Andreas6.5AR

Well it is has been a year+ of gaining some experience and not nearly enough trigger time but I have had enjoyed the response to the rifle at the range with all kinds of comments ("oh man... look at that military porn", Can I shoot it?", "Could I please") and compliments even from ex-CIA equipment specialists and special ops guys... and my own daughter and friends who came down from Canada to visit. Learning: Hornady Ammo is too hot for the standard DPMS bolt style (mine is a JP rifles bolt with the same 0.08" firing pin hole). The pressures in the cartridge will breach the primer and eventually the situation became dangerous. Will eventually buy the Armalite bolt carrier group with the firing pin hole being slightly smaller at 0.068 I believe. As these are not available I have purchased another JP bolt and some firing pins. The Hornady ammo (super accurate and I am sure is amazing in bolt guns, has the slower burning powder and occasionally even blows the entire primer out of the brass upon ejection. Perhaps the enhanced bolt group is too light or the Tubb flat wire spring not resistive enough or the buffer heavy enough. I do not have any problems with the IMR 4064 as it is faster burning and its impulse is quicker early in the firing cycle. Hand loading: Got wonderful results with 144 gr Lapua 6.5mm FMJBT (full metal jacket boat tail) loaded with IMR4064 powder. These bullets are shorter than the longer Sierra Match King 142 gr and considerably shorter than the 140 gr Berger VLD and VLD Hybrid, so they can be optimally seated for being close but still off the lands and easily fit the magazine. There is much discussion about the actual BC on these because Lapua quotes such a high BC value on these but I suspect they are not far off because the firing results and the reduced surface and density of the round. These will have amazing sectional density and penetrating power out of an AR308 platform. This loading It is pretty hot too (about 2720 fps) and the primers show some slight flow back, but accuracy is amazing so I am looking forward to loading up and doing some long range shooting. The barrel I purchased way back from Fulton Armory is amazing. My understanding is it is a Douglas barrel with an 8 inch twist. The chamber is just perfect as is the head spacing job that Fulton Armories did. I have reused the brass up to 4 times so far on reloading with no signs of issues at all. They come out of the rifle a bit banged up but dimensionally exceptionally close to unfired needing pretty easy resizing for the most part. I have lost a few cases to loose primer pockets though and a couple over banged up. I wish these barrels were still available (maybe Douglas will do custom barrels from their sight) I would like to build another 6.5 Creedmoor but in a carbine style. I just want to commonize the ammo. Mom and daughter at the range with me and the subject rifle:

Hello No Fail, Wow, I had never considered that junction but it makes sense to have it completely square like that to improve accuracy. I wonder if I could benefit from that myself... too bad he is way out in California. Well we got some resident experts in this area I can consult with and see what might be available. On the other hand I haven't noticed any marks on my bolt lugs though I sure will be inspecting them a lot closer now. Thanks for the insight into this aspect. So was it the barrel extension lugs that were at issue there too, or just the lapping issue? That is sure one sweet looking barrel you have there too. I know you must be really itching to get a few rounds through it. Are you going to do the rigorous break in? I agree with you on the one front too though, I think the JD has one of the nicest tactikewl looks to them, balanced looking not too heavy and not too ornate... kind of tailored and business like with lines that evoke a sense of smooth speed and efficiency. I got a feeling yours is going to rock at the range and get a lot of attention (i know mine has already). Going to miss my baby for the next bit... heading off to the Philippines for a bit of vacation so I put the toys away in safe storage at a friends place til I get back and can get around to collect them. My next goal when I get back is to buy a house (and hopefully it has a garage with at least half as much space as you have there).

Hello Bother No Fail... that is looking really nice. Just as a note: I have used the Forward Assist a couple of times, but because the system got dirty and I didn't have quiet enough gas to charge it right I suspect. with brass stuck in the receiver and a new round part in, I didn't fully pull back as I didn't want to pick up yet another round. It is great to see your pics as it is very close to what i want my next build to be... a bit more of a carbine than what I have now, lighter and more maneuverable but with guts behind it (not a 223, if I go with that format I will go 6.5 Grendel). That is great stuff you bought for your weapon too... JD and JP... a JP barrel should be top shelf stuff too. I like there side cocking handle receiver but I don't think that is available as just a receiver set. I didn't have a proper receiver vice/insert or wrench (and I bought a monster adjustable that didn't fit either) when I did the barrel nut. so I jimmied something up and approximated 30 foot pounds. I have a Samson barrel nut without the holes in it for the more typical barrel nut and it seems to work great (approx 300 rounds down the tube without any sign of slacking off). What do you need the lapping for No Fail? is it just the barrel or to do with something else?

