Lr-308FUn

Got this Primary Arms SLx FFP 4-14x44 scope with trb Arc reticle. Includes Hiram billet scope mount. Asking, $200.00 shipped, will take PayPal for payment. Thank you,

I got the loc-tight information straight from a barrel supplier and manufacturers. That they do use a green loc-tight on the barrel extension, they put it it's mainly to help the threads from cross threading when the extension is installed. Also, some manufactures don't use it some do. Depends on the manufacture, I was told that Aero/BA use a Green loc-tight type on their barrel extensions before torqueing down the barrel extension. I personally only have seen one barrel extension installed by a gunsmith that has been doing the trade for 40+ years and he also used loc-tight. I guess each to their own when installing a barrel extension. I have been doing this for 20 years and your a know it all POS and your one of those guys that thinks they know everything but really doesn't know jack poop. I didn't fornicate up that barrel, and BA and others, even gunsmiths I've talked to said that it's almost impossible to loosen a barrel extension when installed properly. Again, are you sure you know what your fucking talking about. Wow, for someone that acts like they have knowledge you really seem to bash people when their intelligence is above yours. You are a waste of my time and please keep your opinions to yourself and I am surprised that none of your AR10/Lr-308 and 308 Ars haven't blown up on your face. I have gotten my knowledge from local gunsmiths that have been building these rifles for like 40+ years and have the degrees to prove it. Thank you, and have a nice fucking day.

BA did nothing, they told me that I had to send it back to the supplier were I purchased it from. I did, got a refund, and then purchased the same barrel from a different supplier. The new barrel work well. I had to wait for my BCG, the first one I purchased wasn't headspacing correctly. I returned it and got a new one the new BCG headspace was spot on. I have got about 200+ rounds through it and it performs perfectly.

I used a crush washer, like I always when installing a muzzle brake. When I install a muzzle brake, I hand tighten it down on the crush washer then using a wrench 🔧, I tighten then lossen the brake to season the threads and spread the anti-seize I use on the threads. Doing this slowly aligns the muzzle brake correctly. This also makes sure one isn't cross threading the muzzle threads as well. There is no way that doing this could have caused a barrel extension to come loose. I have done it this way for over 20 years and never had an issue. Also, those barrel extensions are torqued down to 175+ ft lbs and a loc-tight is used as well, one can clearly see in those pics that there is no loc-tight on those threads of that barrel extension. So again I used a s have always used crush washers or jam nuts on all my muzzle brake installs. There is no way doing this muzzle brake installs that the barrel extension could have come loose. There isn't enough torque on the barrel to cause any issues with the extension when installing a muzzle brake. Also, the barrel is in a barrel vise blocks and when timing the brake the barrel moved in the barrel vise jaws, unscrewing from the barrel extension. I always used barrel vise blocks when installing a brake this way there is no tension on the upper when installing a muzzle device. Thank you and have a great day.

I am hoping you know what I mean about timing a muzzle brake, I just saw this above response from you, and when timing a muzzle device like the one I was installing (see pic) you have to align the muzzle device correctly. The holes in the top of the brake (as shown in pic with yellow circle indicating what holes) have to face upwards even with the gas block for the brake to function correctly. I wasn't installing a standard A2 flash hider on this 308 AR. It was the Strike Industries J-comp gen 2. This is what I meant about timing the brake, because after hand tightening the the wholes where on the bottom of the barrel not facing upwards, so I tighten and loosen the brake to slowly orientate the muzzle device, when doing this that barrel extension came loose.

