Lr-308FUn

Price drop $80.00 shipped Will take PayPal for payment Please bump

Please Bump, thank you. Will take $90.00 shipped.

Got this UTG Pro 15" high profile handguard for sale. Will take PayPal for payment asking $100.00 shipped Has all mounting hardware included.

I have been shooting steel case ammunition for decades with no issues ever. This is why this this baffles me. I have set the gas block to steel case 308 Winchester, locks back on one round fired, does the same with brass case, but when I load the magazine with brass I get malfunctions but not with steel case.

Nope none of it is, I've tuned the gas block to lower powered 7.62x51 and it will lock back on one round fired. But won't feed a full magazine of any brass case but will on same setting feed steel case fine.

Thanks, will try this have a standard spring installed and 5.3 oz buffer.

Hello, I did a content search and couldn't really find my issue. Now to start things out here are the build specs. Upper Receiver: Caliber 308 Winchester Aero M5 Upper with Aero upper parts kit. Lantac Mil-spec BCG for 308 with Springco extra power extractor spring Aero Breach charging handle Faxon 308 pencil rifle barrel, rifle length gas system/ gas port drilled out to .101" from original .089", using Armalite rifle length gas tube. Aero Precision adjustable gas block Precision Armament M4-72 muzzle brake UTG Pro M-LOK handguard Lower Receiver: Aero M5 lower with Aero M5 lower parts kit Hyperfire Enhanced duty trigger Aero M5 Enhanced buffer kit with Springco Orange spring/ Expo Arms 2.5" 5.3 oz buffer MFT Battlelink extreme duty butt stock 2-25 round Magpul magazines 2-10 round Magpul magazines Had the issues describe below with all 4 magazines when using brass case ammunition, so I ruled out the magazines. Now, my issue is, this rifle will fire and without issue feed steel case ammunition of any kind. But when I try any brass case ammo, I get FTF, FTE, stove pipes you name it. I am at this time at a loss. I timed the adjustable gas block using 7.62x51 NATO ammunition since it's the lower power of the two. I got it to fire and lock back on one round, then opened up the gas block two more turns to ensure proper functioning. Tested again 3 more times with only one round and locked back each time. When loading my 2-Magpul 10 round magazines fully with the same 7.62x51 NATO spec ammunition it would start having the issues described above. I did use 4 different types of brass case ammunition, Military grade 7.62 M80 ball 146 grain, Winchester M80 FMJ, Federal 150 grain soft point and 150 grain PMC Bronze FMG. Now with the soft point ammunition I could understand since some semi-auto Lr-308/Ar10s won't feed it well due to the soft lead tip. But I was having the same issue with all the brass case ammunition in either 7.62x51 or 308 Winchester. When I would put Wolfe, Tulammo, or any steel case rounds in either magazine the rifle would feed all 10/25 rounds with errors. As soon as I went to brass case it would have the issues again stated above. I even opened up the gas block fully and would still get this issue with brass case ammunition only. I have tried everything to get this build to be as reliable using brass case as it is with steel case. now could my issues possibly be with too much spring? I have been thinking about trying a standard 308 carbine spring with the 5.3 oz buffer and see if that might help with the dwell time. The ejection pattern with all ammunition is around 1 O'clock using current setup. I am also installing a different extractor claw that I had from an Aero Precision BCG. I am sure that it is gassed properly and can't figure out why it will only feed steel case ammunition of any brand flawlessly. Any suggestion will be helpful. Again, things I am going to try, different buffer spring same buffer, different extractor with same Springco extra power extractor spring. The get some of the same ammunition and try again. Thank you, Lr-308FUn

item sold pending funds

Price drop $130.00 shipped

Got this 15" Aero Precision S-1 handguard for sale, asking $140.00 shipped. Please pay the PayPal fees since I am covering shipping costs, thank you.

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Sold pending funds

Price drop $185.00 shipped

Got this Primary Arms SLx FFP 4-14x44 scope with trb Arc reticle. Includes Hiram billet scope mount. Asking, $200.00 shipped, will take PayPal for payment. Thank you,

I got the loc-tight information straight from a barrel supplier and manufacturers. That they do use a green loc-tight on the barrel extension, they put it it's mainly to help the threads from cross threading when the extension is installed. Also, some manufactures don't use it some do. Depends on the manufacture, I was told that Aero/BA use a Green loc-tight type on their barrel extensions before torqueing down the barrel extension. I personally only have seen one barrel extension installed by a gunsmith that has been doing the trade for 40+ years and he also used loc-tight. I guess each to their own when installing a barrel extension. I have been doing this for 20 years and your a know it all POS and your one of those guys that thinks they know everything but really doesn't know jack poop. I didn't fornicate up that barrel, and BA and others, even gunsmiths I've talked to said that it's almost impossible to loosen a barrel extension when installed properly. Again, are you sure you know what your fucking talking about. Wow, for someone that acts like they have knowledge you really seem to bash people when their intelligence is above yours. You are a waste of my time and please keep your opinions to yourself and I am surprised that none of your AR10/Lr-308 and 308 Ars haven't blown up on your face. I have gotten my knowledge from local gunsmiths that have been building these rifles for like 40+ years and have the degrees to prove it. Thank you, and have a nice fucking day.