Thanks No Fail Trying my best here and listening to all the sound advice I can get. I got pretty scared about reloading because at the Fulton Armory website they almost beg people not to reload for auto-loaders offering videos and what info of what happens when it goes wrong. I have to get caught up here on this site... Last I saw some people were still having issues with the P Mags and the JD receivers... Makes me wonder if it may not the particular parts kit since I have no issues. Also you once asked about how far open the gas valve was (sorry I was away from the rifle and range for 3 weeks and I measured it this week. I was about 8 turns from having it extracted fully (I think it was about 6 turns from bottoming out if I am not mistaken... working from memory and not notes here and I can't check again now as I out it away in secure storage at a friends place as I am heading to the Philippines for a couple of weeks). You have been very active... lots of good advice and friendly postings... and at 168gr level already... cool. Guess I am not such a social type.

Reloading for the 6.5 Creedmoor: Great round but the loading from Hornady is a slower burning powder (H4350) and not the best choice for an AR based rifle. With an 8 inch twist rate the heavier 6.5 mm rounds with high BCs are ideal for this rifle... and from initial looking over the selection the Lapua 144 grain FMJ Boat Tail with a quoted ballistic coefficient of 0.636 looks like a great bullet to work with. It is shorter than the HP from Berger (VLD and Hybrid) which are in the end too long for magazine feed when seated ~15 to 30 thousands off the lands. Sierra 142s would work as well as the Lapuas 139grain Scenars and 144gr FMJBts. From a former 3 gun champion I was advised that IMR 4064 would be a very good choice for the AR format. I could not find any information on loads for this exact bullet and powder combination in this caliber so after a bit of cross referencing of sort of similar rounds I settled on starting out with 32.0 grains of powder and working up in 0.5 grain increments to 35.5 grains. The adjustable gas port was opened an additional full two turns. I first shot some of 140gr Hornady A-Max rounds to confirm my scope setting and rifle operation... after three weeks of not shooting and being rushed and antsy my first grouping of 5 shots was abysmal at almost 2 MOA... the second grouping of 5 of the same was a bit better at about 1.2, all about the center (at 100 yards). The 32.0 through 33.5 had issues cycling the action and also the shots were from about 1.5 to 1 inch average below center. The scatter was also bad, worst for the 32.0 grain. At 34.0 grains I hit a sweet spot for grouping the shots at about 0.5 MOA for 5 shots, and the gun cycled fine but the shots were about 0.6 inches below the center. At 34.5 things got worse again... wider and lower and for some reason the gun didn't cycle for 2 rounds. (Yes I am sure I did not mix up the rounds in the loading order, they were all labelled individually as i loaded them and seated the bullets one at a time). 35.0 and 35.5 grains cycled fine and I pulled a shot or two in each group otherwise 3 in each group of 5 were right on top of each other, and the shots were about back to center too (~0.2 inches low.... within experimental error I think). While not rigorous, I take this as a sign I am at approximately the same speed as the Hornady A-Max. For all loadings there were no signs of pressure on the case (flattened primers, brass flow at the ejector etc.) I take it I still have some head room but I am very satisfied with the 35.5 grain powder charge for this bullet. The primer is CCI BR2 large primer. All in all I am very pleased with this Hornady brass. Using reloaded ammunition for ARs is a dangerous game if you do not know what you are doing! It is very demanding and exacting to do it correctly. Shoulder bumping (for head spacing) brass sizing and neck sizing/trimming bullet seating depth are all critical. I seated the bullets about 15 thousandths off of the lands using a Stoney Point (Hornady) guage to determine the seating depth for each bullet. I include this information here to help others to find a starting point if they are loading the 6.5 Creedmoor for an AR, because finding this kind of information is difficult for this round still. I would really like to get a Chrony so I can do better at load development work. Maybe in about 3 weeks I can pick up a beta master.

