texas30cal

I will give it a quick try, I have some flitz, will try it in some cottton on a wood dowel after a little work with the paper if no luck will go see him.

I looked in the chamber with my streamlight and can see it doesnt look like it was polished at all, looks just like holes that I ream for tapered pins with a very fine lenghtwise chatter marks, I spoke to a local gunsmith that a few of my friends use and he recommended lightly polishing with 800 grit paper on a wood dowel in the lathe. Sound good?

Ya I read some opinions about them, we will see, its definitely not perfect, but I like to tinker and learn so I don't mind much. I was impressed with the TM lower, used a a2 stock and timney trigger also very nice. I took the bolt apart tonight and found a couple of issues, the extractor was also leaving a impression on the back of the case because the cut in it that clears the o.d. of the case wasn't cut far enough to the rear, it was hitting the case so hard that it had broken the pin, made a new pin from a hardened dowel ,took just a very small amount out at the rear of the cut and now it sits just below the bolt face.I found that burr on the bolt face around the ejector hole and removed it. I also think headspace may be tight, it works better now cycling by hand but it is hard to close on all cases regardless of new once fired (in this gun) factory or my handloads. Holding the upper upside down with a fired case in it, the bolt starts to move to the rear easily until it tries to rotate the bolt then gets very hard until the bolt rotates then it frees up, and I can see finish wear on the rear of the bolt lugs like there is alot of pressure against the front of the lugs in the barrel extension. I know this is getting long but its hard to explain, I am using small base dies, and trimming cases, even new factory remington fits tight. What headspace gages do I use for this? There a couple of guys locally that may have them if i just know what to ask for. Thank's for the help so far.

No, I forgot, its a T.M.10 80% lower and the upper came from Ak/Ar parts kits, did alot of reading some good and some bad, but for the price and quality it seems ok except for the bolt sticking, it actually shoots very well ( way better than I can), would it hurt anything to lightly bevel the ejector? It scars the brass with a curved mark ( actually rolls up a burr) from when it goes into or out of battery and thought it may be my problem

Hello all, I've been reading for a while but this is my first post, just thought it may help. I believe I just had what you are calling the short stroking problem, boy that sounds bad, it was a problem with the alignment of the port in the barrel and the port in the gas block, when I removed the block I could plainly see the shape of the hole in the barrel in carbon inside the gas block that was misaligned by about 1/3! I just used a small carbide burr shaped like a ball and chamfered the hole in the gas block and it stopped the problem, mine also leaks between the block and barrel and uses set screws to hold it in place. It works now but want to find a gas block that uses pinch bolts on the bottom like my Yankee Hill block on my ar-15, it draws down tight against the barrel and doesn't leak. Not a attempt to hijack and if I need to move I will but occasionally when I want to clear the rifle I physically cannot pull back the charging handle, I have to use a screwdriver covered in black tape to pry it back the first 1/8" to 1/4", any suggestions?