BA did nothing, they told me that I had to send it back to the supplier were I purchased it from. I did, got a refund, and then purchased the same barrel from a different supplier. The new barrel work well. I had to wait for my BCG, the first one I purchased wasn't headspacing correctly. I returned it and got a new one the new BCG headspace was spot on. I have got about 200+ rounds through it and it performs perfectly.

I used a crush washer, like I always when installing a muzzle brake. When I install a muzzle brake, I hand tighten it down on the crush washer then using a wrench 🔧, I tighten then lossen the brake to season the threads and spread the anti-seize I use on the threads. Doing this slowly aligns the muzzle brake correctly. This also makes sure one isn't cross threading the muzzle threads as well. There is no way that doing this could have caused a barrel extension to come loose. I have done it this way for over 20 years and never had an issue. Also, those barrel extensions are torqued down to 175+ ft lbs and a loc-tight is used as well, one can clearly see in those pics that there is no loc-tight on those threads of that barrel extension. So again I used a s have always used crush washers or jam nuts on all my muzzle brake installs. There is no way doing this muzzle brake installs that the barrel extension could have come loose. There isn't enough torque on the barrel to cause any issues with the extension when installing a muzzle brake. Also, the barrel is in a barrel vise blocks and when timing the brake the barrel moved in the barrel vise jaws, unscrewing from the barrel extension. I always used barrel vise blocks when installing a brake this way there is no tension on the upper when installing a muzzle device. Thank you and have a great day.

I am hoping you know what I mean about timing a muzzle brake, I just saw this above response from you, and when timing a muzzle device like the one I was installing (see pic) you have to align the muzzle device correctly. The holes in the top of the brake (as shown in pic with yellow circle indicating what holes) have to face upwards even with the gas block for the brake to function correctly. I wasn't installing a standard A2 flash hider on this 308 AR. It was the Strike Industries J-comp gen 2. This is what I meant about timing the brake, because after hand tightening the the wholes where on the bottom of the barrel not facing upwards, so I tighten and loosen the brake to slowly orientate the muzzle device, when doing this that barrel extension came loose.

I was just stating that we all make mistakes and that most of us have heard this platform called a AR-10 for decades and I can see how people get the incorrect terminology when it comes to this platform. I wasn't trying to start any disagreement. Just that we are all human, and its human nature if we hear something called something for a long duration of time it then becomes that object even though one might understand that their is a difference. I did also state that I am new to this platform, my gunsmithing was more in the 1911 and older firearms and shotguns and the AR-15 as well, but not the 308 AR/L-r308 or the AR-10. That is why I came to this forum about the AR-10/308 AR/LR-308 platforms to learn the correct way to do this any why their has been so many differences between my first build a few years ago compared to this one. I have been reading the heck out of all the postings I can on headspace, BCGs and buffer and springs when using the carbine buffer tube. I went with a few of the recommendations given by most on this forum and thank you so much for all your answers to my questions.

I agree with you, at times I mess up and call my M5 build a Ar-10 knowing that it isn't a AR 10 but an Lr-308/303 AR. I will admit I know more about the 1911, AR15, and old combloc and other older WW II firearm than I know about the AR-10/308 AR platforms. This is new to me and I am learning. I have heard them called AR10s for decades and now since building my 2nd 308 AR with the Aero Precision parts it has been a huge learning experience for me.

Okay, I am new to this 308 AR builds, I did one about 2 years ago and didn't have any of these issues. I will check it with the other BCG I am getting tomorrow and see if its the same or perhaps right on. I am thinking with what you provided that this BCG might be AR10 spec instead of 308 AR. It is a tight fit to get it to lock up on the no go gauge, I do have the extractor and ejector removed. I had to take the barrel back off cause I forgot to headspace before barrel before assembly.

Yeah I did a search and come up with nothing on the subject that is why I posted an new thread, unless I didn't search for the correct topic.

Hello, I just got my new BA 16" barrel government profile today, and I went to check headspace, with the bolt extractor and ejector removed. I tried the go gauge and the bolt would turn and lock up, a bit sloppy though. Then on the No-go gauge it will at first not close but with a bit of wobbling the bolt it will then lock in tightly and slightly rotate as well. I am wondering if anyone has the dimensions of the LR-308, DPMS profile bolt. I am thinking that this bolt is out of spec or the wrong profile, not DPMS. Here are some pics of the headspace gauges that I purchased and also of the bolt. I marked A. for bolt face depth, B. for locking lug width, C. for locking lug length. Would like all the dimensions of a DPMS profile bolt please if anyone has them. Thank you. I am still thinking this BCGs bolt is out of spec, or isn't the correct profile for this barrel, 16" .308 TACTICAL GOVERNMENT MIDLENGTH AR 308 BARREL, MODERN SERIES.

Not zero tolerance guy, just a measure twice guy, make sure the steps are done correctly. I am sure they will take care of it. Its just frustrating that now I have to deal with taking the time to ship the barrel back, getting a new barrel etc. Also, when it comes to firearm industry I except more higher attention to detail, but yes lemons happen.

I agree with you that they are a good barrel company but my issue is that in the firearms industry they need to stop, slow down and get the job done correctly. I understand that things happen and lemons get passed.