Hello No Fail, The going back to battery is a separate thing... when it cycles it does so just fine, it was just the first day when I didn't have the right Allen Key to adjust the gas and the one other day after about 40 rounds as indicated that I didn't get it coming back far enough to pick up a new round. Yesterday was another 50 rounds and no issues. (and one guy came over and asked if his wife could try it.... when I was packing up they came back again and he said she wants one... :) She said, "well my7 B'day is in November, Christmas in December and Anniversary in January... maybe a combined occasion gift?" and looked sheepishly at her husband... I think I have had about 10 people take 3 shots each with it so far.) The rifle appears to be running great now, but I will keep you posted. The not going back into battery was something I noticed the first day we were out when the cases would eject but not enough gas to pick up another round. If I pulled to cock and let go... no problem it was loading just fine, it was when I was easing a couple of rounds in to see what would happen and it hung up out of battery (which it will without a round too if you gently ease the handle in... at least with my spring system and buffer system it does). if it has its inertia from full free spring travel I have never had an issue of out of battery... you have to force it to do that. I was habitually checking at first that it is in place and in my case the JP bolt carrier system and JD Machine extractor port line up perfectly so I can easily see if there is any problem. Now I just pop away without checking each round. What seems to be happening too is that it is starting to loosen up a bit become freer or smoother in action so I think it will get better in time yet.

Hi there Brother (No Fail), I did have some issues that day. I gave it a good cleaning again... the hot gases blow back into the bolt assembly and I didn't realize that at first, so be very careful about the lubricants you use and how much, had a bit too much of a lighter oil in there once and it burned and really coked the action badly and it got pretty stiff but still cycled without one failure for the 50 rounds I shot that day. This is a learning experience for me I am not an AR expert (yet :) ) but I hope to be considered one one day. After a disassembling all but the ejector pin (special tooling required to get it back together) on the bolt assembly, a really good cleaning with Break Free CLP and a light bronze brushing... a light greasing and it is smooth as silk again. I wouldn't worry if I were you, I really think you are going to be fine with your build. The components you have selected are top quality parts... I have no doubt it will run like a charm. Just keep it clean to prevent premature wear. I have 180 rounds down the pipe now no signs of any issues on the bolt. (Other than the slight bend in the firing pin retention pin.) Also please remember I am shooting factory ammo designed for target bolt guns (read slow burning). I think this may contribute to more dirt going into my bolt assembly. When I start reloading I will move to a slightly quicker burning powder like those used in the 7.62 military rounds. I would definitely follow the target masters break in protocol if you are getting a top quality barrel like a match barrel. I didn't at first but in short order I did... (clean the barrel after each of the first ten shots, then clean after groups of 3 for 5 to 10 groups then after groups of 5).... using the Otis cable type unit makes it a snap to do. and the CLP is also the recommended cleaning agent here.

Hello Guys, I have a JD matched receiver set with a JP low mass bolt carrier group and enhanced bolt and while it doesn't have the gear like surface of a typical 223 bolt, I find that if is just a matter of the rotation of the bolt not completed (perhaps the last 1/4 inch or so (when I release the bolt slowly for example) the Fulton Armories forward assist button does in fact engage the bolt carrier and force it closed (though there is some effort involved). When I first received the assembly I thought there is no way the forward is going to do anything other than prevent gases coming back at me, so I was pleasantly surprised to find this. My set up is a bit different in that it is 6.5m Creedmoor, but that is the 308 bolt system anyway. Also using a JP adjustable gas system which works great.

OK: the rear take down detent was just bothering me. I didn't see anything but a smooth hole, but to be honest I didn't remove the stock to check for a hole drilled and tapped and I wish I had, that was really silly of me... so I did the typical man thing: bought some tools, tapped the hole above the hand grip, cut back the spring, ground the cut edge, put it all back together, then decided to reread what you wrote, check the JD Tech website and see what you were talking about in your post... feeling like a bit of a sheepish idiot seeing the hole you were talking about right on their web site photography. In any case... Mission accomplished.

Hello NoFail.... That is going to be one very sweet looking beast when it is all put together. Very much like my next anticipated build of a battle rifle. JD/JP combo is the way to go in my experience. You have selected great top quality parts through out. I have got more than a 100 rounds through the rifle now and no real signs of any finish wear on the bolt carrier. I do use Slipstream lubricants from Crusader rifles (expensive but I think it does do a better job... at least I hope it does). One thing I did notice in disassembling the bolt last night was the firing pin retention pin was bent a bit so you may want to get a spare and make sure you do have the drift punch and appropriate hammer to take it out and if need be get it pack in again cleanly. I didn't realize the gasses actually port back into the bolt assembly (still learning about how that technology all works together), and man that was filthy after 60 rounds on the weekend. I seriously want to get an ultrasonic cleaner for cleaning these parts well between firings. I also started to notice that it wasn't cycling completely every time after about 40 rounds, more gas didn't really help. It was pretty wide open already. I think my Tubb flat wire spring may have more compression force than the usual springs (But with that Slipstream grease worked in it is pretty quiet and I like that). Your barrel twist should be perfect for the heavier loads. My 6.5 has a 1 in 8 twist but the long skinny bullets need need more spin to stay stable through out their flight. For the lighter range bullets they would be over stabilized (below 120gr in my case).

