BRD51

IMR 4320 is my most accurate powder out of a LR308 18.5" barrel. I use 44.7g with a 168g bthp and CCI 200 primers and it cycles fine. It is more accurate than IMR 4895, blc2, or Win 748 of the other powders I have tried. I don't know about velocity as I have not used a chrony on this load yet. I only shoot paper at 100 yards so I don't care about velocity that much. As long as it cycles fine, and is accurate, I am gtg. At some time in the past year, I loaded 18 rounds with CCI 250 primers but I don't know which 18 rounds I loaded. That is my concern. I don't recall even purchasing these primers. I must have been so overjoyed at finding large rifle primers that I didn't see the CCI 250, only the Large Rifle Primers designation.

If I worked up a load using IMR 4320 and CCI 200 primers can I safely use the same load if I switch to CCI 250 Large Rifle Primers. I am not at max powder for the .308 load. If this were a .223 I would have no issues switching to CCI 450 primers on a load I had worked up with CCI 400 primers.

The drill bit can be a little larger than necessary if you don't have the exact size bit. I have drilled out Polymer lowers, nearly all of them, as much as 3 wire size bits larger and the detent still worked fine.

LOL, yep 1000, I can hip shoot 3" at 100,

Could you be trying to install the stiff safety detent spring instead of the front pivot spring? The front pivot pin and rear takedown detent springs are the same but the safety detent spring is different. That is the one that fits in the grip. It is significantly stiffer than the other two springs but I think it is the same diameter and length.

It sounds like I need to see what I can do with my 3x9 at 600 yards before I throw down a bunch of cash for more magnification. With contacts I still see pretty good. Not looking for 3" group at 100 yards.

Thanks, I didn't know.

If I were to try to bang steel out to about 600 yards with my LR308, would a 4x10 power be sufficient or would I need more magnification? Same question for 1000 yards?

I have found a good deal on M80 primed pull down brass. My rifle has a Giessle 2 stage trigger. Do you think the primers will be too hard for this trigger to consistently fire?

LOL, only reason I only have 2 .308s is I haven't found a 3rd one I like better than the 2 I have. I seem to buy in pairs, 2ea 308, 2 ea 6.8, and 2 ea 5.56 except for Glocks (4). I love black rifles and pistols.

I can't tell any real noticeable difference in accuracy in the 6.8 from bumping the shoulders back only .004 instead of back to specs. However, I can tell a real difference in brass life. I have gotten as many as 10 reloads and still going from bumping the shoulder only the amount necessary to chamber the round properly. My most accurate loads for the 6.8 are with 28g AA2200 and 29 g H322 and Nosler AB 110. I consistently get 3/4 MOA from my 16" barrel and <.5 MOA from my 20" barrel using these 2 powders. I have never used H335. When I was resizing to specs, about 4 or 5 reloads was the end of brass life. I have never annealed brass either.

On my 6.8 SPC, I bump the shoulder back about .004" for best accuracy and to keep from overworking the brass. Should I do that with the 308 when loading for an LR308? I know that the recommendation for 308 FL dies is to run the ram up until it touches the shell holder and then tighten the die another 1/4 turn. That bumps the shoulders back a lot more than .004".

Yes sir, a screw.

Thanks for the advice!

Thanks. That is good to know. So the Armalite bolt catch is fully compatible with the DPMS lower without gun smithing?

I installed a CMMG lower parts kit without fire control group in my DPMS lower. I took it to the range and found that the bolt catch would not release by pressing on it to allow the bolt to go forward. I had to pull back on the charging handle to release the bolt to chamber a round. Upon inspection, the bolt catch wobbles side to side, almost like the bolt catch screw is undersized. Either that or the hole in the bolt catch is oversized! The bolt catch will not move when the bolt is locked to the rear unless back pressure is applied to the charging handle. I have not yet removed the bolt catch screw to inspect the screw and/or hole size. Any thoughts on this before I do that? I have blue lock title on the screw which is why I am hesitant to remove the screw.

Thanks! I will try to find some 4895 to try.

These are the only .308 powders I have on hand that are listed in my reloading manual for .308. Has anybody reloaded either with 165 or168 g bullets? If so, what load? I don't really like the 4320 because you have to compress it so much to get anywhere close to a hot load. What is your preferred powder for these bullets? I will be using a 18.5" FA barrel.

Thanks!

I saw a good deal on PMC .308 ammo in 147grains. Is this brass ok to reload for an AR? Also, what brass should I definitely stay away from when reloading?

Thanks for the help. Time to exercise the credit card.

I have been looking for information on this forum about parts for my new LR308 build. I have some questions and if this is the wrong place to ask them, please excuse me. 1. I plan to Order a FA Criterion 18.5" barrel. Do I need an adjustable gas block or is it unlikely to ever be over gassed with the rifle length system? I will be using 150 - 168g reloads. 2. I like A2 stocks. Can I buy any A2 AR stock and add the appropriate spring and buffer for the LR 308 and it should be gtg? 3. Does any site sponsor sell LPKs for the LR 308 without FCG? 4. Are most, if not all. AR15 triggers compatable with LR 308 lowers? Please excuse my ignorance since I have zero experience with the LR 308. I am no stranger to the AR 15. Kent

Pick up a scratch and ding LR308 DPMS FF tube for $27 plus shipping after discount. The one I ordered last week was $30 and near perfect condition.

Thank you for the welcome!. I look forward to participating in this forum.

How do I rotate a photo 90 degrees to the right for my avatar? My IPad shows the photo to be oriented correctly but once I upload it, the photo is rotated 90 degrees.