I was just stating that we all make mistakes and that most of us have heard this platform called a AR-10 for decades and I can see how people get the incorrect terminology when it comes to this platform. I wasn't trying to start any disagreement. Just that we are all human, and its human nature if we hear something called something for a long duration of time it then becomes that object even though one might understand that their is a difference. I did also state that I am new to this platform, my gunsmithing was more in the 1911 and older firearms and shotguns and the AR-15 as well, but not the 308 AR/L-r308 or the AR-10. That is why I came to this forum about the AR-10/308 AR/LR-308 platforms to learn the correct way to do this any why their has been so many differences between my first build a few years ago compared to this one. I have been reading the heck out of all the postings I can on headspace, BCGs and buffer and springs when using the carbine buffer tube. I went with a few of the recommendations given by most on this forum and thank you so much for all your answers to my questions.

I agree with you, at times I mess up and call my M5 build a Ar-10 knowing that it isn't a AR 10 but an Lr-308/303 AR. I will admit I know more about the 1911, AR15, and old combloc and other older WW II firearm than I know about the AR-10/308 AR platforms. This is new to me and I am learning. I have heard them called AR10s for decades and now since building my 2nd 308 AR with the Aero Precision parts it has been a huge learning experience for me.

Okay, I am new to this 308 AR builds, I did one about 2 years ago and didn't have any of these issues. I will check it with the other BCG I am getting tomorrow and see if its the same or perhaps right on. I am thinking with what you provided that this BCG might be AR10 spec instead of 308 AR. It is a tight fit to get it to lock up on the no go gauge, I do have the extractor and ejector removed. I had to take the barrel back off cause I forgot to headspace before barrel before assembly.

Yeah I did a search and come up with nothing on the subject that is why I posted an new thread, unless I didn't search for the correct topic.

Hello, I just got my new BA 16" barrel government profile today, and I went to check headspace, with the bolt extractor and ejector removed. I tried the go gauge and the bolt would turn and lock up, a bit sloppy though. Then on the No-go gauge it will at first not close but with a bit of wobbling the bolt it will then lock in tightly and slightly rotate as well. I am wondering if anyone has the dimensions of the LR-308, DPMS profile bolt. I am thinking that this bolt is out of spec or the wrong profile, not DPMS. Here are some pics of the headspace gauges that I purchased and also of the bolt. I marked A. for bolt face depth, B. for locking lug width, C. for locking lug length. Would like all the dimensions of a DPMS profile bolt please if anyone has them. Thank you. I am still thinking this BCGs bolt is out of spec, or isn't the correct profile for this barrel, 16" .308 TACTICAL GOVERNMENT MIDLENGTH AR 308 BARREL, MODERN SERIES.

Not zero tolerance guy, just a measure twice guy, make sure the steps are done correctly. I am sure they will take care of it. Its just frustrating that now I have to deal with taking the time to ship the barrel back, getting a new barrel etc. Also, when it comes to firearm industry I except more higher attention to detail, but yes lemons happen.

I agree with you that they are a good barrel company but my issue is that in the firearms industry they need to stop, slow down and get the job done correctly. I understand that things happen and lemons get passed.

I agree I could fix but I really don't have the equipment to torque that barrel extension on correctly. So I am going to let BA handle the situation.

It happened when timing the muzzle brake, I am sure you know what that is. I always tighten the brake and back off then tighten and back off, when doing this, the barrel suddenly started to rotate, that's when I noticed that the barrel extension came loose. I know this isn't suppose to happen, you can clearly see in those pics, which I took right after I took off the barrel nut. The barrel extension has no lock-tight or anything on it. The threads where oily, I have never had this happen before out of countless upper builds. I am just sharing this, to show that quality has really slacked here lately on firearm parts. This supposed to be a good barrel company. Again trust me, it did happen when I was timing the muzzle brake, not making this poop up. I also always use aero-shell barrel nut grease on all my threads even the muzzle when installing the brake.

I have been building ARs for decades now and I have never seen this before. Just look at the pics they tell the whole story. The barrel extension unscrewed for the barrel when timing the muzzle brake. This is a Ballistic Advantage 16" .308 TACTICAL GOVERNMENT MIDLENGTH AR 308 BARREL, MODERN SERIES barrel. I have contacted the place where I purchased this from and BA also. I thought I should share this. I know for a fact that this isn't suppose to happen.