I would really like to take a moment to thank everyone, and especially Andrew for the contributions to making this site so great.... it made doing this build flawless and while challenging for a total newbie to this, still navigable without any troubles. With out this site, I think there would have been many trials and tribulations in trying to piece things together. THANKS EVERYONE FOR ALL THE HELP... directly and indirectly.

My JD is a 700 series and PMAGs work flawlessly.

Hi there NoFail... No problem what so ever.... I hope you have every bit as much luck with your build as mine... We have a great many components in common and it was a real toss up for me as to the stock, but since my intention was long range sniper unit I chose the PRS. The one I wanted was the one you picked, and I also looked at the JD hand guard and even requested from them if they could make me an adjustable gas block based upon their cool looking gas block with the rail... but never got a reply from them. I am sure they get a lot of frivolous requests so I can't blame them. I think you should be very happy with the JD receiver/JP Rifles Low Mass enhanced bolt set... it is a pretty amazing combo. I intend to incorporate the a few of the things you have there in my next build too, like the Magpul UBR... I love that look for a Battle rifle. I would like to get the JD gas block and have a machine shop drill and tap for me to make it adjustable. Where 140 grain is the light weight in 308 it is pretty heavy already for the 6.5, though it would be nice to see someone bring out some heavier spitzer types in 6.5 too (155gr to 160 gr... really get the BC up there). I have some Lapua 144 FMJ for reloading with already (amongst others). Just slowly getting all my reloading equipment lined up. While the 6.5 is more expensive I really wanted to try and get into some long range sniper type shooting as well, but didn't want to be having to put up with the kick of the 300 WSM or worse. The ballistics of the 6.5 Creedmoor can be almost identical to the 300 WSM and better wind bucking capability I believe. I love the 308... we used when I was in the militia in Canada in our FN C1 and C2s. (FALs). I loved that rifle too and would love to get another for old time sake. It is approaching 40 years since I was shooting those though. loved the wood hand guards on those, much more comfortable to hold in temperature extremes. A cool build would be with free float wood furniture on an AR platform IMHO. I will keep an eye out on your post too to see how things are coming along for you. Best of luck with it, it looks real sweet.

Hello NoFail, sorry to hear that... a real bummer not to get both halves at once... though from the entire thread here I have no doubt it will be a finely matched set. Just look at all the comments about the tightness of their tolerances. Thanks for the compliments on the shooting, I am just a rank amateur but hope to improve significantly still. I wonder how much more I can squeeze out of the rifle though. It was another good day at the range yesterday, I moved the bi-pod back about 6 inches (in the evening another 4 inches or so), and definitely a sandbag at the stock end to help steady the left hand holding the stock will help. For those reasons not as impressive as the day before but still mostly sub MOA. I was using a couple of empty ammo boxes for support, not ideal but an improvement was noticed already. What are you considering for a barrel? I am contemplating building another this year and I am pretty sure it will be built on a JDM set. I just feel theirs has the nicest cleanest lines for Tacti-kewl look. The attention at the range bears that out. Lots of people trying it out and taking pictures of it. I would like to build a lighter shorter barreled (but not short barrel... still 18 to 20 inch) combat rifle, something lighter and easier to maneuver. I will probably go 6.5 Creedmoor again to keep my reloading simple. I was debating going AR15 platform in Grendel but I like the extra power behind the CM, though I do like the ease of staying on target with the lighter load and bullets. I don't know for sure but it sort of seems like the Grendel has sort of petered out in popularity.

