James0822 Posted March 15, 2012 Report Posted March 15, 2012 Howdy all!I was hoping to get my Predator threaded for a comp but my smith just called to say come pick it up, he can't get the handguard loose. He has done a thousand ARs and he claims to have the right tools but can't budge it.I'm not an AR expert at all! Should I find someone else, or is this a common trait with the LAR-8? Has anyone ran into this? Thinking I'll just get the vise block from RRA and get it done but I don't want to ruin the upper either.What do you guys think?James
James0822 Posted March 15, 2012 Author Report Posted March 15, 2012 This is the best picture I have since the upper is still at the smith. The brake is just mocked up so I could see what it looked like. Basically it is a stock Predator with aluminum free float. It appears the nut is part of the handguard but again not an expert by any means!
imschur Posted March 15, 2012 Report Posted March 15, 2012 Do you know if he applied heat? Probably loctited on properly
James0822 Posted March 15, 2012 Author Report Posted March 15, 2012 Not sure about heat. I can ask him about that when I pick it up. I was actually thinking that it would have anti-seize, aluminum on aluminum like that. Loctite probably has some anti-galling property to it though too huh?
James0822 Posted March 15, 2012 Author Report Posted March 15, 2012 While going to college I worked in my uncles hydraulic shop for a couple years. I have busted down 500-1,000 lb dump bed cylinders but the difference was I didn't worry much about damaging anything. Spray a litte paint and they were good to go. I think I'll order the vise block and give it a shot. Thanks!
imschur Posted March 15, 2012 Report Posted March 15, 2012 Keep in mind if it's loctited it's made to withstand a fair amount of heat. Do you have access to a heat gun? You can always tell when the loctite quits, it gives off a sweet smell
James0822 Posted March 15, 2012 Author Report Posted March 15, 2012 Wow it looks like forum member Hoot had the same issue! This maybe a little tougher then I originally thought.I don't have a heat gun. I'm going to check with RRA and see if they use Loctite.
Hoot Posted March 15, 2012 Report Posted March 15, 2012 Wow it looks like forum member Hoot had the same issue! This maybe a little tougher then I originally thought.I don't have a heat gun. I'm going to check with RRA and see if they use Loctite.I asked the same question on the RRA Support Forum over at arfcom and Steve assured me they use only anti-seize, which was exactly what I discovered once I got that miserable thing off. Not my choice in anti-seize, but for sure not Loctite.Did you ever see footage of those oil drillers adding a section of shaft. I suspect RRA uses one of those torque units to match up the next gas tube hole. ;)I've had mine on and off a dozen times using what I consider to be "prudent torque" now and I still can not get it "worked in" enough to line up to that original factory setting.Life goes on...HootEDIT: A standard Bernzomatic torch will work as well. The finish is very heat tolerant as you would expect parkerizing to be.
James0822 Posted March 15, 2012 Author Report Posted March 15, 2012 Good news on the Loctite! I may be wasting my time but I'll try it without heat first since I don't have a torch either. I can always pick one up, nice to have around.
392heminut Posted March 15, 2012 Report Posted March 15, 2012 EDIT: A standard Bernzomatic torch will work as well. The finish is very heat tolerant as you would expect parkerizing to be.I agree. I had to use a propane torch to heat up the handguard on my LR308 in order to get it loose. The heat didn't affect the finish at all.
James0822 Posted March 25, 2012 Author Report Posted March 25, 2012 Update... picked up the upper from the smith and had him show me the strap wrench he uses. I see now why he couldn't bust it, pretty much a joke for any kind of real torque. Came loose for me without heat. My shiny new 18" Ridgid might have had something to do with that though :)
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