Chaser

I did manage to get all parts sold. Thanks to all for the messages. v/r, Jon

They'll be coming home soon. I am for sure parting it out. The barrel and receiver sets I'm going for 450 apiece, but process are best offer. .. Barrel will come with bolt and heat shield. Add 50 for the gas block. Shoot me an offer. Jon

I built a high end Mega Arms rifle for a customer, and he decided he no could not afford to pay for it, so I am out (less the deposit). As such, components are available or the rifle can be sold as it is Mega Arms MATEN 308 billet ambidextrous receiver set DPMS Bolt Carrier Group (minus bolt) JP Rifles 20 inch SuperMatch Rifle (Headspaced bolt is in BCG. Will be sold as a set IF this needs to be parted out) JP Rifles Heat Sink JP Rifles Railed Gas Block B.E Meyers Flash Hider Raptor Charging Handle KAC Ambi selector switch Geissele SSA-E Trigger Extra Heavy Recoil Buffer MAGPUL PRS 308 black stock Harris 9-13" S-L bipod with mount MAGPUL MIAD grip KAC flip up front/rear sight set FORTIS Switch Rifle Length Handguards (doesn't slide over the gas block...that was done by request). http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/SilentKnights/Mobile%20Uploads/20150921_180031_zpscbiauc2m.jpg http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/SilentKnights/Mobile%20Uploads/20150921_180047_zpswhxpxrcl.jpg I'm willing to part out pieces as needed or let the whole lot go for $2250. Please let me know and shoot your best offers. If you want the whole thing, let me know and I'll get the project finalized ASAP so that it can be sent on it's way (would consist of test firing after stuff is mounted. This is not a career for me, but just a hobby....and Wednesday I'm having a new addition to the household, so I'm trying to clear out the stuff and get it all done. Drop an offer on things you're interested in and PM me with a price/best offer. If it's not there, I'll negotiate.....but wanna get some of this stuff moved out. Please email me at DC9legacy @ gmail. com (Delete the spaces, but via Gmail I'll have more reliable access). Please advise. v/r, Jon

All is sold pending final funds. v/r, Jon

Croaker, that is the exact same wear pattern I had. By filing the underside of the charging handle down, mine is doing much better. I'll let you know if my Raptor charging handle has the same issues. v/r, Jon

Don't worry. I am not upset or getting defensive about that. I am grateful for the help. The interactions with Mega Arms were basically the same way..... the first person saying "you should have called us immediately rather than demeaning the process." (I emailed as soon as I noticed that it helped.) Then tried to work together to see if this was caused by an error that I made. But with it starting immediately with the BCG installed I am not sure how. I don't think it's any fault of people. ... and historically the Weird-Poop-O-Meter pegs out whenever I try to do something like this. I can lock the bolt back now or feed a round after the grinding. I want to get the new charging handle to see if that works. But I will be getting her out to the range soon, and with any luck I'll have some new stuff after the New Year. V/R, Jon

So they told me. I can't explain what happened...whether it was a slight difference in the interaction between the bolt carrier and charging handle due to tight tolerances or what. All I can say is "It wouldn't pull. I ground the charging handle down. It will pull." I don't fault Mega Arms for things, but when I've dropped more than $4500 on a rifle.....I want it to be range-worthy, not a paperweight. So I've been doing everything I can to get the components working. v/r, Jon

I was more concerned with the safe loading of the round. Breaking it down and manually loading it seemed a bit more risky than I wanted to get.... especially because I hadn't diagnosed the problem yet. Jon

No...I haven't. I'm not convinced that it would have cycled before I ground the crap out of the charging handle. I CLP'd it 4 times and it took 2 hands and the rifle propped on my abdomen to get rearward travel beyond where the bolt disengages from the star chamber. Racking that first round would have LITERALLY been impossible. I'd have to manually load the bolt, drop the BCG in, reassemble......try not to get it to go boom at the same time. The rifle will be going to the range within the next couple weeks most likely. I want to see how it all comes out. All remaining parts are on order. v/r, Jon

That was right where mine became an issue, when the bolt disengaged from the barrel. I ground a few mm off both sides and even the CH and it's fairly smooth now (although I need to take a bit more as she's still sticking, but I'm going to see what happens with the Raptor ambi charging handle. Who makes your receiver set? v/r, Jon

