Jgun

I've just loaded 100 rds of .308 to test in my LRB m25 build. I loaded 175 SMK's with IMR 4895 powder in new Lapua brass. The COL is 2.8" All of my rds fit the JP case gauge, and I tried a few in my rifle and they all chambered with no problem. I was wondering what the consensus is regarding taper crimping. I've read some info on it that is both pro and con. Some say that it should be done to prevent bullet setback because they will be used in an auto loader, others claim that it is not needed and will have a negative effect on accuracy. So, what do you guys do, crimp or not?

I knew this would happen. I've got almost all the parts to complete my HRA M1 build. I've got the rear sight enroute. The only remaining parts that I need are the small internal receiver parts for the enbloc mechanism. I ought to be able to locate them very soon. So, I get an email from CMP yesterday, saying that my Springfield service grade has shipped and should be here some time this week. I'm still very excited to see what I get with the luck of the draw from the CMP.

Washguy, that Wenig stock on the sporting clays gun is gorgeous, is that tiger maple? I'm planning to try the Lin Speed on my stock. I don't expect it to look "military original" but with the grain figure of the blank I got, I don't think anyone was going to mistake it for a GI stock anyway. One thing I want to do before I start is to C/O some GI stocks to see if the pattern of this aftermaket is close. If not, and if there's enough material on it, I may "massage" it a little to make the surfaces line up better.

Thanks guys, I'm going to order some to test out.

Washguy, After reading tripledeuce's post about the fact that BLO doesn't dry and the stock might get oily in hot weather, I had decided that I would pass on it. I've actually never refinished (or finished) a stock. I remeber working on boats and furniture years ago, but didn't consider any of the finishes that I'd used in the past to be suitable. So after I figure I'll stay away from the BLO, I see your post, and I'm intrigued again. the stock in the link really looks great. have you ever experienced the oil coming to the surface when using the Lin-speed? BTW, thanks for posting the Lin Speed link.

Thanks for sharing you knowledge TD, I have never used most of the products that you named, and I didn't know that that stocks treated with BLO would give up oit when left out in the sun. I don't thinks thats something that I want. I'm also not sure about the 50/50 mix you describe. I've used spar varnish when I worked in a boat yard, and in my memory, it penetrated the wood to some extent, but mostly left a coating on the surface that sealed the wood (unless it was scratched through to the underlying wood). I also recall it being a gloss finish, which I don't want. What I think I'd like would be something that would bring out the contrast of the wood grain if possible, and if it darkend the wood that would be acceptable (but not necessary), but would give a matt or semi gloss apearance, but not be a surface treatment, I want something that will penetrate the wood itself. Would the tru oil you mentioned be likely to give results like that?

Looks to be in pristine shape, good luck with it. I may have to get one of these to round out the collection. please let us know how it does at the range.

I checked out their site and although I've heard that their M1 parts and builds are very good, I'm hoping to get away a little cheaper than what they want for that NM rear sight. Good to know that I've got them as an option if I can't do any better pricewise. Thanks for the lead.

I'm not sure how soon it will be, but I will certainly let you guys know how it shoots once I finish and test it. BTW, Survivalshop, any chance you could post a picture of your rear sight? I still don't jhave a rear sight in hand, and I'm thinking, that since this gun will be an iron sight rifle, I'm going to need all the help I can get, as far as sights go, with my poor eyesight. I see that there are people offering hooded rear apertures with smaller size than offered by USGI hooded sights, and I've also seen someone advertising corrective lense inserts for the hooded sights, but I'm not sure I want to go that far just yet. I'm having a lot of fun researching the different parts and procedures that are used to accurize the M1's, but there's definitely a learning curve here because these M1's are a different animal alltogether than anything I've built before, even the M14 types.

The brake is made by Smith Enterprises. It replaces the gas lock. I think I've found a rear sight, if so, I'll only need to source the small receiver parts to finish the build.

The stock ,as pictured, is bare, unfinished wood. I had t do some fitting to get the barreled action to fit, but I still need to figure out what type of finish to go with, I've been reading about tung oil, and boiled linseed oil, and someone suggested that I use danish oil, (not sure what that is), but I want to get a peice of walnut to test them on before I try it on the actual stock. It looks as though I may end up with two, if the CMP rifle ever arrives, if that happens, I've got an idea to have one of them mounted in a Nigerian type stock. thanks for the compliments, One of these days I'll have a range report.

Can't wait to hear the sound of the enbloc ejecting from My own Garand for the first time..

I ordered a Garand from the CMP a while ago, but when I spoke to my FFL, he told me it could be 6 months before I see it. I gotimpatient and started collecting parts to put one together. This is how far I've gotten so far. With the exception of the Repro stock and SA trigger, it's all HRA. Wonder if I'll finish it before the other one comes in?

Based on your post, would I be correct in assuming that you've built a bolt gun to work on load developement? Any chance you could post a picture of a loaded rd? I'm not sure if you're concerned about someone taking your idea and running with it, so are trying to keep the specifics to yourself, if so I understand.

Could you offer more information on this cartridge? I've never heard of it (no surprise there considering all of the things I haven't heard anything about) I did a search but found nothing on it at the dane Armory site. Any links you can post?

