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Joeymac

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  1. So it turns out you can buy individual stripped bolts from DPMS directly for $85 shipped... which isn't too bad if you have the spare parts sitting around to complete it (which I do). Alternatively, I can get the Toolcraft complete BCGs for ~$130 delivered a few places I think. Although I wouldn't need the carrier. How would a DPMS brand bolt compare too Toolcraft's? Should I just get the DPMS bolt since I have the spare parts to assemble it? Or a third option: the RCA complete HP bolt and firing pin can be had for $150. Probably the "best" bolt, albeit the most money, too.
  2. I've had NiB bolts get flame cutting and just decided to stop using NiB bolts. I haven't noticed it in nitride bolts. I might not shoot enough though.
  3. You mean flame cutting around the primer pocket? Even on nitride bolts?
  4. Huh? I have GO/NO-GO/Field gauges... if that's what you mean.
  5. I'd like to buy just a bolt and my other toolcraft BCGs have been fantastic. They makes super affordable 308 BCGs, so I would assume purchasing just the bolt only is a bit cheaper, too. But I can't find anywhere selling just the bolts. Anyone know a place?
  6. I've always heard with AR15s, for max reliability, to "run the heaviest buffer your rifle will lock back on". Something about more momentum moving helps it power through fouling and such. I'm sure It's not the lightest recoiling option, but I can understand why more momentum helps reliability. I've actually got an A5 Tube en route and a Slash XH buffer, plus I've got plenty of H/H2/H3 buffers around. I'm going to give my RCA Adjustable gas key a try and tune the gun to cycle the XH buffer perfectly. Then, if I can achieve it, I'm going to step down buffer weights until it cycles unsuppressed perfectly. this means that I should have the gun setup for prefect cycling suppressed and unsuppressed with only the silencer install and buffer swap. And if the strategy doesn't work, then I can fall back the configuration in the video and have a perfect cycling gun unsuppressed and a decent cycling (slightly overgassed gun) suppressed. I just want to avoid having to tinker with gas settings every-time I change ammo or the suppressor.
  7. Those should be the approximate weights of standard 3.25" AR15 buffer weights (H/H2/H3/HSS/Slash-XH)... no? The nice thing is that I already have Car, H2 and H3 buffers sitting around. So I picked up a Slash XH off the ARF EE today and MOE FCS off the .
  8. You mean he recommends a standard AR10 Carbine or Rifle spring? Is there a difference? Armalite OEM the best source or is there a more premium option?
  9. I found a post from 98Z5V in the thread below saying if you run the Armalite AR10 Carbine receiver extension (same as A5 RE) with the typical AR15 H3 Carbine buffer, you should use the Armalite EA1095 buffer spring... I' m just not sure what spring should be run with that XH Carbine buffer since it's shaped differently than the H3 AR15 buffer.
  10. I'm going to switch away from my Carbine Tube and Slash Heavy Buffer (2.5"/5.6oz) to an A5/AR10 length tube. This should give me more flexibility in selecting 3.25" buffers to tune my gun for suppressed vs unsuppressed shooting as it's easy to find 3.8/4.6/5.4/6.5/8.5oz since they are just AR15 buffers. Plus I'd like a tad more length of pull. The gun is a 14.5" midlength .308 to be specific. What spring would I use in an A5/AR10 tube with regular sized 3.25" carbine buffer? It looks like the Slash XH-Carbine Buffer (3.25"/8.5oz) has some extra thickness on the head of the bufer... Does this change what spring should be used with this buffer in an A5 tube? Typical/HSS buffer shape vs XH buffer:
  11. Following up for posterity: I took it to the range and it went great. Lubed it up, ran a lubed patch down the bore, and then started shooting. It cycled everything and locked back on everything. 100 rounds (25% suppressed) and no FTF, FTE, jams or hiccups. No stopping to clean or lube either. The brass looks clean and not mangled. It shot pretty flat with the just the brake and no silencer, although the blast was sizable. With no silencer it puts brass in a pile about 10 feet away at around 3:00-4:00. Which for an AR15 would be perfect, I'm not sure about an AR10/LR308 though. And with the silencer attached and no other adjustments it actually deposits brass about 4 feet away a the 1:00-2:00 position... which I think that forward thrown brass means slightly overgassed, although that wouldn't be surprising considering the addition of the silencer. Nevertheless, it still functioned great anyways even with a silencer. I'm surprised it ran so well with no gas regulation at all for either. Magical setup: .073" Gas Port, 14.5" Midlength Barrel, Plain Gas Block, Regular Bolt, Slash Heavy Car Buffer (5.6oz). It ate Freedom 155gr Amax Reman, Gemini 155gr Amax Reman, MFS 150gr Steel, PRVI 175gr SMK, German DAG surplus, and Malaysian L2A2 Surplus. Locked back on all of 'em. At this point, I don't even think it's worth playing around with tuning the gun using the adjustable gas key & lighter buffers. Although I might switch over to an A5/AR10 carbine tube though with a Slash XH Carbine Buffer (8.5oz) and Magpul FCS for a slightly longer LOP. Look at the sweet concussion in the gif image... the can nailed to the post 5 feet away is rattling and you can see the camera itself being shook 10 feet away.