Confirmed: It is the charging handle. I ground multiple places and have managed to get it easier to charge. What a mess. I am hoping that is the ONLY problem, but it is dramatically easier. So my hope is that the Raptor ambi charging handle will maybe work a bit better. In the meantime, I'm going to keep trying to figure out how to get this to do everything I can, as I wanna see this baby ready to be operational. v/r, Jon

I think I found the problem. I'm 99% sure that the charging handle is the issue, but it is certainly involved with the charging handle. Strike/friction marks are on the lower receiver, and it seems to get a bit easier after I took the dremel to the CH. I'm going to try the Raptor....hopefully it'll work. But otherwise, I'm going to certainly grind some of the pieces down to help facilitate movement. I just hate to go grinding on stuff without a real grip on what is going on....and until I am close to getting my weapon painted. v/r, Jon

I tried using an AR-15 rifle buffer from one of my other weapons.....same problem. AR-15 buffer spring to soften the pull....same problem. Took the whole assembly off and I could get it back occasionally....but it still seemed to stick frequently. The BCG is capable of moving on its own, as can the charging handle....but the two together seem to be what I'm guessing the problem is. I just tried ordering a Raptor Ambidextrous 7.62 charging handle. I find it hard to believe that the charging handle would be the problem....but I have to try it. This is just giving me fits of insanity....lol. v/r, Jon

The full pull sucks, beginning approximately 1/8 inch back. I have been able to replicate the problem without the lower connected (pulling the charging handle/BCG back as a unit when not connected to the lower, and it still sometimes sticks). The CLP has made it able to be pulled....but it's still a fight for the entirety of the pull. I'm using the Slash buffer, 308 spring and 308 rifle buffer with the PRS. I'm trying to find the regular buffer around here somewhere, but I don't think that that's the problem. My gut feeling is an interaction between the CH and BCG....but I can't prove it. v/r, Jon

I am trying to track an issue. At this time, I've finally assembled the structural pieces of my 308 project which consists of a Mega Arms 308, DPMS bolt carrier, JP Rifles barrel assembly, and the DPMS buffer. The problem is that when I attempt to rack the charging handle it is exceptionally difficult....like two hands difficult. The bolt never sticks back, as I'm not even 100% sure it's back far enough to trigger the mag catch solidly. If I release the charging handle, the whole thing slams forward. Seats properly....but as I cycle it, I can distinctly smell "hot metal". I can't locate any wear on either the BCG, charging handle, or the receiver. Charging handle is also Mega Arms. All pieces cycle appropriately, and it's gotten slightly better with repeated applications of CLP, but this just seems abnormal. Anyone had similar experiences or recommendations on what to change? My gut feeling is that it's an interaction between the bolt carrier and the charging handle....but I'm not sure if anyone can help with recommendations on another....I don't want to just keep buying BCGs to try to "get lucky". v/r, Jon

Thanks. I'm super excited to put her through the paces. Gonna get the upper assembly done ASAP so that I can put it through the paces. :D V/R, Jon

I apologize for the confusion. I'm familiar with the TRUE SBRs....but for rifle length gas systems, this is probably as short as you could really go. I'm just looking to make sure that it's effective from others with similar experiences. I'll try to fix the title to avoid future confusion. V/R, Jon -Edit: I can't update the title. I'll try to be a little more clear. As I reread the posts, I kinda wondered whether I'd accidentally ingested some sort of "Derp Sauce", as I usually try to be a hell of a lot smarter when I'm generating a post. My apologies. - Jon

Ah hell...JP Rifle...my phone autocorrected. It wasn't the 16 inch barrels alone, but 16 inch barrel combined with rifle length gas tubes. Fulton Armory appears to have discontinued their rifle length 16 inch barrel, but their 18 inch is on sale, so that may be my start point. Trying to keep it short and portable, but still have my own constraints of what I'm looking to accomplish. Reviews on the internet seem to be mixed, but I'm not going to be shooting Wolf ammo through it, so I'm not extremely concerned regarding that happening. V/R, Jon

Yup. I knew about the .30 muzzle brake. This will be my second 308 and third rifle overall. I have researched a lot before I drop money. ...both so I can avoid wasting money, and because I am allergic to having my rifle blow up on me. Lol. Thanks for the info on Fulton armory. I didn't know that they had 16 inch with rifle length gas systems. V/R, Jon

