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Jgun

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  1. As robocop ponted out, the Switchblock was desinged to allow rapidly switching between suppressed and unsupressed operation, so it probably wouldn't serve the op's purpose, the point I was trying to make was that if you went so far as to use a screw adjustable gas bloc to fine tune your whole rifle for minimum cycling induced recoil impulse, you are going to have just enough gas to cycle the action under ideal conditions with that specidic load, just as mine is set up, but if you were to use a gas block, with specific repeatable settings, you would be able to quickly swtich to a setting that you knew would work with a heavier load. without having to count turns of an allen screw. I would imagine that the Syrac would fit the aplication, and the Govnah might work as well.
  2. As mentioned above, the light BCG and adjustable gas is good for comp guns. I did a comp 300BLK like that. depending on what you want the gun to do it may work for you. Lighter BCG and lighter gas impulse "should" give you less recoil, but the gun will need to be kept clean and well lubed or it will have reliability problems, not good if you need it for real world self defense. And as also mentioned above, the gun will become much more ammo sensitive. If you were to open up the gas to shoot lighter loads, it will be overgassed with heavier. I had my 300 out today, trying some new powder VV N110, and it wouldn't cycle. If I adjust it for those it will be way over gassed with my hot LIL GUN loads. There's a lot to be said for using a heavier BCG to assist chambering. If you want to try an adjustable GB, I think the ones with defined settings like the switch block, may be better than the screw adjustables like mine.
  3. I've been looking at the 300 WSM cartridge. The COAL is close to that of the .308 Rem, and if you could rechamber the .308 AR barrel and counterbore the bolt .065", it might fit in a standard .308 AR receiver. Only other thing I'm thinking you'd need to make it work would be an adjustable gas block to tune the gas impulse. Question IS, would the 300 WSM cartridge feed from an unmodified .308 AR mag? Maybe one of the Knights steel mags vs a magpul plastic? Anyone have a few 300 WSM rds they'd be willing to sell?
  4. Jgun

    no bueno

    I load all my pistol ammo on a 650 progressive, and even if I weren't checking my finished rds, (I do), I'd notice the extra force required to do that compared to a properly seated bullet. I don't catch everything, all the time, sometimes find a poorly seated primer, but when I'm loading, if I notice more force needed than usual on a pull of the lever, I'm definitely going to check the rds in the shell plate at that time. Most of my reloading problems, when they do occur, come from using mixed once fired brass.
  5. Jgun

    no bueno

    I guess he doesn't look at his rds afterloading them. I check all of mine in a case gauge, does that one even go into the chamber?
  6. I picked up one of the URX rails, the thing I haven't seen anywhere are the 9" barrels.
  7. Thanks for your load info. Sounds like my 16 gr loads should be pretty mild. I was really just trying to load some plinking ammo, not going for fps. Hopefully it will be reasonably accurate. I, also, seated to the cannelure. Unless the H110 is denser than the N110, I'm thinking that your 19 gr loads must have been pretty compressed. Congratulations on your impending retirement, now you'll have lots of time for shooting. BTW, I just did some loading of the 3 .30 cal rds I shoot, and the 300BLK sure is cheaper to load than .308 and 30-06.
  8. Survivalshop, From what I see on the burn rate chart, the VV N110 is very close to the H110 (slightly slower). I have not used the H110 so I don't know what it looks like, but I was suggested a 16gr load of VV N110 would be a safe load behind my 145gr bullets, I have found that the 16gr load of the VV powder, which is a stick powder, fills the case fully. Can you tell me what load of H110 you used with your 150's, and did it also fully fill the cases? I'd like to load something lighter than the 145's but right now thats all I have on hand, I'm going to order some more 300BLK bullets shortly, and will be sure to order some 110's as well as the 125's. Someones sent me this article on the 120gr Barnes black tip bullets, they look like they might be worth trying out. www.americanhunter.org/galleries/hunting-nm-bear-barnes
  9. I'm getting ready to load up some 300BLK ammo. I've heard that H110 or N110 is supposed to be suitable for the BLK. Anyone try it? I've got some 145gr bullets and if I can locate some 125's, I'd like to try both.
  10. Jgun

