a screw.
  14. Thanks for the advice!
  15. Thanks. That is good to know. So the Armalite bolt catch is fully compatible with the DPMS lower without gun smithing?
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