Valetic

Anyways I listened to you in the end if it matters. I had to have an epiphany for that to happen, but I’m glad I did keep reading into it because then I would’ve been stuck with a shorter barrel than I would’ve wanted for competition use anyways. It’s just a gun at the end of the day. And if I want quality I’ll get it after I put some rounds down range. Not looking to hunt with this thing, regardless who makes the barrel, at 14.5 inches. I’ll save that for a bolt action or race gun later. I just don’t see the point in the original build anymore because I was wanting an all in one in 3 or 4 directions. Something something different tools different situations. if you still wanna be a jackass about the past that’d be fine too, I could use a good chuckle.

Is their barrel really that much better? Not really being picky at all at this point. Is there a reason the bear creek won’t eat anything I feed it? I’ll cancel the order if I can if y’all really think I should. wasn’t planning on swapping barrels out again really, just something I can soldier up with for now.

I mean what’s the difference if it shoots. My thinking was if the BCG can handle it the barrel should be able to handle the rest. like was said before, I could just get something simple to start with, and worry about complicated bullsht after I get up and running. Probably gonna get a 308 bolt rifle to pair so I have more of the same type of ammo layin around. I’m only interested in shooting 0-100 yards with it if I really needed to off the range for some reason. So bear creek seemed fair, not bad, but decent.

I went bear creek because I saw one video and one comment saying how their rifling was pretty good. It was a budget item in an already inexpensive build. Didn’t really see the need to overdo it if I’m trying to listen to your boy here. If I should send it back I will. Should I go with the JP? Lmao

I’m not putting an $800 barrel on a $400 build.

Apparently I can since I don’t listen.

Damn y’all still talkin smack? I never said anything about a suppressor btw. And I found several different flash comps, but I’m not really interested in them anymore as my research has shown me that it’s better for me to go one or the other. I’m sure y’all gonna eat that up. I ordered a toolcraft and a bear creek barrel so far. Who would’ve thought a $400 build would be more reliable than spending thousands with one of the most revered after market suppliers. Oh well. It is what it is, right? If I can give it a bath in a Louisiana swamp like you can the JP 15 and it still wants to shoot, I’ll be a believer. that’ll be the first thing I do when I get it set up. I’ll make sure and give y’all a range test result after that.

I have one more question for you. Would you say the JP VMOS is more reliable than a full mass system, it takes the SCS buffer, or is that complicating it? Damn you found me out.

Yeah I talked to somebody a minute ago that said it doesn’t do as well as going all or nothing on either one. It might be another story with brake comp hybrid though. Idk

That’s actually a flash/brake hybrid.

I know there are a few on the AR 15 platform, but I can’t really find one for the 308. The new plan is a 14.5 weld. Might not be smart if I can’t tune it though and just need to go with the flash hider. Maybe it is smart, 308s have a nice kick. Just thought I’d ask. I don’t really want to go with a brake either because everyone says it’s concussive as hell and some of them give you a blast of heat and smoke, especially on shorter barrels. My thought was to cancel out some of the sound while getting rid of some muzzle rise. If not I’ll probably just go with one or the other. And if I did, which one do you think I should choose?

Well, I’m sold. This rabbit trail ends at the adjustable gas block. I didn’t realize how permanent it is. I found one company that does (BRT) that makes one you can microtune on the fly. But they don’t make one in the barrel size I need. I mean they might if I call them up, apparently they’re a sort of mom and pop thing, and might do it as a one off. But it’s all enough to convince me that I need to just buy a damn bolt action hunting rifle and a heavy ass BCG for my SHTF. Thanks everyone, it’s been beautiful. Hope to see you all again.

I just wanted to know what I was doing before I decide to drop a couple of stacks on a rig. I probably am asking too much out of one thing. And the farther I go down this rabbit hole the more I see that. Like I’m talking about accuracy yet I wanna run a gas system. Oh well, thanks for trying lol

As a matter of fact, they actually don’t say the steel carrier isn’t duty/combat safe. “Our proprietary bolt design, the JP EnhancedBolt™ is superior in every way to a standard Mil-spec bolt. Manufactured from SAE 9310, it has a drastically extended lifespan while design improvements ensure superior function. This high pressure .308 model is designed to open up reliable function of AR platforms with over-pressured loads such as 6.5mm and 6mm calibers.” I was actually thinking of the aluminum version which does say competition use. Fun facts.

You know what. You’re right.

I understand that anything the military hasn’t accepted in their system isn’t mil spec, it’s that a lot of after market stuff can get away with saying it about certain things to increase sales. And JP says the LMOS is not recommended to be used with for combat/duty. Regardless, I would like to know how durable it actually is. If it is, I can just swap out a buffer system, turn up the gas and get going. If I can’t do that for at least a few hundred rounds then I might have second thoughts.

