Jump to content
308AR.com Community
  • Visit Aero Precision
  • Visit Brownells
  • Visit EuroOptic
  • Visit Site
  • Visit Beachin Tactical
  • Visit Rainier Arms
  • Visit Ballistic Advantage
  • Visit Palmetto State Armory
  • Visit Cabelas
  • Visit Sportsmans Guide

Big Bore

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Big Bore

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Someplace in Indiana

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. After some more playing, it seems that the ejection is best with a 2HB using the .086 gas port along with IMR4198. I found that a maximum charge capacity, not pressure, is 28.5 gr. for 2605 fps and MOA groups. However, the ES with all loads is more than I like, between 30 and 50 fps, plus, anything over 27.5 gr. is compressed and at 28.5 gr. I have to use a drop tube, trickle, and vibrate to get the powder level down far enough to seat a bullet and it still comes up over half way up the neck resulting in a lot of compression. I switched over to H4198 and using a drop tube the powder comes up the bottom of the neck, so H is more dense than IMR. Another load work up is in order with H4198 and we'll see if it gives me the velocity I want along with acceptable accuracy and a lower ES. If it does, I can likely work up to at least 29 gr., possibly 29.5 gr. and see what happens. If, and I know it's a big IF, I can top this out at 2700 fps with acceptable accuracy and no pressure signs with that little 110 gr. TTSX bullet, this doll baby is going to be a screamer. And if H4198 does not do it, I may just try some magnum primers and work up again. I have found that often the addition of a magnum primer is similar to adding a full grain of powder, so if that is the case here and pressures allow, that might just get me to 2700 fps. A nasty cold is keeping my old butt at home this week so with Christmas coming up and my son coming home, I doubt there will be any range time for load work up until after the first of the year. Stupid cold...
  2. Another but less well known .30 cal for the AR-15 platform is the .30 HRT originated by Marty ter Weeme of Teppo Jutsu. It is a 6.8 SPC case, necked up .308. You make it by running the 6.8 case through a .30 Herrett sizer die (Hornady dies have a tapered expander so no need to neck them up to .30 first), and trimmed to a maximum case length of 1.610 (TTL to 1.605). I have just started working with it but am getting 2594.4 fps with a Hornady 110 gr. VMAX and will start work with the 110 gr. TTSX next week, followed by 125 gr. Nosler Ballistic Tips. Three shot groups at 100 yards with a 2400 fps load gave me .177 inch groups while at full throttle, the 2600 fps load gave me 1.095 inch groups. You can either have a barrel made from SBR or you can have any .300 BO barrel rechambered. I am not interested in shooting sub-sonics, that's what the .338 Spectre (another TJ innovation) is all about, and used a Wilson 7.62 x 40 barrel as the host. Big mistake. I did not take careful enough readings and the chamber would not clean up so my smith had to set the barrel back and index a new barrel extension to make everything line up, but he did it (I'm sure cussing me every step of the way) and it works like dream. Thanks Thomas (Paladin Machine Shop Service). My barrel was CAR gassed and a 1:12 twist. Too slow for subsonic use but works just fine for what I need since I will not be going over 125 gr. When converting another barrel to .30 HRT, first make sure you get the twist you want and the gas position you want. And if buying from Wilson, make sure you get what you order because someone there is not on the ball. In my case, I am glad they were not. I ordered a 16 inch lightweight midlength 1:12. I got it, turned it around to Thomas, and when I got it back, only then did I notice that it was not a midlength gassed barrel like shown on their web site, and as described on their web site, but rather a CAR gassed barrel. HAZAA for me because CAR gassed is what I wanted in the first place, but since Wilson did not list a CAR gassed 7.62 x 40 barrel, I settled for the midlength. Worked out great for me but it might not for someone else. Of course, you need a 6.8 bolt and mags. ARP has a great 6.8 Super Bolt and my PRI and CP (old company CP) mags work perfectly. Also, keep an eye on the gas port. Most 30 HRTs seem to like .086 gas ports. Mine from Wilson had a .076 and would not run at all. Once I got to .082 it ran with IMR 4198 but nothing else. I went ahead and took it to .086 and it still will not run with H110 or IMR4227 (feeds and ejects fine but bolt will not lock back), but runs like a scalded dog with IMR4198 so that's what I am sticking with, however, with IMR 4198 I could have stopped with .082 so am a little over gassed at .086. It still runs fine with standard CAR buffers, H, 2H, and even 3H buffers plus the 3H buffer corrects for the slight over gassing some. At .082 and with IMR4198 a standard buffer is all you need. So, if you are looking for a .30 caliber that will go faster than any other .30 cal out there except for the .30 RAR (which as we all know, is not exactly a true AR-15 upper) and you do not mind a little wildcatting, the .30 HRT is quite an interesting round. It bests the .30 BO and the 7.62 x 40 by quite a bit with all bullet weights, and of course, if you want to go subsonic, get a 1:8 twist and shoot anything you want. And if you want to push 240 gr. SMKs faster than subsonic, you can do that too, or any other bullet weight you want. While 110 gr. bullets might suffer from the mythical over stabilized condition, they are reported to shoot just fine in the 1:8 as they do in a 1:10, 1:11, or in my 1:12. Good shooting! 2373 fps 2594.4 fps