I just remember from speaking with JP Rifles that they said shortening below around 18 inches could create cycling problems, but I really would like a short version that is more able to work in confined spaces. Initially I thought of creating just a second upper.... but I still like the idea of two rifle setups. So a standard flash hider should work well with the barrel. That is great to hear. I am not really in love with KAC thinking that they have the monopoly on military markets, even though some of their stuff looks nice. V/R, Jon -Edited to correct phone's autocorrect of my already correct correction. Jon

So I am looking to do a variant similar to the ECC. I know that the dwell time is critical, so I figured I'd verify with others having similar experiences and see about possibilities of other configurations rather than automatically enlarging the gas port. I was looking at doing an adjustable gas block underneath the sight. I can use a MAMS 7.62, but also looked into standard flash-hiders. Also, rather than a full length buffer, I would like to use a carbine buffer to shorten the distance that the BCG travels. Does anyone have experience on if this would work? My initial plan would be using a Rainier Arms UltraMatch .750 barrel cut to 16 inches. I'd rather not use a KAC MAMS, but rather a Vortex style flashhider (keeping it similar in design to my other rifle). Any input would be welcome. Thanks in advance. v/r, Jon

Thanks Robocop. I've been here for a little bit, but since nearly all my questions have been asked, I haven't had to post much more.....lol. With any luck, I'll have her out to the range soon....but my work schedule sucks, so it may end up being around the start of the new year before I can really get out and open up on the range. Jon

At last, after nearly 4 months, $5000, etc....my baby is almost finished. She looks nothing like I initially what I'd planned, based loosely on the M110 initially, but I realized that as overpriced as KAC is for the 5.56, if you multiply that by 5, you'll have how overpriced they are for 7.62. So, I decided I was going to do what I wanted, and to hell with the rest. Mega Arms stock, JP rifles 20 inch barrel, B.E. Meyers flashhider (it's a bit longer than I wanted the rifle, but...such is life), Geissele SSA-E trigger, A.R.M.S bipod mount, Harris S-L 9-13" bipod, Leupold Mark 4 8.5-25 front focal plane scope, Magpul PRS stock, KAC URX II 12.5, DPMS bolt, Slash heavy weight recoil buffer.....I think that's everything. I think I'm going to change the BUIS to a KAC 45 degree offset, just because I don't like that it isn't able to effectively engage close range targets due to the 8.5-25 scope (I was going to go with a 6-20, but this one was extremely cheap and in gorgeous condition). It's either that or begin working on a second rifle. We'll see how it works out.... V/R, Jon

You are more likely to GET an infection than contain them using these products. PLEASE do not purchase these and think it means something. Using N95 respirators and splash goggles against someone who is projectile vomiting is begging for it. They are playing to the fear/paranoia brought to you by the Mainstream Media. I would be happy to help anyone set up an "Ebola kit" if they are truly that concerned.....but I promise you that there will be nothing like this crap. V/R, Jon

I made a change in my handguards, and decided to go with the Daniel Defense 7.62 Lite Rail II (12.5 in). I wanted to be able to assemble this rifle myself. KAC URX III 12.5 (5.56) - I bought this one on error, not realizing I was buying an SR-15, not an SR-25 length. It has never been installed on a rifle (I will attach photos when I'm able), and comes with upper, lower, and barrel nut. Condition: Brand New (never installed) $300 OBO KAC URX II 12.5 (7.62) - This one I'd bought on AR-15.com, and it was installed on a newly purchased SR-25, but was immediately removed by Boltcarrier.com, then sold to me, where I basically "pseudomounted" (no damage or anything), but has not been re-attached to a rifle. Comes with the SR-25 barrel nut (castle style), upper and lower halves. Condition: LIke New (Carefully uninstalled) $350 OBO KAC 600m USMC BUIS - This was purchased initially to be the complement to the original BUIS, but at this point, I'm going to go with the same maker for fore and aft BUIS. $50 (Sold only with one of the handguard kits, or if both are sold) Although I'm new here, my EBay User ID is 505_medic, and I've never had an issue with transactions in the past. Just wanting to extend the offers here before I go trying to pursue other pieces. All parts are in hand now, but given that I have a chaotic work schedule, it is easiest for me to post the advertisement while waiting for my work shift to start. (As soon as I can, I'll post the photos, and obviously don't expect people to buy off of my word.) Jon -Edit 1: I attached a file from when the URX II 12.5 was sent to me. Condition has not changed as I put it immediately into a protective wrapper. The white is simply loctite residual, and not damage to the rails. Castle nut is included, but not shown in the image specifically. Image of the URX III will be available as soon as possible. - Jon