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ok, I just assumed they took all of their individual parts and threw em' in a box. I wonder why DPMS doesn't offer this?

great, thanks. Now I just have to call and see if they'll knock off some $ if I have them keep the grip and trigger guard

I'm about to start a build, and need a LPK. I already have the trigger that I want to go in the gun, so I need to find a LPK without a trigger. I just don't want to pay for something I'm not going to use. Any suggestions appreciated. Thanks I also already have a grip, but I don't think anyone sells kits without grips. It's no big deal, I don't see the cheapo grips they send with the kits being a high dollar piece.

thanks <thumbsup>

would you mind posting a picture of it?

Check this thread out, it should answer your questions http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=121&t=527504

I have a 308 chamber. While I don't regularly shoot surplus ammo, I will on the occasion, but the 308 chamber is the one that can handle the higher pressure, the 7.62nato is rated for less. Look at all the guys shooting 5.56 out of a 223 chamber. Have you ever heard of anything bad happening? I haven't. Ultimately, this is a personal preference. If I were in your position, I wouldn't think twice about it, I'd shoot whatever works well. In that sense, don't buy an entire case of anything, shoot a little, and inspect all of the spent brass for bulges, flattened or popped out primers. You should also check around on ar15.com and DPMS's own forum for sure, it is www.dpmsinc.com/forum. I'm sure the same issue has been addressed many times. You could always eliminate any issue in question, by reloading your own ammo.

Welcome, and congrats on your new rifle. Others may disagree, but I would run any type of ammo though it that you can get. I've never had a problem with any kind of surplus or bullet weight. I just wouldn't run anything corrosive. As far as prepping the rifle, do the recommended break in procedure that dpms suggests. It will take a long time if you do it correctly, but you will be rewarded. When you are doing that, it's important to get a true copper solvent. I use Montana Xtreme copper killer 50bmg formula. The most important part about the process is to strip the copper fouling out of the bore, so the next round can help "knock down, and smooth out" machining marks. I have the 24" bull, and have not found a type of ammo that doesn't shoot at least 1.5 moa at 100yds, and it's not hard finding stuff that will shoot .5 moa, for me. Good luck with it. <thumbsup>

off the subject, but im in the same boat, as far as switching out uppers. What stock are you running? I keep looking for a compromise between a lightweight/tactical, and sturdy long range stock. I haven't had any luck :( I may end up just keeping the a2 stock on if I have to.

Awesome!! I'm looking to get an oracle upper to switch back and forth with my 24" upper. May I suggest the Rock River 2 stage match trigger. I picked one up locally for $90 and would say it is on par with the accutrigger that is in my savage. It made a world of difference. Did you do the suggested break in procedure, or just start shooting? My 24" shot like crap for about the first 75 rounds during the break in, but just seems to be getting better and better. It's finally to the point that my bore isn't completely coated with copper after every mag.

Hello, I have the exact same scope on my lr308. I have the standard height upper with high rings. I've never had an issue of brass hitting my scope, ever. My upper does have the brass deflector, but the rifle shoots the brass out the side, not up, so even without the deflector, I don't think it'd hit. I've never heard of anyone having an issue like this. The eyepiece of my scope hangs over my charging handle about an inch. I have no problem cycling a round. I wouldn't worry about anything, mount your scope with whatever rings suit your cheek weld, and enjoy your rifle. hope it helps. <thumbsup>