  12. OK, took it to the range and it ran like greased lightning. Lubed it up, ran a lubed patch down the bore, and then started shooting. It cycled everything and locked back on everything. 100 rounds (25% suppressed) and no FTF, FTE, jams or hiccups. No stopping to clean or lube either. The brass looks clean and not mangled. It shot pretty flat with the just the brake and no silencer, although the blast was sizable. With no silencer it puts brass in a pile about 10 feet away at around 3:00-4:00. Which for an AR15 would be perfect, I'm not sure about an AR10/LR308 though. And with the silencer attached and no other adjustments it actually deposits brass about 4 feet away a the 1:00-2:00 position... which I think that means slightly overgassed, although that wouldn't be surprising considering the silencer. Nevertheless, it still functioned great anyways even with a silencer. I'm surprised it ran so well with no gas regulation at all for either. Magical setup: .073" Gas Port, 14.5" Midlength Barrel, Plain Gas Block, Regular Bolt, Slash Heavy Car Buffer (5.6oz). At this point, I don't even think it's worth playing around with tuning the gun using the adjustable gas key & lighter buffers. Although I might switch over to an A5/AR10 carbine tube though with a Slash XH Carbine Buffer (8.5oz) and Magpul FCS for a slightly longer LOP.
  13. Don’t know... left it alone at .072”-.073” and I’m going to test it out it Thursday. Maybe it will run well with a standard toolcraft carrier (without adjustable key) and then either a slash heavy buffer or a standard DPMS carbine buffer. If not I can open it up to .081 and play around with the adjustable gas key from there. But it would be cool if I could get it to run with a plain gas block and carrier. unfortunately, I couldn’t find any weak wolf or ZQI ammo to tune for bolt hold open with. So my weakest loads I’m bringing are DAG and L2A2 milsurp, Freedom remanufacture and MFS steel cases.
  14. So I finished rebuilding my .308 project after welding and pinning the muzzle device last night (poorly I might add, lol). The guns previous setup was carbine gas and the extraction was premature with excessive carrier velocity as well. Extraction reliability was sketchy and it beat the poop out of brass even more than a regular 308AR. I think this setup should cycle a whole lot better than my last carbine 14.5”; the bolt/barrel headspaces perfectly between a GO & NOGO, the midlength gas is longer and the port is also 0.010" smaller. While I was changing the barrel and bolt, I also replaced some of the ergonomic bits, too. Put the whole thing on a scale and it's exactly 8.75# unloaded with optic (7.83 LB without optic). It balances nicely at the magwell, too. I’m sure there’s lighter “lightweight” setups, but this ones full featured and still decently light considering it’s not using anything exotic. Typical barrel/BCG, stock and handguard. If it functions well, it will make a hell of a DMR out to 500-600 with 155gr AMAX, but still small and light enough for dynamic shooting inside 100yds. Parts: Black Rain billet set populated with DPMS parts. Ballistic Advantage Premium Series Barrel (16” middy cut to 14.25") Ballistic Advantage factory pinned gas block & tube Ace Entry Stock with Slash Heavy buffer and JP carbine spring. Toolcraft BCG with installed RCA Adjustable Gas Key JL Billet 12.8" Mlok Handguard Magpul K2 grip (spare battery & torx in grip) ALG ACT trigger (Larue MBT on order though) Leupold VX-R Patrol 1.5-4X in Aero Ultralight mount Magpul MBUS Pro backup irons Pinned AAC 51T Brake Mount (for a762-SD can)
  15. Just clamp the barrel, it’s darn near free and that’s what’s in the Army’s M16 Tech manual. Works well. that being said, brownells reaction rod is half the price of the geissele and works all the same.
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