Hello NoFail and thanks so much for the information I will definitely check it out. Yes I am using the PMags with absolutely no issues this thing runs like a champ. About 150 rounds through it and since setting the adjustable gas block only three that didn't either reload or totally clear the chamber... I could turn up the gas a bit more but didn't' want to fuss with it today. Great day at the range... (100 yards) At first very frustrating couldn't get good groups with the AMax 140 gr and worse with the 129 gr. After I took a break, my neighbor at the range asked if he could try on his stand and rear bag and I said sure... he had a nice selection of various target rifles. He took 4 shots, 0.74 center to center and said, "There is nothing wrong with that gun, it is a fine piece of equipment." With his set up I took two shot groups to empty the mag and ... WOW, the first set , three bulls 0.4 inch center to center and the second three grouped at 0.6 inches but out of the bulls-eye, I guess I was over excited from the first set I could feel the adrenaline rush.... see the pictures... I am happy!

Initial Range Report: As Tested: JD Machine Tech upper and Lower JP Rifles Enhanced bolt system and adjustable gas block Fulton Armory 6.5 Creedmoor National Match 24" Barrel Fulton Armory Buffer Fulton Armory upper and lower small parts kit Samson Barrel nut Mech Armor Tac-Ops charging handle Magpul MIAD Pistol and PRS stock Tubb 2000 flat wire spring Apex Gator Grip hand guard Hawke Sidewinder 30 Scope, 4 - 16 x 50 half mil dot Burris PEPR scope mount Laser sighted at home to about 10 yards with a unit designed for 308 use so not perfect. Lead Sled Solo (the cheaper one that can adapt for the magazine if no weight is used on the tray (and we didn't use any weights there). Miserable rainy day in North Alabama, but i wasn't going to miss my first opportunity to give it a try... The bad... didn't have the right Allen Key with me to adjust the gas block so while it was ejecting the cases it wouldn't go back far enough to reload on cycle. 50 yard range to get sighted in is all we did... also because of other guns we had along, cowboy, old 6.5 mm Swede and pistols. The good... first two shots were far left and slightly high (~ 8 inches...on next target). First scope adjustment to the right and was at 1 inch upper left, next adjustment dead on middle bulls-eye. Next two shots almost in the same hole (~ o.4" edge to edge for all three shots). Next up was my friend Ken who took three shots too, After the first one he looked up bewildered and I asked how he did, and he said, "Bulls-eye" a little low left off center (I mean less than a bullet diameter from center) and the next two he had all well connected to one another. The whole set up is a bit heavy but that is a heavy scope and that 24" stainless bull barrel is a lot of forward weight to carry. Still, I am very pleased with it so far... can't wait to take it out for some longer range testing. I just need to get a good top mount bi-pod like the one on the German DSR-1. This should be one sweet long range set up.

Thanks for the review and for the fix.... Woulda shoulda, but couldn'ta with my current tools. I don't have a proper drill press set up nor tap and die set to put a set screw in... but that is a very elegant and permanent means to do it. As I get more into the gunsmithing side of things I hope to be able to do that. For this build I just built up the inside of the grip under the detent with plastic strips and crazy glue then shaved it conform precisely with a Dremel tool. Seems to have worked well. Unfortunately the local range is closed here, until the end of January I am told, but I am very anxious to go and put a few rounds down range. Will report back as soon as completed (before proper break in too). Slowly acquiring all my hand loading equipment too.

You are absolutely right it was the rear take down detent. As for the rest... well I experimented but came back to taking much of the finish off and reapplying a uniform coat of Ceracoat... it seems to stick really well actually. Looks like I might have to do the stock and pistol grip too though to get a better match. Using a flask makes it look even worse so the photos I took here are with normal lighting, loosing a bit of detail afterward. Mostly finished now... it is heavy but very sweet. Need a bipod system but I want to do something custom there. All in good time though, too much to do otherwise right now. Merry Christmas to everyone.

I have an APEX Gator Grip on the Samson Barrel nut and it fits perfectly... they are mounted on a JD machine receiver set and has 6.5 mm Creedmoor Fulton Armories barrel on it... Beautiful... Picture at the JD machine supplier tag

Thanks for the great responses everyone. I received the Apex Gator grip and the Samson Barrel Nut this week and the gas system and Cerakote are in the apartment office waiting for me. I spent about 3 hours trying to mask it up with special plastic stuff but finally gave up. I saw a beauty of a job done with wax (crayon on a Glock) after the Cerakote for filling the writing, but I am not that steady I can get it only in the grove portions and I am not sure what effect the Cerakote would have on it if done to mask the area and how to clean only the upper areas after application but before painting. My understanding is Cerakote works best on a grit blasted surface. So I will go back to my original thought for now and see how it works. in the worst case I figure I will just have to paint the whole thing.

