Goofball310

I've been away on a extended vaca from here but I come bringing good news. Noveske is clearing house of its old model N6 parts and has them for sale on their site to make room for the Gen 2 model coming out in a few weeks. So if you've wanted a SWS Noveske rail without paying the high mark up you need to visit their site now. They have 10.3", 13.9", 13.9" with switchblock cut outs, and gun fighter charging handle. Noveske has never sold these rail separately from their factory built rifles and will not be sold again once this limited stock is out. Just a note that barrel nuts need to be purchased separately through SWS. For those of you unfamiliar with ordering barrel nuts from SWS they come with 2 for $110. Each nut has a different screw pattern for the rail to attach and line up with your receiver. You keep the one that works and ship the other one back to SWS for a refund. (***Tried finding that info on SWS' website but couldn't find it but this is the way it used to work***)

$20k is for the entire restoration. I have no plans for a frame off or rotisserie build at this moment and I can do a lot of the disassembly and reassembly myself. That $20k amount is not set in stone and can quickly change once I get the car in my possession. I really need to assess the quality of the body work and paint job that was done a few years ago to see determine how much I will have to spend towards the motor.

Total budget I'm trying to stay under $20k and would like to finish it this year but of course both of those figures mean nothing when restoring a car. I think I am gonna stay with the 383. My goal of 600hp was with some form of forced induction but after more thought I really just want a dependable Sunday cruiser and not a weekend drag car.

SLR rilfeworks offers the same design except their GB is windowed and you can adjust the detent tension.

There's a few companies that I've narrowed down to do the body restoration: US Car tool Empire Mopars Hodge Restoration Jeff Lilly Does anyone have any other recommendations? Trying to stay away from Cali as their costs tend to be higher than other states. I know they have more builders than any other state but I can get more for less from other places.

This is what I was hoping for with this restoration. A lot of input because from people that have experience because I am absolutely clueless about this car. .

bwahahaha

The only thing I don't want to do is turn the car it into a full restomod. Not that I don't like them but because the car sits 80%ish complete and original I would feel guilty.

Feel free to share any info about the swap here. I plan to document both the car and AR build in this thread. After you mentioned the swap you had done in your car I gave it some thought but that leaves me with these 2 motors. I can sell the 392 to help fund the project and buy the newer 392 hemi. Then I'd have to decide if I want to go EFI, carb'd, direct ignition packs, or distributor.

I knew I shouldn't have been browsing around the site..... Well, I've decided to hold on to my Noveske's and proceed with building another AR while trying to restore my Dad's 71 cuda. Money will be be tight between the two projects but I hope to have them both done in a timely manner. I'll try and use this thread to document both builds. AR Upper: Mega MKM extended rifle length Barrel: 6.5 Creedmoor 20" Proof Research BCG: JP low mass carrier Gas block: SLR rilfeworks DA7 adjustable Charge Handle: Raptor ambi CH Brake: Surefire SFMB-762 Sights: Troy folding Lowers: Mega MKM LPK: Armalite Trigger: Geissele national match Buffer tube: Armalite rifle length Buffer: Armalite rifle length Buffer Spring: JP polished & tuned spring Grip: Magpul MIAD Stock: Magpul PRS w/ extended butt-pad Selector: BADASS ambi Misc Bi-pod: Atlas Scope Mount: Bobro Scope: Trijicon TARS And for the car: It's a 1971 383 cuda that's originally Vitamin C orange with a 727 torqueflite transmission. The original motor is on a stand in the garage as well as a 392 hemi. I'm not sure what motor is in the car right now but definitely not going to keep it in there. I'm looking to restore the car to be a sunday cruiser and not a trailer queen with roughly 600hp to the wheels. So the restoration is not going to be a rotisserie resto but I do plan on replacing, rebuilding, cleaning, blasting, and powdercoating just about everything. I'm hoping some of you guys can help me decide on which motor to throw put into the car. I can throw in the 383 and get the original drivetrain back together or throw in the 392 hemi just because.

Mine says Larue on it and yours doesn't. :)) On a serious note, the DPMS can shoot as well as Larue but will need a bit of tweaking depending on which model you buy originally. Your best inital investment is going to be a trigger. Depending on what you intend to do with the rifle will help narrow down what which trigger to buy. For ammo dumps, home defense, and accuracy up to 100 yards I like single stage triggers. On rifles that I shoot past 100 yards I prefer two stage triggers. When you start buying custom AR's you're paying for proprietary parts, tighter tolerances, and additional parts that you may or may not need (ambi selectors, ambi charge handles, etc). A few builders like Larue/Christensen/GAP stand by their product and guarantee sub MOA rifles out the door. That doesn't mean DPMS can't shoot sub MOA out of the box cause I've seen a few that have but that is just not the norm.

Thanks a lot 98! The more time goes by, the more I want to keep the rifles. It'll just slow up the restoration and I have nothing but time for that.

Not really. I was just hoping to give the people on this forum the opportunity to pick it up first.

Thanks for the offer. I just need to sell these and ship/pick up the car.

Hey Geist, Glad to see you here as well brotha.