I have done research on all the information you provide, thank you again and I found the system that I am going with, I will use the Aero M5 kit but modify it when needed with the Armalite heavy buffer and spring. I also have a left over Springco spring from the first build that I can use with that Armalite buffer. If this doesn't work the Aero M5 kit will be removed and the Aramlite buffer kit will be installed, since I order that one last night as well when I discovered that information in the postings on this forum. Thank you again, and yes I am a gunsmith that is more familiar with older firearms and pistols. When learning one has to learn to crawl before one walks. I thank everyone for all the information and I will post results on here of this current build. I have also discovered that some of those post covering this subject were several years old, and most of the products that were mentioned in those postings are no longer available, or at least with my searching I couldn't find any in-stock anywhere. Thank you have a great day.

Okay, sure I have read that posting you gave me like 3 times now and I am not sure how we got on the wrong page. I am just going to build it like I did the first one which after some tweaking ran like a champ. I have several different buffer tubes and buffers to try in this new build and I am sure I will figure it out just like the first build. I get what your saying the 3.8oz buffer wasn't designed to run in the AR 10 pattern of rifles, I get that the correct weight should be 5.4oz. I don't even use a stand buffer in my AR15 builds I use mostly the Spikes T2 buffer in all my AR 15 builds with the standard carbine spring and they run at an ejection pattern of 3-4 o'clock. Now since I am new at the Ar10 platform is the ejection pattern the same for it as the AR15, I was educated that with the AR15 in 5.56 NATO the ejection should be around that 3-4 O'clock ejection, is that the same for the AR10? I currently have looked at this setup as well for this current build KYNSHOT - Hydraulic Recoil Buffer for AR-10 with collapsible stock (3.25"). I am also considering the Tubb buffer spring also. I have noticed that all current buffers for the Ar 10 rifle seem to be that 3.8oz, and most keep stating to get that Tubb buffer spring.

I am a certified gunsmith but took most of my training in just that 1911s, older firearms as well. I have always been more into custom bolt action and older style firearms like lever actions, shotguns, and the AK 47 rifles. While taking school one course got me into the AR pattern rifles, and I have built several Ar15s but now I am learning on my own since I want to start putting more modern firearm knowledge like the AR-10 platform of rifles, and yes I agree that they won't change the industry stand, I want to come up with a better standard and start possibly in the future making my own designed AR-10 rifles along with 1911s and other platforms as well. I looked up that Tubb CWS system on Brownell's and Midway USA and they have been discontinued. I have even tried his website and he no longer sells the Tubb CWS system. That is why I asked what is currently on the market today for these rifles. All that is on his website are AR10 buffer springs. I also agree that I am not Mr. Stoner or John Moses Browning or any other just upcoming gunsmith with ideas and that is what started the firearms industry we have today Ideas. My instructors are at this time no longer available since I have been graduated for about 2 years now. This is why I decided to start another Ar10, cause the AR15 platform of rifles in all its glorious calibers got boring.

Also, what would you recommend on my current build, I read that posting and saw several different buffer types, I would like to keep the adjustable stock setup. Thanks for all your advice.

Thanks for the information, I will be looking into this. I agree, I would really like to get a set standard for the .308 rifles. I have been thinking about this all through gunsmithing school on what direction to go with getting a set standard for these rifles. I would really like to hear if you have any insight on what you think the industry standard should be for the AR10/L4-308? I would like to get this pattern heading towards the Ar15 when it comes to parts and specs but of course at a larger scale. Thank you again for all the valuable information.

Please enlighten me on my folly, with my first build I tried rifle, carbine from a few other manufactures and the rifle cycled like poop, then I switched to the Aero Precision M5 enhanced buffer kit and it ran like a champ, so please let me know your wisdom good sir, thank you.