Happy Happy Joy Joy, More parts have been coming in. Received and installed the Geiselle SSA-E trigger, so smooth and such a crisp break, MechArmor TachOps1 charging handle is a nice fit Apex Machine rifle length Gator Grip Handguard and top rail is so cool but I need the barrel nut. This item looks really well machined, though it is pricey (but comparable to the competition). Some nice pictures of it on rifles at Crusader Arms. Had to try their SlipStream gun lube package. Now waiting on CeraKote from Brownells to try and coat the raised parts on the hand guard flat dark earth and leave the low sections black. Going to have to try and do something different for Cerakote application here because masking that much detail would be hell. And I just bought a beauty of a Paasche dual action airbrush for the job.... I'll find a use for it yet. Also waiting on the assembled JP adjustable gas block with gas tube, Samson barrel nut from Optics Planet, that I might have to have machined to fit the hand guard. These should be here this week. I think I have decided to go with a custom built muzzle treatment of my own design that I know is going to cost a small fortune to have made. I think the whole thing would look really 21st century with a Burris Eliminator mounted on top. Next big step be sending in the receiver, bolt assembly, gas system and barrel nut to Kreiger for barrel installation. I'll just have them thread the end and cap it for now.

Thanks very much for the info. I was reading that in your JP forum. Actually I am very thankful to all of you here for having so much good and useful information available. It was a tremendous help during my investigations and learning phase. I had no idea it got this complicated and then it sort of got all clear to me pretty quickly. I am sure I am still missing a thing or two, but that is the beauty of this kind of mechanical things... things to learn, adapt to and improve upon. A man only learns in two ways, one by reading, and the other by association with smarter people. Will Rogers and my favorite: There are three kinds of men. The one that learns by reading. The few who learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves. Will Rogers

:) Just underway with my first AR build. Matched Receiver set: JD Machine 7.62mm/.308 Complete Bolt Carrier Assembly: JP Rifles JPBC-4A Lower Parts (without trigger): Fulton Armories Upper Parts: from Fulton Armories, though with this bolt system the Forward assist serves no purpose except to plug the hole. Grip: Magpul MIAD kit Flat Dark Earth from Fulton Armories Stock: Magpul PRS Flat Dark Earth with Fulton Armories Tube and Buffer Buffer Spring: Tubbs flat wire CS spring (Superior Shooting) The MIAD gave me some trouble here. The spring for the safety detente would slip down as there is no real surface in the grip for it to have any support. I cut three short pieces off of a 1/4 inch wide zip tie and crazy glued them together against the inside the wall of the MAID grip and shaved it down with a Dremel. Worked perfectly. Waiting on MechArmor TacOps-1 charge handle and Geissele SSA-E trigger Looking to get 22 inch Kreiger Barrrel installed in either 6.5 Creedmoor or 6.5 x 47 Lapua but have to decide on the Muzzle treatment (BABC by BattleComp, JPRE-9 from JP rifles or a "V" port vaporizer or Mini-X-treme from Straight Shot Gunsmithing http://straightshotgunsmithing.com/). Also still have to decide on the hand guards... leaning toward either a JP-V-Tac style (wish they had Flat Dark Earth ... love the look of the Troy VTAC Rail TRX Extreme but they don't make it for AR10/308 ... yet), Superior Weapons Systems (E-1) or a Samson type Battle Rail or???? (Suggestions?). Needing to color the mags and probably the Battle Rail/hand guard too so looking for best durable coating method here, although Magpul covers and rail inserts may do the trick just fine. Suggestions for best coating material on plastic and which color match is best to go with the Magpul?

Just started building on a JD Machine receiver set, bought a couple of Magpul LR-20s and with the JP Rifles Bolt set everything looks good so far, very little wobble in the mag , with or without the bolt (max deflection at the base with the bolt in place and mag empty is about 3/16 on an inch forced from one end to the other). Still have to install the barrel and put some real rounds through it but it seems great so far. She sure is purty pops... Using Fulton armories lower parts kit with a Magpul MIAD Grip and PRS stock, (from Fulton with their buffer and tube but using a Tubb precision flat wire spring). Waiting for delivery on the Geissele SSA-E. Going to have Kreiger install a 6.5 mm (either Creedmoor or 47Lapua), just have to figure out which compensator/flash reducer to use.