  3. I almost had a coronary last night listening to Bill O'Reily on FOX news. He was saying all kinds of stupid stuff, such as you can go to any gun show and buy fully automatic weapons like M16s and AK-47s and walk right out the door with them, and the Republican senator (or congressman, not sure which) kept trying to correct him saying that what O'Reily was saying was incorrect but O'Reily kept talking over him, not letting him get a word in edgewise. O'Reily kept going on that we need some sort of watch dog from the FBI that alerts them when people buy large amounts of ammo. I was so disappointed in O'Reily that it made my ill. I swear O'Reily sounded just like the anti-gun grabbing Palosi or Feinstein. Link to transcript
  4. No brainer, HK USP Tactical for all the bells and whistles, CT if you can get buy without the match trigger and reduced capacity, and good luck finding a HK45 Tactical. There have been a few HK45CTs hit the shore but I am not aware of any HK45T's coming in yet.
  5. What's MY CCW? You're kidding, right? USPCss .45 with a BUG of either a NAA Guardian .32 NAA or a S&W 642 .38 +P. Picture below is one of my USPC pistols but not my CCW.
  6. I always run a RR NM2S trigger tuned by WOA and set for 3.5 pounds of pull but you can buy an already tuned trigger from Legal Transfers for $85. They are not as smoothly tuned as the WOA but they are really good none the less and the price is a real plus. The last 4 RRNM2S triggers I have purchased have been from LT. The barrel is your standard run of the mill DPMS 18 inch "fluted" stainless with black coating. It comes with something DPMS calls a break but you have got to be kidding me. It is nothing more than a tube with holes in the side screwed on the end and does hardly anything at all from what I could tell. And the fluting? Seriously? It has maybe 5 or 6 shallow little flutes for abut 4 inches forward of the gas block. They are about as worthless as tits on a boar hog in regards to cooling but they do give the barrel a bit of pizzazz. I got the barrel from Midway-USA for a dealer price of $165 IIRC but don't hold me to that. I've slept since then. Still, it's a decent barrel for the price and is as smooth as glass on the inside. Even those Barnes TSX BT bullets cannot foul the barrel. By the way, if anyone gets one of these barrels and wants to remove the break, it is not glued on or anything like that, just tightened really tight. I confirmed this from DPMS before removing because I could not budge it. You must use a barrel clamp, not an action block, to remove it and then a long cheater on a rod stuck through the sides of the break. It will come off but it is put on there to stay. I'd hate to meet the gorilla they have turning these breaks on at the factory.
  7. Over priced, for sure, but they were the first large company to bring out the gas piston after Armalite dropped the 180 from their roster. Smaller companies were making them and getting no press and hardly any sales, but it was HK that brought the gas piston for the AR to the forefront again. And when they did, everyone was saying, "Har, har, har, there is nothing the gas piston brings to the table. DI is much better and only an idiot would go gas piston." Within a couple of years everyone and their grandmother was bringing out their version of a gas piston upper for the AR platform. So, the HK is anything but "another piston gun from a big name," they were the first major AR piston player in modern times so give the devil his due, overpriced or not.
  8. I agree with you. Save the 91 for the collection, shoot the clone. Clones they still make, 91s that we can get, they do not. 91s are not made to be reloaded for. They are work horses, shoot, and get that darned fired case out as quickly as possible and as far away as possible. That it does. And who said 91s are not reliable? That is total BS. They run in conditions that would make an AK blush. If you do want to reload for the 91, a port buffer is mandatory because they do beat up the brass pretty badly, but it looks like you already have one on yours; nice rifle by the way. You can ignore the fluting lines on the case. They still show after sizing but do not affect anything. As to aluminum mags, I run only aluminum mags in my clone PTR-91 and they work just fine. Nothing wrong with steel mags either except they rust easily, but aluminum mags last pretty well. I have some that were well worn when I got them and are over 20 years old and they are still going strong. The only down side of the 91 is they are heavy and for the round they shoot, their recoil is pretty stiff, much more than on a 7.62 x 51 AR-10 for instance. And if you have the telescoping A3 stock, it can be punishing. If sticking with the A2 stock, getting a G3 heavy buffer can really tame down the recoil over the stock 91 buffer.