    First lever gun

    Are you refering to stainless Blackhawk when you say SBH?
  11. Sage offers their EBR chassis for both the M14 types and the Garands, M14CA offers the Blackfeather, which is a very nice aluminum chassis for the M14 type, there are a few others such as Troy and Vltor that offer chassis for the M14 types. McCann offered a carbon fiber stock for the M14 typse that was supposed to be very light (never handled one). I don't think they are still in production though. . If you're considering doing the programing/developement work for a new stock for the platform, Unless you're only planning to make one for yourself, I think that if you do some research, you may find that there is a market for a carbon fiber stock for the M14 type platform, and to a lesser extent the M1 Garand. I know I would be interested in them for my M1's and M25.
  12. If I remember correctly the member that built the lightest one, got it down to around 6lbs no sights/optics/empty. Now, if you think about that, your'e still going to be up around 8 and change loaded and with optic. The question is, will you find that two lbs worth all the work, and expense to build one? You say it's heavy compared to a bolt. If weight is that importanr why not use the bolt when you'll be traveling on foot for distance when hunting. I'm thinking that if you're covering a lot of ground, your also carying a pack, why not look to make your whole outfit lighter, not just the rifle? As mentioned above, I found that the weight savings didn't justify the expense of a CF barrel, just go with a lightweight profile, and maybe no more then 18". The Ace skeliton stock is, I believe, the lightest, an Apex FF tube, or the Noveske NSR, or a CF tube will be the lightest handguard, and finally, I've noticed that there seems to be a decent weight range between the different optics, pick a light weight scope and maybe light rings vs a one piece mount. All that may shave a lb off what you'd got right now, but is it worth all that work/expense for 1lb? Like I said, I'd be looking at everything that I'm carrying, not just the gun, and what about a nice sliing that makes the gun carry easier?
  13. I've got an STS on a Saiga, and it has performed flawlessly for years, but if I were to go for another, and planned to mount it on a rail, I'd get the RTS, it's got a larger window, and a built in Picatinny rail mount.
  14. None of what I have to say would excuse what they did to you. It seems as though they may have had an initial problem with your order and you somehow fell through the cracks, but for them to not prioritize your order after dropping the ball the first time is inexcusable. I think that the lesson here is that it takes many different skills and people to make a manufacturing company work. You can make the best product in the world, but if you can't keep orders straight, then you will have many disgruntled excustomers (such as yourself) doing negative pr work for you. There are so many factors beyond the ability to make a good product, that will determine whether a company stays in business for the long term. I'm very sorry to hear of your difficulties with them. I had a very different experience. One of our other members recommended one of their barrels and I was looking for a similar barrel at that time. I called them up, the barrel was a standrd item, not a special order, they had it in stock, it was very inexpensive, included the fitted bolt, and arrived within 5 days. The barrel has proven to be very accurate. It sounds as though they have good people in the shop, that know how to turn out a good barrel, but perhaps have some serious front office problems. Sorry that you had to be the victim of their poor customer service.
  15. Jgun

    My (almost finished) M1

    Since this is my first time buying from the CMP, I don't have a reference. A memebr on another forum said that he's bought 6 over the lsst several years and has gotten, 3 beauties, 2 that were just OK for appearance, but were good shooters, and only one that had a shot out barrel. these were all service grades IIRC. I believe that cmp will sell a service grade with a barrel erosion number up to 5. So I guess a lot has to do with what they have on hand as far as parts, at the time your order is filled. From what I've heard the HRA's that are being sold right now are very nice. Guy said he had the gun with the shot out barrel rebarreled and it's now his favorite, and a real shooter. Considering that there are guys that will rebarrel your M1 with a NOS GI barrel for $300, I don't think you can go wrong with a service grade. I am not part of a Garand community where I shoot, don't know if there even is one, but I wish I could get a chance to see and handle one of the top grade guns. I'd love to see what a collectors grade looks like. since this one looks so nice, I'm inclined to want to get a NOS GI stock for it, but from what I hear, they are hard to come by in good shape.
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