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Everything posted by DD_Raptor
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Thanks planeflyer21 for that info. I make them change it to a low style rail then. Then I think the scope mount will work perfectly with that extra ~ 1/16". And thanks to you too blue109.
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Tell me how to tell you it's an actual DPMS brand upper then I'll let you know. I do agree that a older style (which I think I may have) is mismatched and needs a lower troy rail. Again I am just assuming by what I see and what people say.
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Ok you totally lost me there me dude. Please explain to me your comment of : Looks like it's a DPMS HIGH free float rail on a DPMS LOW upper I think I know what your referring to , but methinks its more than that. like total alignment between the lower, barrel(upper and the mounted Troy rail., Just seems outta line to me. Maybe not as I am not even close to a Novice when it comes to weapons.
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I love this T-shirt... never mind can't post it
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Again the post edit time limit bites my arse. Blue I'll try your ring base placement theory, however I don't think it will matter because of the troy rail as explained below above. Hopefully it's clear as mud.
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Thanks for all the replies guys, man this thing has been a mother every step to the way on everything. So my nephew came by tonight while I was fricking around with the weapon. So we mounted the scope on the 1st rail of the Troy rail JFF. It looked good and level both ways, but when we bore sited it, I ran out of elevation before center. So that's a no go, but the cap fit perfectly Put is back on just the DPMS rail leveled and were able to bore site like you would expect. Man... I have noticed in the past that the troy rail sits noticeably higher than the DPMS rail. and also a large gap between the lower/upper receiver (for lack of proper terminology) as well as the barrel doesn't (I presume it should) sit squarely in the center of the free floating rail. Or am I being anal? Hit me up with thoughts dudes... I have to figure this out while under the shops warranty. I am sure they will honor any problem I have for at least 6- 8 months. Any way the picts.
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No, No and No That is just a test fit with all bolts snug but not torqued. Don't have an in/lb torque wrench anyway.
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I was out at Gander Mt today and ran across these Burris Rings. Man so close, the front cap won't quite fit on though. Luckily he said I could return them if the didn't work.
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Darn edit time limit...LOL Anyway I was going to add that I am going to take er out this weekend and see if the gas block and tube swap fixed my problems. I sure hope it does. So I'm not really in a hurry to solve the ring/mount issue, but I will.
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Thanks for that info. but not sure if want to go that way. The Warne ultras highs I'm looking at are the quick detach type. (Burris also I think) Has any one used these, do they always latch properly and tight after use? the bolt type are hard to find.
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Thanks for the formula CoBrien, I was going to ask blue that since he mention my rail/rings. Right now I have a Truglo 1/2" rail and the rings are 1" Leupold. So using your formula 50mm - 1" / 2 = minimum height. Therefore 1.96850394" - 1" / 2 = .48425197 for Warne, others add .5 = .98425197 ~ .016 clearance(based on 1" ring)...correct? Which ain't much to me. Also On a Nikon 1 piece rail M-308 has a built in 20 MOA Slope. I know it means Minute of Angle but that's about it. I don't think it would work for me in that respect. But I really can't seem any specs on it either nor the M-223 Remember I'm very new to Rifles/scopes and so on so I may have a lot of explain to me questions. Only Rifle ever fired before this was an M16 with iron sites. LOL Also thanks to all of you for your time and valuable input.
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Ok sent the UTG back and picked up a Vortex Crossfire II 3-9 X 50 V-Biite at a local store. Do you guys think I should move the scope forward?
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Thanks for all the replies peeps, your input is very helpful. Here is what I did JFF. I ordered the UTG+3-12X44+30mm scope from Amazon for a look see because they are real good on returns. I received it today and when un-boxing , you could clearly tell it was previously unboxed item, returned and then sold as a new item. Looked the scope over, played with it a bit and all looked serviceable but I just can't stand the thought of it being previously unboxed and sold as new. So I sent it back with full refund. I am not saying UTG is bad or any thing like that and had it had been new unboxed previously, I'd probably would have kept it to give it a whirl. I mean it looked good to me anyways, A pic for you. It said pull this tab to remove the protective film. Well there was no such animal to pull.
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Sorry for that double post there was using the phone. NE way I've been doing a little research on this and still undecided. One question I have now, is could a peep use like a magnifier behind the Trugol for magnification? Could I get some experienced pros/cons? Could someone tell me if I got say a 3-12x44 what would be the max range in yards? Thanks for posting that offer Shepp. I am considering it as an option, but I am liking the Leapers UGT as a entry level scope for me. (not saying yours isn't an excellent buy) I am liking what I am reading about the Vortex brand
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Thanks for all of the replies guys. On our way to Vegas with grandkids. Holler when we get back ?
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Thanks for all of the replies guys. On our way to Vegas with grandkids. Holler when we get back ?
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I'm looking for close range to 100 -150 yards mainly target shooting. I would like a both eyes open sight but doesn't have to be. ~up to $150. I'm cheap! Thinking of something along these lines. Aipai 3 in 1 Rifle Scope C4-12x50EG I also kind of like this one. UTG 3-12X44 30mm Compact Scope, AO, 36-color Mil-dot, Rings
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Hey peeps gotta a question for ya... I want a good scope with magnification (getting hard to see these days) and a red/greed laser you can actually see. I currently have a Truglo 8230 three RGB. I love it but at 1x @ 25 yds I have to squint to even get closely focused. I know I'm blind. I also have a Sight Mark LoPro Combo SM25004 which I can never find the green dot. LOL Again I guess I am blind. I want to change these out to something sort of like that but better. I don't know much about this sorta thing and want to lear to have the best shooting experience a person can have. Other thoughts to come.. Thanks in advance!
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Great acritical. Burn the bitch!
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Ok I went to another local Pawn Shop and asked them if they had a DMPS LR-308 Oracle. He brought one from the back in an unopened box. I aske dif he mined mt taking a picture of the tube length in the receiver chamber. Here's what it shows. I wished I had a little better focus from my phones camera though. What do you guys think?
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I don't think he's an actual gun smith by trade, seems knowledgeable, but that doesn't make a gun smith no doubt. I am thinking he put the block about where I had it eyeballed on one of the above pictures. Anyway we shall see. Also I mentioned the barrel nut extension area but he just kind of blew that off. It was like Really! If I still have problems I guess I'll spring for an armorers wrench and upper or lower vice block or both? And Suggestions would be appreciated. And I appreciate you peeps taking the time to assist me figuring this out.
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Update: I took it to the pawn shop dude and showed him the gas tube length. He agreed it look short. He immediately (not busy there) took the gun back to their gun shop while I waited. About 30 minutes later he came back and said he changed the gas block to a YHM and gas tube to a CMMG. He said at first the though it was a littles longer but it wasn't, so he changed it anyway. He said he fired off 5 rounds without problems and it locked back after last shot. In the picture below the tube looks even shorter, it looks like he moved the block back a bit. Now I am just comparing it to the little circle on the bottom there. So the is really no change in the length of the tube. I guess I'll just have to wait to see for my self one I can get back to the farm, which right now is looking like about the 8th of July. :-( Top picture now Bottom before
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Now that funny...









