exractor pin

[unforgiven]

Cleaning the BC assy, while on reassy noticed the pin for the extractor would only go on from one side the other end looked like it was egg shaped.Called RRA tech said the other end was factory crimped so the pin would stay put,so it was normal.I talked about cleaning devices he mentioned CAT tool for ar15.I'm thinking about Magna-Matic tool for .308 for inside BC &bolt I'm a little anal about getting the carbon out{a clean rifle is a happy rifle right]what do you guys think?Next was cleaning products I use breakfree CLP almost out trying to finish everything I got and use 1 sol 1 CLP 1 de grease.RRA tech said they use G96 inside and out gonna try next,they got new army contract the syn being the best all around for my temp and conditions check out there web.Shoot on bros.

[Hoot]

Though I prefer Kroil for cleaning and protecting my bores, none of which get stored for extended periods of time, IE more than a few months without being shot and cleaned again. I previously used Breakfree CLP for general weapon cleaning and light lubricating. A fellow turned me on to a free sample of Weapon Shield, made by the fellow associated with FP10 and I must say, the CLP is now relegated to less critical lubrication assignments. The 16 oz bottle of Weapon Shield costs a few dollars more than the same amount of CLP, but my experience with it leads me to not mind paying the difference. Google the product and drop them an email for a free sample.

For heavier lubing, like where metal on metal occurs, especially phosphated and annodized metal on metal occur, you can't beat Dow Corning Molykote G-n Paste. It burnishes into the surface and reduces friction very well. you can get 2.8 ounce tubes of it Here among other places and a tube will last you years. Great on bolt lugs, slides, charging handles and their channels, wherever high pressure friction occurs.

If you MoS2, WS2, or HBN coat your bullets, you can make a close approximation of it by mixing a small amount of the powder in a few drops of CLP or Weapon Shield, to the consistency of grease and applying it. I have treated some AR15 bolts and receiver rails with it and after 1k rounds, the parkerizing or anodizing still hasn't worn off the underlying metal surfaces where they ride on. It's also helpful when applied with a q-tip to the cam pin and mating slot edges. While it won't keep the battering from taking it's toll at the end of it's travel, it will reduce the grooving that it eventually winds up sustaining from friction sliding along the slot edges. Just a few ideas for other clean and lube freaks like me.  ;)

Hoot

[unforgiven]

Thanks brother Hoot I will follow your advice just started with firearms especially stoner type, this is the kind of guidance I need if there is any more of your wisdom you can lay on it would be greatly appreciated Militec and MTF products were mentioned at the range I got other stuff I'm using up to start on the right track my arms don't sit very long either.Shoot on bro.

[Hoot]

Thanks brother Hoot I will follow your advice just started with firearms especially stoner type, this is the kind of guidance I need if there is any more of your wisdom you can lay on it would be greatly appreciated Militec and MTF products were mentioned at the range I got other stuff I'm using up to start on the right track my arms don't sit very long either.Shoot on bro.

Unless they've changed the formulation, I believe Militec, which I have used in the past, only works, or works best on regular steel, but not stainless, chromed or nitrided steel. It also does not work on aluminum. It reacts with steel very well if you heat it up, but it has to be in contact with the steel, not sitting on the surface of whatever the steel is coated with, as in bluing, parkerizing, etc. It worked well for me.

I have not tried "Ed's Red" or other concoctions based upon ATF or MTF, though they have quite a loyal following among those who do.

Hoot