Without opening up my book of custom cartridge specs, I think that you'd have a hard time beating what they've done to develope the .458 SOCOM. I have no doubt that you could come up with a combination that would launch a 300gr projectile at a higher velocity out of the large platform than you can with the .458 from the small, BUT...... I don't think you realize the amount of work involved. A bolt action would be much easier, but, for a SA, you're talking about creating a wildcat cartridge, that will require you to cut down/form your own brass, the barrel would not be as hard as the bolt and barrel extension, then you have to deal with load developement, and getting your gas system to cycle with your wildcat cartridge. Things like this can be done, but unless you're willing to put a couple of years into it, I don't think you're likely to develope a working system, and even if you do, there are no spares, so you'd have to fabricate or modify every proprietery component. This is certainly not going to be like the BLK where the only proprietery part (other than ammo) is the barrel, and I didn't even address the issue of making your wildcat feed from some existing mag for the large platform guns, because you definitely DON'T want to attempt to make mags. I get tired just thinking about the size of the project. Of course the people that don't listen to those that say "it can't be done" are the ones that break new ground, So I'm thinking that if the kids keeping you up anyway, why don't you get to work and use your time productively? Just kidding.

Larest thing I've read is that they are executive actions not xzecutive orders. I'm not sure what the difference is, but It sounds as though, since he can't force Congress to adopt his gun control agenda, (which should indicate that the elected representarives of the rest of the country don't support his qoal) he's trying to work around them. All comments that I've read indicate that no one (even his supporters) considers this an effective means of reducing gun violence in America, it's just a cursory effort on his part to show that he's still hard at work on gun control, even if he has to side step the constitution to do it.

Looks like ob has decided that we need to keep those dangerous 50 year old M1's out of the hands of the street gangs. His newest executive order will prevent the reimportation of these historic weapons to sell to private individuals. If ever there was proof that they are trying to ban all guns (not just AR type) was needed, this is it. We've been led to believe that the problem with the evil AR's is the detachable, high cap mags, the pistol grips, the colapsable folding stocks, the flash hiders, etc. The Garand has non of these, and yet he has decided that (due to their being used so often in crimes no doubt) that they are a serious threat. Probably saw Gran Torino recently and imagined himself on the receiving end.

Most recent thing I've read on it is that James Edwards, one of the murderers, made numerous posts on his twitter account, prior to the attack, saying that he was going to take out "woods", and that Police chief Dan Ford, does not consider that to be sufficent grounds to classify the killing as a hate crime. Hopefully, the DA that prosecutes the case will have a different opinion. I guess the victims race had nothing to do with Edwards decision to shoot him in the back.

www.powerlineblog.com/archives/2013/08/if-barack-obama-had-a-son-would-he-look-like-chris-lane.php

I apologize for not seeing this sooner. Everything you are saying makes perfect sense, and was what I was suggesting, that you just try the AR 10 tube (that you said you had already ordered). the only thing I was cautioning you about was to verify that the gas key was not bottoming out on the longer gas tube before the bolt was closing completely, (it shouldn't). That was why I was suggesting that you close the bolt without a gas tube installed and measure from the back of the carrier. The measurement should not change when you install the AR 10 gas tube. if it doesn't, you shouls be GTG. Be sure to let us know how it cycleswith the longer tube installed.

since you've already got the longer gas tube and it looks to be on the gun with the easily removable handguard, just remove the handguard, and slide the GB forward (after removing the gas tube roll pin) and try the new gas tube in there. You can verify that the gas key is not bottoming out on the end of the tube by measuring the back of the carrier, the location of the back of the carrier when the carrier is forward should not change when you install the longer tube.

I haven't had any experience with the Seekins brake. I see that Rainier has a sale going and they've got some of the Apex .308 AR rails in stock. I'm not sure if it's not available or just not offered by Rainier but I don't see any of the Noveske keylock rails for the .308 platform, only the small platform AR's Not sure if they are made for the large platform guns? My experience with the Apex HG is on a small platform 300BLK AR I built for comps, but I believe that Apex is using the same tube for both large and small platforms these days and only the mount is different. BTW, I went with an 18" pencil barrel (.625) for my build, and it's very light and handles very well, but mine is only a 300BLK, not sure how an 18" .625" OD .308 Rem barrel will perform, thats only .156" wall thickness I believe. My barrel maker actually made my barrel bigger at the very end so that the 5/8"-24 muzzle device would have a shoulder to lock against, instead of the end of the barrel. I'll be interested to hear how yours shoots.

I've got the Titan brake, as well as the BABC, and although both are effective, considering the fact that you're going to such effort to keep weight off the front of your gun, with the pencil barrel and lightweight handguard, I'd advise the Battlecomp, it's noticeably lighter. I haven't used the Lancer handguard and would like to try it, but the Apex is a very light handguard and feels really good in your hand (IMO).. Another option would be one of the new keylock handguards that are on the market from Noveske and others. I handled a gun with the Noveske handguard and it's very light (the handguard), although you may not find the stripped guard as ergonomic as the Apex or Lancer.

I have not used the Redding bushing dies, right now I've only got the small base full length size die, but it sounds like your situation is just what these dies, with the ability to switch bushings to adjust the neck size to match the different cases and different neck tension needs, are made for. I'm not doing it so I've got to try to imagine what is causing your bullets to stick in the seating stem, but I would think that if you were able to determine exactly where on the stem it's gripping, perhaps you could chuck the stem in a drill (if no lathe is available) and polish the surface so that the stem seats on a wider surface area of the bullet and prevents it from "gripping" the bullet. You're going to have to share your solution with us here. I may be trying these bullets in the future, and I don't have the bushing dies and would like to be able to load with the small base die if possible.