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ColinGSeries

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Everything posted by ColinGSeries

  1. Thanks! My SnapCaps are coming today so I can do some initial feed testing. I already have a great Dremel and I'm sure my Ace stocks these. I'm assuming these are 455 grit from the package, so should I also look into some finer-grit sandpaper for finish polishing?
  2. I just checked my receiver and barrel feed ramps after reading this post, and I have M4 ramps on my barrel and receiver BUT it appears that the receiver feed ramps are not quite "large" enough, as they stand proud of the barrel feed ramps. Should I look to dremel them down to match the barrel, or just shoot and observe to see if it causes problems?
  3. Thanks! So you’re saying the ArmaLite is the best option, with the Springco/KAK option second? Why one over the other? Does the longer buffer tube in the AR-10 kit reduce recoil impulse further? Here is a picture of the marring on my buffer:
  4. Hi guys! My build is progressing. I now have all the parts and tools ordered for my Stag 10 build! I'm just waiting for the last shipments to arrive and it's BUILD TIME! For a refresher, here is my build: Stag 10 Blem Receivers Stag 10 UPK/LPK Stag 10 Carbine Buffer Kit - More on this later BA 18" Stainless Heavy Barrel w/ VG6 Epsilon Muzzle Device Toolcraft NiB BCG SLR Rifleworks Sentry 7 AGB w/ Odin Works Rifle Length Gas Tube Aero Precision 15" ATLAS S-One Handguard Trybe Defense Ambi Charging Handle Hogue Overmolded Carbine Stock Bering Optics Prismatic Supra 3.0x32mm Optic Now I am in the mockup stage as I wait for the last couple parts to arrive, and I had a couple of questions/concerns about my rifle. Headspacing is good and the functions I can test right now (bolt catch, going into battery, mag release, safety selector, and better-than-expected trigger) all work great. However, it appears that my buffer is striking the retainer plunger lightly when I charge the rifle. Here are the details on my action from front to back: I have a rifle length gas system with an adjustable gas block I have my BCG, which is just under 8-7/16" when closed (like when the bolt is in battery and the buffer is decompressed) I have a DPMS Carbine tube (7" inner depth) and this tube sits flush with the inside edge of the "hoop" when installed I have an 11" buffer spring with 24-25 coils I have a 2.5" buffer that weighs 3.866oz Now I have some questions about this. I read on other forums that buffer tubes striking retainers is bad, and could mean that the hole for the retainer is out-of-spec, or something else. Based on what I have provided, what do you think is causing my striking issue? Keep in mind that these strikes are light, leaving less of an impression than a primer strike. It also appears that my BCG is "picking up" the buffer as I close my receivers, but only a little bit. From what I have read, it appears that the simplest solution is to install an offset buffer retainer to move it further away from the in-battery position of the buffer. Do you all agree on this? And since I am already assessing my buffer system, I have seen many times on here that OEM DPMS buffer systems like mine are not optimal for these builds. I have seen Springco Orange springs and various buffers listed as suggestions for upgrades, and I figure if I'm already going to be upgrading/changing part of my buffer system I may as well upgrade the whole system. So what would you guys recommend as a good buffer system to pair with my gas setup? Thanks in advance!
  5. I understand this part of it, I know the type of system doesn’t have to match, my question is that, knowing I have the Stag carbine buffer kit like OP does, will I have to also get the spring and buffer you suggested, or will simply adjusting my gas block accordingly take care of the issue? Or alternately, is under-buffed and over-gassed the same thing with interchangeable solutions, or do they need to be addressed specifically? Or are there some benefits I’m not aware of to addressing gas/buffer system balance a certain way? I saw in another thread someone had mentioned that, for example, a heavier buffer can change the ejection pattern of the rifle but adjusting the gas system cannot.
  6. So in reading this thread and knowing what my build is using related to the gas system: Stag 10 buffer + tube kit Rifle Length gas port with an SLR Rifleworks Sentry adjustable gas block Am I going to need to look into this as well, or do you think just adjusting my gas block will prevent issues like this? Is there a benefit to addressing this issue by changing the spring and buffer vs. tuning the gas block? Because if so I may want to just return this buffer and tube kit and source the parts individually.
  7. Hi guys! I recently made a couple more purchases towards my Stag 10 build mentioned in my intro thread! As an update, here is what I have so far: - Stag 10 Upper/Lower Receivers (BLEM) with standard Stag 10 UPK, LPK, Carbine Buffer, and Carbine Buffer Tube - Toolcraft NiB BCG -Ballistic Advantage 18" .308 Stainless Heavy Barrel with rifle length gas porting and a VG6 Gamma 762 Muzzle Brake (Nitrided) - Aero Precision Atlas S-One 15" Handguard - SLR Rifleworks Sentry 7 Adjustable Gas Block (Black) with Odin Works Stainless Rifle Length Gas Tube - Trybe Defense Ambi Charging Handle - RighttoBear Ambi Safety Selector - 3x Maggpul PMag 25rd w/ Window (for M110 rounds) - I also have a headspacing gauge set on the way, along with a vise and upper receiver vise block for putting it all together All I have left to source for my initial build is my shoulder stock and optic. And for these I have a couple of questions: 1. Does anyone know of a place where I can find small parts for an M4 OEM stock, and maybe a rubber recoil pad? My friend who's a vet has a few and he'll give it to me for free but it's missing all the small parts that hold it on the buffer tube. 2. After looking at the cost of decent iron sights, I'm thinking of jumping straight to a low/no magnification, affordable dot optic with a large objective lens. The initial build is meant to be shot shorter distances (50-100yds) with maybe some deer hunting. I would prefer a reticle with some ballistics markings, and green illumination is a bonus. What does everyone recommend or advise? 3. In a similar vein, I have a Mosin Nagant build that I'm looking for 100+ yard range on for target shooting and hunting. This gun is meant to be shot off a bipod or shouldered, no illumination, ballistics markings, and adjustable magnification in the 3x+ range. Objective lens on the larger size but I'm limited to around 50mm, and honestly I don't even know what to do about eye relief, but my thought is I'll need a few inches. Again looking for advice or recommendations. Thanks in advance for your help!
