pokey

I should mention there is a free float tube that may hide any markings.

I now understand Go - NoGo - and Field gages (after a lot of reading) Now I see there are Nato head space gages as well. The Armalite, on there site looking at new barrels have a 7.65 X 51 / .308 chamber, which I think means it's a Nato chambers.

The rifle was a stripped receiver build by someone else. There are no visible markings on the barrel. Everything appears to be Armalite.

What ever chamber a Armalite has. The NoGo gage is a Clymer 308 WIN 1.634.

I've seen where on ar15's they will also use a field gage, I assume is larger. I don't know when this would be appropriate.

I've read that head space in an ar10 is larger than that of a bolt action rifle, is this true? Would it be typical for a ar10 to close on a NoGo, be it barely (using the force of one finger). Would anyone happen to have the bolt dimensions between the ar10 and the dpms pattern bolts. Just the bolts, not the carriers. Also, is it typical for the gas rings to be weak enough that while holding the bolt carrier bolt up, the bolt won't stay up (the weight of the bolt only, not the carrier). In ar15's I know you can hold the bolt facing down and the carrier won't drop. Thank you POKEY

Out of the bolt carrier how do you tell the difference between a ar10 and a lr 308 bolt. How would you know it a previous owner installed the correct bolt in the carrier.

It would be nice if we could talk companies into building a generic 308 (ar15 mil spec for example) type pattern, or at least more interchangeable . Armalite made a baby step with the A model. The proprietary designs hurt sales big time. It's the number one reason everybody I know don't buy one. For now, maybe a labeling system for what rifles the parts fit. Say something A for armalite, D for dpms and such. Maybe presenting a more constructive ,problem solving direction would help. Yes, trying to figure out what fits what drives me nuts. We should try to encourage vendors to label their parts compatibility . I know some people are going to be hard to work with.

thanks. You guys are great.

Thanks for the replies. I suppose the higher than normal scope height as compared to say a 700 Remington may have played a role also. All rounds were the same over all length, trimmed to the same length, and powder trickled. The drop difference was about 2" . No chronograph readings, hey I'm a poor boy! Looks like I may buy one soon. The .308 is a 20" barrel with 11.25/1. The .223 Is a 16" barrel with 9/1 .

Yes, all testing was done with the same bullet weight. No, it wasn't cold bore. The .308 was a 20" with a 11.25 twist. The .223 was a 16" barrel with 1/9 twist. The tests were done at .2 grains at a time. 100 yard distance. The .223 was on a lead sled. .308 on a regular rest/sand bag, because I thought the lead sled may be affecting something.

No. The rifles were sighted in with 150grand 55gr. The ladders were run with 168gr, and 69gr. Like I said, they were .308 and .223. It just seems really backwards.

One rifle sighted in at 200 yards, and the other at 100 yards. Both tests were done at 100 yards. No they weren't sighted in with these bullets. The rifle sighted in at 200 was a .308, and the other rifle sighted in at 100 was a .223.

Why if you were shooting ladders, would the bullets impact lower with higher powder charge? Before you ask, it was the same case, powder, primer, and bullet. The only thing that changed was the amount of powder. As the powder charge increased the point of impact lowered. This was true with two different rifles with four different tests. I expected the opposite. I know everything was correct, didn't load the rounds in reverse order (the heavier loaded rounds were on the bottom of the mag), or anything like that. Positive of the order they were fired in. What gives? Pokey.

How about a leatherwood camputer scope. Once you know your ballistics, loosen a couple of rings and set (about 2 min). Then you range out to 200-1000 yards using the reticle with bracketing and turning a ring, done. No need to even take your eye out of the scope. Set it once and forget it. If you know your bullet velocity, weight, and coefficient . Plug it into something like the hornady ballistics site. your scope instructions tell you what number to set it at. I've made this sound complicated and it isn't. This is the same style scope that Vietnam snipers used and is good for hunting or sniper duties. One bad side is out to 200 yards you will be at two power, and at 300 yards three power, and so on to 10 power at 1000 yards. If you like a lot of magnification at 100 yards, it's probably not for you. It does surprisingly well at 100-200 yards, don't expect to see holes in paper though.

Yes I know it's a .308 forum, but please be nice anyway. Does anybody know anything about a ban on xm855 ammo. I was curious about if it's true? If true when is it to take affect? What's going on exactly?

From what I've heard first hand, Windhams are very good rifles. Don't think you will regret the purchase at all.

You will have to let us know how it turns out. I've wanted to buy one of these rifles in .308 for a long time. Maybe some day. The Windham interest me.

Interested in input on a scope that can double as a red dot. I was thinking something of a 1x4 or a 1x6 scope with a lit reticle that could be seen in daylight at around a $350 price cap. Any suggestions would be nice. Thank you. Pokey

If there was a separate switch for the strobe it would help. It's ANNOYING! I don't even like the high and low beam on the same switch. If you look in to a 500 lumen flashlight, how much more disorienting do you need?

According to Armalite the A model upper and lower receivers, magazine catch, and the bolt stop will not fit a B model, and of course the magazine as well. I have to get one of these someday, maybe.

Does anybody know what will interchange between a Armalite AR10 A and B model ? I don't think the magazine, magazine catch, or the upper and lower receivers will fit, and I could be wrong about that. Anything other issues with things like the bolt, barrel, and buffers ?

Time for another silly question. What,s life expectancy for barrels in rounds, (with all things equal) ,of a cmv 4140, verses stainless, verses cmv 4150 chrome lined. I was told that a cmv barrel would out last a stainless, and that stainless barrels are not as tolerant of rapid firing. The question mainly applies to .223 and .308 rifles. Also, if the stainless barrel is more accurate, ( as I've heard ) just how much more accurate. Thank you. Pokey

Does anybody have any experience with blackhole weaponry polygonal barrels? How do polygonal rifled rifle barrels compare to standard rifling? I know that some pistols have poly rifling, and it seems to do good. Is it easier to clean, more accurate,or last longer? Thanks Pokey.

Probably another stupid question, but here goes. On ar10/ar15 rifles all the cantilevered one piece scope mounts seem to be around 1 1/2" high scope centerline to rail. I find that a 1 1/8" would be a better cheek weld ,and messing with butt stock risers with charging handle interference issues don't sound fun. Fitting regular rings don't always work. Are these a normal issues? Is there a reason for 1.5" scope to rail height? I would think that at 1.25" height you could still have a 50mm objective bell, I have a 42mm bell. What are some of the ways you guys get around this with A2 or M4 butt stocks. I rest my cheek bone itself on top of the stock, or is this wrong? Is this just something to live with?