J.Boyette

Sir, I would like to get some myself. where did you order them from? Thanks

Only the ones that understand the task. As the old saying goes That applies in this situation also I feel..

Oh, watch this http://www.bushmaster.com/anatomy_bushmaster.asp

guys, as I understand it, its not a PSI thing its volume thing. As we know with any Ar system (15-10) the goal is to get the brass to eject at the 2 o'clock location. This shows a system that is timed. As you increase the volume of gas, the brass fly's to the 3 o'clock, then to the 4 o'clock and recoil and wear on parts in very high. as you get to the 3:30 and 4 o'clock eject locations you will see after 30rnds some will stick and not eject, or rip off the base of the round. So if I get a load, lets say 168 FGMM and time it to a 2 o'clock position, and then shoot 175 SMK FGMM the adjustment of the timing is very little. As a matter of fact I have found that 155grn, 168, 175's loaded to a normal level, the brass is with in 3" of each other in piles. So that tells me the timing is good for two rounds, and great for one of them. This also tells me the volume of gas is not that different between the three. now with timing, the main issue is dwell time also. This done by the gas port size, and the amount of barrel after the gas port to the crown of the barrel. Case in point. The dwell time on a 20" and 14.5" barrel is the same. 7" gas system and a 12" gas system. 8" this is why the two barrel systems where used back in the day, to keep the same dwell time between ammunition. Now the amount of gas between the cartridge and the gas port is not the same. So this had to be adjusted by the gas port size. So what is a manufacture to do? drill the smallest hole for the widest amount of loads, this is also part of why heaver bullets shoot like crap is the wrong twist rate. The timing is off due to the slower bullet speed, hence less gas pressure. Now one you get the smallest, hole drilled for a wide range of bullets and powder loads, this works but can be hell of the parts, as we all know. If you adjust from a full ON level to a manageable level that lets the bolt travel to the rear of the magazine, but not slap like hell on the buffer and compress the soft plastic stuff, you are saving parts and lowering felt recoil. This is why I feel a adjustable gas system is needed on 308 AR rifles. try it, its only $50 and if it does not work, turn it all the way on and be done with it. But you will see a big diff in the performance of the rifle. John

Oh, No 45 deg mount. Just normal mounts of three heights. thats why I posted about the YHM 45deg mount for $26

Works like a champ!!!!! Its just $600 + I do not have that kind of coin right now and that's why I went with the Vortex. BUT if you got it, I would get it. If not, look at the Vortex sight I posted about. It fits all the mounts of the Micro. But the Vortex comes with mounts in the box and its a steal at $199 shipped with mounts and stuff. John

for the money, NO WAY do this http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=20658/Product/AR_15_SHORT_RANGE_TACTICAL_SIGHT With 2 of these http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=21382/Product/DOVETAIL_ANGLE_MOUNT If the 3rd rifle (CMMG lower and I built the whole thing from the ground up. Waiting on my new Nikon Monarch X 4-16 for Christmas.) has a JP Handguard, you do not even need the YHM 45 deg mounts. OR for even a better deal, get the 1 of the YHM mount I listed and that Vortex sight and use it as a angled reflex. That is a better idea, then the one you posted, they are too tall I feel. Both options I just posted are still cheaper them the one you did and would be a better fit and use.

TacBlade, On the reflex thing, I just got in a Vortex SPARC. I like it for out of the box looking. I will have it on the range soon and will let you know if its worth a crap or not. But for $200 for a red dot, mount, and all the trimmings you can not bet it. factory Link and I got it at LINK for $199 shipped.

KS Shooter, go with that kind of GI Sling. I will do a write up here on the site for Hasty and loop sling soon, and then you will be the man with that sling. Trust me, 99% of slings in the market now are carrying straps only they do not aid you in shooting.

I just got in the mail as Vortex SPARC in the mail today. And will see how it works out over time and will do a review on it soon.

Matt, This info is not new. This formula is well over 100 years old. Its just people want to go with the latest and greatest, but forgetting how to execute with out the PDA or a wind chart. I strongly believe in memorization on alot of stuff, then I can roll lighter with my rifle. All I need is me, rifle, sighting system and ammo. And it will work out.

Matt, Great points, and if it works for you then go with it. I think that everyone has ways to skin a cat, good and sometimes bad ways. Take from all, learn it and then decide if that idea works for you, or just parts of it. Then your personal tool box is better because you have found a way to operate, or a way not too.

SWshooter, You are right on IDPA and other comp's. I am not the fastest in a foot race or sprinting from point to point, speed is not a measurement of ability, accurate bullet placement is. I use cover and concealment for max effect and will take shots that most would not. how I see it is this, you only have four options to test your self in a gun fight. 1. Join the combat arms of the military 2. Join a LE department in a high risk area 3. Go seek such encounters in a high risk area 4. Shoot competitions that is someone other then your rules and skill sets to test Thats the only way I know to test yourself..When I shoot in a comp, I take it as a test of my ability to perform within the rules and I do not worry about my score. I attack the COF blind and see how I do. My goal is not to win the match, but to better myself and meet people of the same mind frame. Have a great week

TacBlade, Great question, What I do is place a yd stick at 50yds and measure distance from the thick stadia mark to thick stadia mark. Then from the point of aim to the thicker stadia again. Do all of these 8 measurements and write down the inches. Then double the inch number. This is now the MOA holds, and ranging points for that duplex. So you might have 9" from POA to stadia thick mark. Well half is 4.5" so now you got two hold points 4.5 and 9 Thats better then nothing. I still use the same math above, just drop off the MIL stuff. Have a good one.

