Owl21

I like it. But at 2.2 lbs on the end of a barrel, one needs some support after shooting off hand for any length of time.

I had a bunch of spare parts laying around. The flier was from an ant biting me right as I was breaking the trigger.

A forward grip on a pistol alters the weapon, and one must obtain a $5 AOW (Any Other Weapon) stamp. Therefor it becomes registered and must go through an FFL for transfers. The Magpul AFG is not considered a forward grip by the BATFE.

Born and raised in Texas. I moved to California when I graduated high school. I know exactly what you are talking about. Snowboard in the morning, destert race in the afternoon, and surf in the evening; big job, big pay, big house, fine women, blah, blah, blah. Been there, done that, got the tee-shirt, left the state and the woman behind. I didn't really find it that hard to do (except for breaking down in the middle of the Mojave 50 miles out of Barstow on my way out and CHP wouldn't even call me a tow.) I even tried it again after military service, and that only lasted nine months before I had to divorce the state once and for all. Now I have a better job, better pay, better home, and far better woman. So yes, it is easy for me to say because I have done it more than once, and not just with California. I had to divorce South Carolina and Virginia as well. The Florida and Alaska divorces were forced on me, so I will be back. Like I said, I would move. Who's Katy Perry?

Sure, who doesn't? I just don't like even more registration. Of course, if I lived somewhere that pistols were not allowed, I would move...and it would not be the first time.

You can dimple your barrel with a drill and drill bit for free. Your set screws should have "marked" the barrel. If not, simply back out the set screws (one at a time) and mark their position on the barrel. The dimples are no deeper than the depth of the "V" of the tip of the drill bit. And for the $60-65 cost of a set of Go, No-Go gauges from Midway or Brownells, you can do headspace yourself, now and forever.

I know I am a little late to the party here, but with the utility of the SIG Arm Brace, there is really no need to do SBR anymore (unless you just really need an adjustable stock.) I have a pistol marked lower with a SIG Arm Brace, and run my 10.5" 300AAC Black Out upper or my 8.5" 7.62x39 upper. With either one, I run my 7.62 YHM QD suppressor. I also run a heavy buffer because of the suppressor. It is nice and compact, and does not require any registration. I can switch stuff around however I like without any thought of breaking a stupid law. (The QD suppressor is really nice when you run a QD FH or Comp on all of your rifles like I do.)

It appears that your gas block is leaking gas around the tube. I went an looked at all of my AR's and none of them have that blackening where they exit the gas block. (AR-15 and AR-308 gas tubes are the same.) You might consider changing the block and tube, but wait and see what others think.

Ok, then the only things I can think of (if using SAAMI spec factory ammo) that could be causing the FTEject issues have already been addressed (under gassed, not broken in), with the exception of a buffer/spring issue. I once had a buffer that would bind up in the tube. It was a few of hundreths out of spec and caused me all kinds of issues until I found it. I would still lean more towards under gassed. Make sure that the block and tube are free of any obstructions (like metal shavings that didn't make it out during manufacture.) Even a faulty gas tube with a longitudinal crack or an improperly seated cap could also be letting gas out.

It might be an optical illusion, but it appears that your forearm is not properly aligned. It looks to be about 1.5 degrees clockwise from TDC. If this is the case, then your barrel nut may also be slightly out of alignment, which would cant your gas tube slightly to one side. This would create friction between the gas tube and the gas key. This would cause FTEject issues, among others.

This was a decent article about what to carry (and what not to carry.) It seems like a mash between survivalist and military. http://www.absolutesurvivalist.com/freedom-works/moving-with-a-heavy-load-for-the-real-world Oh, and this too: http://www.absolutesurvivalist.com/freedom-works/everyday-carry-first-tier

I was going to strip the DPMS because I had it (received in a trade.) It is a simple carbine battle rifle, which is not appealing to me, so that is why I was going to make the changes. With the deal offered by AP, it made the decision easy for me to just build from scratch, which is what I am more accustomed to doing. I am sure I will sell off the DPMS since it is not something which I will get much use from.

Yeah, it seems that I am the unlucky one. My "reliability tests" were nothing more than use. One simply did not like many type of ammuntion and had consistent FTFeed issues. Another kept breaking pistons and no one could figure out why, and the last one simply would not cycle reliably (I found out later that it had an internally broken gas block), and the new owner says once found and repaired (the gunsmith that found it apparently lost locks of hair in the process) that it now runs without issue. So now I am going back to the known reliability of DI and see if my luck changes.

Ergonomically, it was outstanding. Functionally it left something to be desired. Anytime I changed ammuntion, it had to be re-tuned. I had one of the first 200 to come off the production line, and I think the early models had some quirks. Within 20 rounds, the chrome was flaking off of the bolt face. I never came to terms with the forward ejecting brass. Mine didn't want to run if you were shooting at targets above your head, since the empty casings were fighting gravity in the ejection tube, preventing the next spent case from getting out. A few minor changes would make it an awesome weapon, but I do not know if any of those have been addressed. I might own another one in the future, but I am still searching for a relaible 308 semi-auto rifle, especially since the three FALs I had all failed to be reliable.

I know that I don't want a brake since I have a suppressor and I use it on all of my guns religiously. I know I want to freefloat the barrel and want a lower recoil impulse. Though it is my first 308 AR, it is not my first 308 semi-auto. I have gone through several FALs, and an RFB. I like the lower recoil afforded by adjustable gas and the accuracy that comes with free-floating the barrel, not to mention the ability to easily install a bi-pod and IR laser when needed. Darb, I will either be running a FFP mil-dot or I might try out the new PA ACSS .308 H.U.D. scope for quicker ranging. I am not sure yet.

***EDITED I am going to build my first 308 AR after many years of building accurate AR-15s. The rifle will be used to replace my 200-600 yard DMR AR-15, and is based off of a stock DPMS Oracle with about 20-rounds through it that I took in a trade. Keeping the upper receiver, lower receiver, BCG, and charging handle here is a list of the intended upgrades: • Blackhole Weaponry 18" mid-length gas 1:11 barrel • PXT low-profile adjustable gas block • YHM Phantom QD flash-hider (for Phantom QD suppressor) • Midwest Industries 15" free float rail • FAB-Defense GL-Shock stock • HeavyBuffer's CAR-10 buffer and spring • Hyperfire 24E trigger I intend to always run suppressed and will use factory 168 A-max match ammo (at least initially.) My longest average ranges will typically not exceed 600, but I will occasionally try targets out to 1000. If anyone can poke holes in my choices, have at it. I will start ordering parts in the next few days. (I just realized I am going to have a lot of parts laying around) ***EDIT: It seems I just found a good deal on an AERO Precision upper/lower set, which I just purchased. So instead of modifying the DPMS, I am now going to simply build a new one from the ground up. So in addition to the parts mentioned above I will also be adding the following to the complete build • Lord Arms Nickel Boron BCG • LPK (minus trigger group) • Mil-spec carbine buffer tube