I don’t think my definition of mil spec is off and I am extremely bias towards the AK being the overall most durable gun. A quick google search should tell you that. Mil spec in the terms you described leaves out the durability and reliability of military engineered firearms. I don’t think some of these after market parts were torture tested nearly like the military did. Their stuff had to be as durable as possible, they had that in mind. Some companies came out in the past and released “mil spec” products but completely shot themselves in the foot because they absolutely were not reliable in a combat situation. I think it was Remington in 1960 did this? You can’t just say something is mil spec by the metallurgy and machining alone, can you?

Damn right. But I’m also an ethical hunter, wanting only humane kills and accurate shots. And I’m not sure I will be making another gun after this, and if I do it would definitely be a mil spec 14.5” AR 15. I’m hoping this firearm will last me for years to come, and be dead nuts accurate.

Exactly. I’m going to know where to tune the gas and which spring to use every time. The problem is it’s not mil spec. And they recommend not using them for duty/combat situations because of that. So if you have it tuned just right and some dirt or something gets in there and it doesn’t cycle, you might be up poop creek in a combat situation. Or you just over gas it on the fly, but I’m not sure what doing that will do to the Bcg. Not only that, you have lighter weight or springs that are tuned just right too. And now you’re dealing with those issues rather than a one size fits all which is basically what mil spec is. and ABGs can fail too. I can understand the lack of reliability with using this kind of system. Mil spec is designed to work come hell or high water. Fixed gas block that won’t fail, over gassed so it will shut no matter what, strong spring and weighted so it will shut no matter what, heavy and reliable Bcg that will take much more punishment than that, so on and so forth. Every nut, bolt, and screw is put together with the system to not fail under any circumstance. if worse comes to worst, I’ll just over gas the thing a bit. I’ll probably be running 168 or 175 rounds anyways, and hunters usually carry 308 in much lighter grain so stumbling across 308 ammo like that is more likely imo if SHTF. yes I’m building a race car but I’ve also given this some thought. what I do wonder is how much the LMOS has been torture tested, still looking into all these details. Because if I overgas the system idk what kind of short or long term effects it could have on the Bcg itself.

I can appreciate that.

I’m not complicating anything. For SHTF for me, it just needs to be able to withstand a little rain and maybe some crawling around. Other than that, I don’t wanna see any problems for thousands of round. I was going to go with the AR 10 first, and decided to go with a Grendel because the 308’s recoil especially sucked, I thought the terminal ballistics were comparable and it was lighter weight. Decided to go with 308 again because ammo is abundant, not as many manufacturing issues, and I learned I could tame down the recoil with some JP products and a brake. I’m not saying I know better than you guys, but why would what I’m asking for not eat ammo? Plenty of people have these products and claimed they never had issues.

I hear that term thrown out a lot, and it seems when people criticize it most, others are quick to defend its’ reliability and that they 100% trust their life with it in an emergency, and that some sharpshooters have been using the same precision equipment thousands and thousands of rounds, been in all kinds of crappy weather, and probably wouldn’t spend the thousands of dollars it took to build their firearm if that just wasn’t the case. Are you saying these JP systems aren’t reliable? If so, in what environment? I could see that like when they first began releasing certain products, but over the years they also had time to develop, modify and increase the lifespan of them. I’m not defending either side myself, maybe a bit of devil’s advocate. I could see that too because you are using different material to achieve that. I can put a good brake on which reduces 60+% of the firearm’s recoil, and if you couple that with an AGB that’s been engineered to withstand more than that even, with strong material where it’s needed and lighter material where it’s not as much. I don’t know the science and energy of using a titanium firing pin vs a steel, and the force being exerted and how many times that pin can take it. From everything I’ve seen so far, these JP products are very reliable. And the parts that need to take the brunt of the energy are strong and the others they cut down on the weight. My biggest concern, for ANY AR system would be weather and exposure to different things outdoors. And like I said, in that kind of situation I would prefer an AK but I simply don’t see the need for all that where I live. I might be advocating JP products here now for no reason at all. But if I’m wrong about it, how so?

I mean would the JP LMOS be a bad idea then? And their SCS? I would also assume a good, heavy Krieger barrel would be reliable as well.. and tuning the gas and buffer and putting a good brake on it to get rid of some of the recoil energy.. I mean if I was going for that kind of guerrilla, Vietnam reliability I’d just get an expensive ak, but I also wanted it to have precision out to 2-300 yards for hunting. And be able to put some range time in every once in a while. And not using really heavy grains.

I would assume getting high quality parts and spending a bit of money would net me a reliable rifle..

I figured I was going to have to call whoever I buy from anyways, since I’m being really picky. But that’s good to know too. I heard great things about Krieger groupings. I would do JP but from what I’ve seen so far, getting a better barrel from JP can be luck of the draw sometimes. Just seems that Krieger is a very consistent manufacturer with close groups compared to others. What do you think about the rifling? I heard it doesn’t really make a difference for the .308 at least, and most people get a 6 or 5 groove. If I had the option I was going to do 4, but then again rifling is probably the thing I am least studied up on, that and types and grades of metals and steel.