DD_Raptor

Dude you need to back OFF MY ASS! Leave me alone!

Thank you for the vote of confidence.

Thank you for the vote of confidence.

Well I don't want to screw, do or tattoo every one in the room, but I have to learn to disassemble totally, and reassemble a working weapon as it is now. NP, I got this!!!

So for the better part of four days I have tried to educate myself in AR/LR building. God I do not even know how many total building assembly videos I have watched. I Feel that I was dished, and made out to be stupid. But no matter no problems. CHEERRS! I have now procured all the necessary tools to totally disassemble my LR-308. Every bolt , nut, screw, roll pin, springs and so on. Then rebuild it ground up. Good training right. Currently, I am looking at MEGA matched upper/lower. SSA trigger and Magpul PRS. The rest is still up in the air.

I am loving this scope!

In light of recent comments which were deleted, I request that this thread be fully deleted to avoid and futther conflicts with current members. Love you guys!

Thank you Shepp!

Ok now that I have narrowed down the stripped lower, lets talk about the stuff that makes it go bang. But not to include the stock or related assemblies. How do choose the trigger group? Forged/non forged, safety thingy, not to mention all those little springs, pins and such in there.

Well it seems as if it doesn't really matter (outside of polymer) which one you choose. I do like the fact as jtallen83 mentions the trigger guard. To me that's just one less worry, component to buy. So for now I want a billet stripped receiver. Check! Aero, TM, BRO to be determined later.

Thanks for that link shepp! I was fixing to look er up.

I like the Aero Freedom lower Don't need AMBI. But can you tell me why I should choose billet over cast, or vise versa, which I think your referring to.

Well we're talking stripped lowers for the builds I am planning. 223/5.56. But there are so many brands, prices (which most are out of stock) it's hard to know what to choose. Well at least for me any ways. I did find a BRO Spec 15 stripped lower for ~ $119. Is that good, bad, ok? Do I need an BRO Spec 15 upper? See theses are things I do know in my newness to the sport. Again just planning stage.

I noticed all of the out out stock listings also. Here comes a big price jump. I may have to wait if it does.

Thanks for the replies guys. 300 blackout,(thinking it was a black rain) man I saw one of those a gun show a few months with a twisted barrel. Man I went nuts over it, until I saw what they were asking fir it. LOL Right now one build is for me the other is for my SNL. I assume though the only difference would be the 300 barrel and the lower the same so lets talk lowers right now. My question are Brand, stripped vs complete.

I want a carbine 16" maybe 18" barrel to be used for some hunting mainly target but could also be used for SHTF. Maybe shoot both 223 or 5.56 rounds. Not to heavy like my 308.

Not sure will have to research. I didn't even know that page existed. LOL Thanks! Will read those articles.

I want to plan a build of two 223's. Which I am assuming will be identical. We know nothing (very little) about building a weapon and are willing to be schooled in the proper selection of parts and all tools involved. I want a general discussion of each part and why I want to choose it, over the other. Where to start? If this is not the proper place for this thread please move it.

Took the rifel in today for the pawn shop dude to look at the rail. All he said was yelp it a HP on a LP DPMS. Picked up a new LP rail and installed. I went hope a happy camper. and the scope and cover fits perfectly. I think I'm finally good to go... Again you guys are really knowledgeable and I really appreciate all of you for your input.

For to fire it (~80 rounds) over the weekend and am happy to report that it worked perfectly. I now know it was the gas system some how. I can't be sure which, but after him changing the gas block/tube and I sure he moved the block a little forward it worked. My money is on the gb moving. Anyway a big THANKS for all of you guys input and knowledge.

Here's the link for the 3D bridge. 3D Steel Bridge

Nice looking weapon there blue. I tell you 3D printing is something else man. I read some where someone was building a small bridge with 3D printers. If I can find the link i'll post it. But those throw levers are pretty cool man.

Ok guys I am thinking I have the new Upper that is lower. The troy rail I have is P/N MRF-308 -HP-1. I think the LP version MRF-308 is what I need. What do you guys think? With the calipers I measured .150 which is more than 1/8" but less than 3/16".