Thank you, and I agree that there is NO standard for these rifles, and I think that there should be. Like with my first build, it was a Frankenstein of a build with a mixture of both Armalite and DPMS parts that I was surprised that it even worked, but it did and well. Now this new build having going with what I would call a better barrel manufacture, BA barrel, now having a standard gas tube setup over the BCA barrel using a Armalite gas length setup. I am at this time if I would do another build in like 6.5 creedmore I will be going with BA barrels due to the use of standard AR 15 gas tube usage. I did measure but when I did I looked at the wrong set of measures, I had the measurements wrote down for the first build on the gas tube length and wrote the ones down for the BA barrel in the same gun journal I keep for my gunsmithing logs for my own builds, and I looked at the wrong measurement and ordered the Armalite tube instead of the standard mid-length tube, lucky I had a standard mid-length gas block and tube laying around and used that instead. I love having extra parts laying around. Here is so far my parts list on this build. Upper: Aero Precision M5/ with Aero M5 upper kit Lower: Aero Precision M5/ with extended take down pins Buffer kit: Aero Precision M5 enhanced buffer kit BCG: Guntech .308 BCG/ Recoil Technologies .308 BCG Barrel: Ballistic Advantage 16" Modern series government profile Muzzle brake: Strike Industries Jcomp 2 Gas block: Aero Precision .750 low profile gas block with mid-length Aero gas tube Magpul K2+ grip Magpul ACS-L butt stock Handguard, Just Rails 15" light weight M-lok high profile HG Trigger: Larue Tactical MBT 2-stage flat faced trigger Set of headspace gauges from Brownell's

Well, I was on here back in 2019 and I built a AR-10/Lr-308 and at that time I used a 16" Bear Creek Arsenal barrel. Well this time I used a Ballistic Advantage 16" Modern series Government barrel. Things changed with the gas tubes from the first build to this new one. On the BCA barrel I had to use a Armalite Carbine gas tube, cause the standard mid-length gas tube was to short. Now with the BA barrel I have notice that they use the stand AR 15 mid-length gas tube size, I got a Armalite carbine gas tube and it was way pass the cam pin location in the upper receiver, now with the standard AR 15 style mid-length gas tube it was right in the middle of the cam pin rotation area in the upper receiver. I think that BCA uses Armalite gas measurements and BA uses standard. Now has anyone else noticed this, cause when building this new Lr-308, using Aero M5 upper and lower set, with the only BCG that I could find from a buddy a Guntech BCG, that had the wrong gas rings installed on it and I got it for a steal, I am hoping when I get the handguard this week and after installation of the HG, that it will headspace correctly, this time I got a set of 308 Winchester headspace gauges. I am crossing fingers that this Guntech BCG will be gtg.

This Item was sold locally

Selling my Aero Precision Build Lr-308 Parts list Upper: Aero Precision M5 Handguard: Acme Machine 15" M-lok high profile HG BCA (Bear Creek Arsenal) 16" 1:10 416r stainless barrel (torqued to spec & red lock tight applied) Helius Tactical 1776 muzzle brake with jam nut install Magpul M-lok vertical grip M-lok QD rail attachment Acme Machine Ambi charging handle Acme Machine Nickle Boron BCG Vortex 6-18X44 V-brite retical Scope with Division 1" SPR mount. With bubble lever ( includes original box for scope & scope sunshade attachment. Lower: Aero Precision M5 lower Aero M5 lower parts kit Aero M5 buffer kit Magpul K2+ grip Mapul ACS butt stock Comes with 2-Magpul 20-round mags. Also included is UTG sniper bipod seen in pic, 2 m-lok rails not currently installed on rifle but shown in pics. A 2-point sling is also included. Will ship to FFL or will do local meeting only ( if local meeting, must be willing for bill of sale being filled out) Will Take Paypal for payment only or cash for local meet up. Asking $1,000.00 even Thanks for all interests.