rules of thumb are just that, a way to give a great guess to a situation. Most will dispel any of these old school ways and not accurate and so on. But its a great starting point for anyone that has nothing to go off of. The rule I like to start out with is the old WW1 rule with the 1903 Springfields. Its simple and basic: Range of target in hundreds of yards X mph of the wind / 10 = MOA how this works looks like this: 400 x 5 mph / 10 = MOA ( 4 x 5 / 10) = 2 MOA now if you use a MILRAD reticle to do holds divide the MOA by 5 and you will get the number for the hold. So the Mil math will look like this 400 x 5 mph / 10 = 2 / 5 = .4 MIL hold Or R = range ( in hundreds) V = wind speed M = MOA MI = MIL R x V -------- = M 10 R x V -------- = M / 5 = MIL 10 Now this is a rule of thumb and is not 100% on the money. But its VERY close. Hope that helps some

98Z5V, I have not experienced that, but their is alot I have not experienced :) If some one wanted to go 1 full turn, not the 1/2 turn it would more then make up the diff between loads. I think the gas per load is the same volume no matter in most loads once the "adjusted open" position is found. Have a great week.

Guys, The adjustable gas block I feel is a must have. Now you can make one your self. Just drill 90deg's to the gas port leading to the gas tube and tap that new hole and install a screw that will close off the gas flow But I only do that to a gas block that I must have. I would just replace it with a JP. Timing. Load many mag's with just 1 rnd Install gas block follow the instructions Turn the screw until gas flow is cut off Then go one full turn open and shoot 1 round You should not be able to cycle the rifle Keep going 1 full turn and shoot 1 round until you have brass ejection and bolt lock on the magazine. Once done, turn the gas off 1/4 turn and shoot 1 round until you hit that spot the bolt fails to lock. The idea is to find that point the rifle kind of cycles. This is the sweet spot you want. Once found add a 1/2 turn and you are set. Once you are done with finding the spot, I count the turns to take the screw out, add blue loc-tite and cound back down to install the screw. The idea here is to get the cycle of the rifle to work on the least amount of gas needed. Once you find that spot and add 1/2 turn the rifle will cycle just fine.

Sir, I counterpointed my self in the post, that was the point :) Of all the slings I have found the basic black GI web sling like this one -->LINK is all you need once you get it setup for hasty and loop. I did not mean to be a pain, its just I hate when people copy others ideas. Even it its for personal use. No disrespect meant or implied. Have a great week.

SWshooter, Wow, you and I are very similar in our life choices. Thats great. Firearm Instructor Level Classes: NRA Basic Rifle NRA Home Firearm Safety Course U.S. Army Close Quarter Marksman U.S. Army Squad Designated Marksman U.S. Army Machine Leaders Course Troy University Combat Stress Pistol Firing Some of the classes I have attended: Nuclear Security Officer Armed and Unarmed North Carolina Armed and Unarmed Security Officer LEO Sniper Training LEO Patrol Rifle LEO Pistol Ft Benning Combat Pistol Ft Benning Combat Rifle And some other classes I also shoot in matches and such to keep my personal ability's up. As far as what you should take, wow I have no clue, I like to take basic level classes. I always learn new steps, or techniques in them. Also I learn what I struggle in every time. I would just look at what you feel is a strong point, take that class to see if you bring home anything that would help then go for the firearm you need help in. Thats how I work it. Great question.

Matt, One great thing is this is loaded with brand new Winchester brass. So that cost would be $197.00 in brass alone. Link If you went and bought 500 pieces at $19.97 per 50. so its not a bad deal at all, keep your brass, and when you do reload you got 500 pieces ready.

Matt, thanks for the question. The issue is this. The ammunition for dealer pricing has to be done in amounts of 500rnds to make it worth wile for the factory to make it. Now, shipping, it does not need to get to me, so why pay for it to go from them, to me, to you. That defeats the cost savings by $50 or so. Its cheaper for it to go from them to you. BUT, this is training ammo, due to the deal I have with Southwest, I have to sale this to students. The Retail is WAY higher then $1 a round. so I do not want to under cut the dealers, and kill this ability to buy ammo. But if you plan on coming to a class this YEAR, I will order the ammo (after you pay for it), have it dropped at your house and you have TIME to ZERO and get DOPE with this ammo, and then come to the class when you plan on it. So thats how this stands. I want to be a up front about this as I can be.

TacBlade, If you would like, send me a PM with your e-mail address and I will send you my open dates in 2011. Then you pick the dates that work for you. Once done I will see what class you want, and based on the class and dates I will pick the best range to fill your needs. Thats how I roll, I do it all off the student not what I want to do. Then I match the range to the class, not try to fit the class to the range. But back on the post, Guys, I do not like a BDC reticle at all. I think its half a$$ed in how it works, and they do work, but not great do to the lack of a solid way to estimate the range of a target. So with all that, I would go with a basic mil-dot reticle and be done with it. Check this ---> link out

Matt, thats great!!! Let me know how I can be of any help at all.

KS, I will not show you the best sling knowing you will copy it and take someones intellectual property. But I will tell you that a basic 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" web strap mounted on the side of the rifle front and rear works like a champ. Once you get it setup for hasty slung position you will rule the range. Also at that point the design is pointless anyhow because you will just be using a strap anyhow ;)

MH, The idea is to use the least amount of force as possible. Also the other side of the idea is the BG will be in the open, more at the start of the fight, as I miss, he runs cover or concealment becomes real and the ammunition section ramps up also. If the BG starts with cover or concealment its an ambush. At that time speed and violence of action wins. So it does not matter what kind of ammo I got.