  8. Oh yeah, gotta make sure that whatever I get is a DPMS High design
  9. I was more probing to see if there were any favorite brands. I'm guessing there's a handguards thread somewhere on here I need to read? I really like the AP Atlas S-One and the Diamondhead VRS-T. Generally speaking, The only rail sections I'll need for certain are 12 o'clock for an iron sight and (in the future) a scope, and 6 o'clock for a foregrip of some kind and a bipod up front. I'm 5'10" and I don't have huge hands so extra width isn't so much of a need. There's a VRS-T Keymod blem on sale for only $130 @ Stag Arms right now which I like, but it's 13.5" and has a swept back front which could cause it to not cover the gas block depending if that 13.5" is the length of the upper (shorter) or lower (longer) portion of the handguard. I reached out to Stag to see if the 13.5" is the bottom measurement or top, but I haven't heard back from them yet. Diamondhead doesn't list it on their site either, unfortunately.
  10. Thanks for the tip! I'm hoping with my buffer tube and buffer set and my receivers all coming from the same company it should be good to go out of the box but I'll be sure to double check that. One thing I'm also going to be sure to check is my headspacing after reading some threads on here, seeing as my Toolcraft Bolt and BA Barrel aren't of the same manufacture to each other AND my upper receiver. Are the Clymer Gauges for about $58 what people recommend or use? I'm thinking I'll need to do the same with my Mosin's bolt after it comes back from having an extended bolt handle install and a good polish.
  11. Stag Arms makes a lefty DPMS pattern AR-10 (don't let the receiver parting line fool you as it's just their thing). Very good quality stuff. I'm a lefty as well but I'm building my own with a blemished receiver set from them that's righty - sadly all they had for blem. Even blem parts are great though. I have a couple tool marks but even those are minimal because the finish is still excellent and covers it well. https://www.stagarms.com/stag-10-firearms/?_bc_fsnf=1&Caliber=.308&Ejection+Orientation=Left-Handed+Ejection
  12. That's what I was thinking to start with. Any suggestions on a handguard, ambi charging handle, foregrip, iron sights, or muzzle device? I'm open to ideas and suggestions here. I'm looking for a handguard that is affordable, covers my gas block (so probably no less than 15"), has keymod or mlok on the sides/bottom, and as an added bonus the sort of split top-rail design like an Atlas S-One does. The charging handle needs to be ambi as well, I was thinking a Radian Raptor LT but again open to other more affordable suggestions. I'm totally new to the AR platform, I've read a lot about the technical aspects but I lack the tribal knowledge for some parts about who makes the best stuff and for the best price.
  13. The adjustable gas block is more to allow me to fine tune things in the future as this is an evolving build. For now it will be a more of a basic rifle with iron sights and a carbine stock, but eventually I want to move to a rifle stock + bipod and maybe a suppressor build.
  14. I googled AR-10 Forum and this came up around the top.
  15. Hi everyone! My name is Colin, and I am new to the AR family from Metro Detroit, MI. I'm a long time gun owner who currently has a Ruger 1911 Target, Cajunized CZ SP-01 Tac, and a Mosin Nagant. I've always wanted to build an AR, and finally got the train rolling after purchasing a stripped, blem Stag-10 upper/lower receiver from Stag Arms, among a bunch of other parts as well. Looking forward to discussing with you guys, and I'm sure I will have a lot of questions as things advance, but I'm fairly far along in my build already. So far I have in my possession or on order: Stag-10 Blem Upper/Lower with Stag-10 UPK and LPK Stag-10 Carbine Buffer and Tube, with a carbine shoulder stock I'm sourcing from a buddy who was 82nd Airborne Toolcraft NiB complete BCG Ballistic Advantage 18" .308 Stainless Barrel w/ rifle-length gas porting on a .750 journal SLR Rifleworks clamp-on Sentry 7 adjustable gas block and an Odin Works rifle-length gas tube RTB ambi saftey selector because I'm a lefty Some thoughts on what I have pulled together so far would be appreciated, along with advice regarding the parts I have left to source (handguard, flip sights for now, muzzle device, and probably a foregrip of some kind) would be greatly appreciated. I already know about the difference between DPMS (which the Stag receivers are aside from the AR-10 style cut line between the upper and lower) and AR-10 pattern, but was hoping for the sort of tribal knowledge you can only get on forums like these. The goal here is to build a solid but affordable AR-10 initially that will start out relatively basic but will be built into a DMR-type with a bipod and magnifying optic, possibly for deer hunting. So far I've spent $872 on what I've assembled out of $1200 MSRP-worth of parts by looking for sales and blem parts where I could find them. The initial goal was to come in at or under $1000 for the initial build but at this point I don't think that will be possible.
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