  9. Well, son of a gun. It has not been that long since I have been there, 6-9 months maybe, but sure enough, his site is down. I still have his business card with his information (if that is still current?) so you might try reaching him via e-mail or telephone. Konradd@bellsouth.net 1-931-962-1609
  10. A bit better without sticking way the heck out there. I have no problem charging the rifle by only pulling on the left side of the CH and have yet to bend anything on any of the rifles. Many of my rifles are wildcats for which there is no load data available outside of a guestimate from QL, so ruptured primer or pierced primer can be a bit of a surprise. While I have never experienced either, I do like the way the GB redirects gas away from the shooter's face and you know that little puff you get when shooting any DI AR? With the GB that is totally gone. If not for the gas deflection properties of the GB I would probably be using the Gunfighter. I honestly think the VLTOR/BCM Gunfighter CH is stronger and less prone to breakage because the GB still has the cut out in the back for the latch and that is the weak point, but so far, thousands of racks using the left side of the GB and I have not damaged or broken anything, so it must be plenty strong enough. Most of my rifles are scoped also and the military big latch on the GB sticks out far enough for easy charging without sticking out so far as to get in the way or snag on things.
  11. I have one I built from DPMS's 18 inch barrel. I like it. So far load work up has been minor but what I have done tells me the rifle is plenty accurate. I have not found a load, yet, that will go under a MOA but almost everything I have fed it goes 1.25 to 1.75 MOA. I did have to open up the gas port a couple thousandths to get it to lock back every time but that is all. Oh, and the factory break, what a joke. I put on a Shrewd break and it is much better. I am shooting the 185 gr. Barnes TSX BT with Varget powder and getting 2485 fps with 1.5 inch groups. However, I am sure this will tighten up with more load work. The rifle feeds perfectly from DPMS and Mag-Pul P-Mags and recoil is very mild. How do these stories about heavy recoil get started? Shown with TP instead of Shrewd break. ACE M4-SOCOM long stock, fixed into position, custom CF 15 inch forend. Tactical Machine lower.
  12. I have been using heavy tungsten powder in my buffers in AR and LR platforms. Heavy tungsten powder is heavier than normal tungsten powder by about one ounce per a given rifle length buffer and the only place I know of to get it is from HDTP. It is terribly expensive though but if you can get enough people together to order 10 pounds or more, the price is cut in half. I have had great luck with it and you have infinite adjustability over the weight. I find it gives a dead blow affect to the buffer** and according to Spikes, it reduces bolt bounce although that is not an issue really in semi autos. **drop a normal buffer on the floor from about 3 feet and watch it bounce back up into the air. Do the same with a buffer of the same weight but with tungsten powder. It hits the ground and sticks, no bounce back at all.
  13. I use the PRI Gasbuster in all 4 of my LR-308s.
  14. I know the grips and butt stock will work just fine on the LR-308 but as said, the forend may be the snag. I have done free floating wood on one of my ARs using the NM free float sleeve and it worked out fine, and you could drill and tap the sleeve for a bipod stud. You do have to do a lot of thinning and re-cut the gas tube channel a lot but it doesn't take too long with a Dremel. By the time you thin the wood to go around the sleeve it is very thin on the bottom but the metal tube on the sleeve is thick enough, especially if you add a nut on the inside of the sleeve to offer more security to the stud. The wood stocks I used are from Dan Konrad and I bet if you talk to Dan he can give you some idea of what will work with the LR-308 or AR-10 rifles. Here is my .458 SOCOM woody done on a Konrad AA fancy piece of black walnut. And a half wood LR-308 in .470 Rhino using a Konrad grip, DPMS wood stock (Konrad stocks are much stronger by the way, that double sided cheek piece is for more than looks), and a 'dipped' DPMS forend tube. [img width=810 height=270]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v318/BiggBore/All%20ARs/470-Rhino-w.jpg This is the 5.56 woody done on the NM free float sleeve. [img width=810 height=254]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v318/BiggBore/All%20ARs/556-Woody-1-web.jpg
  15. Because the AR platform was not big enough to shoot the bullets in the round I wanted. While the AR-15 will shoot the .500 Phantom with hunting type bullets, the platform is too short to shoot the .500 Phantom with BMG bullets loaded for high BC and subsonic use. Next came the need for an elephant gun in an AR type platform, and again, the AR-15 was too short to handle the length of the .470 Rhino. Then the .358 HDH, same story, needed the length for the bullets I wanted to use at the depth I wanted to seat them. Finally a factory round, the .338 Federal. Rather boring compared to the others but a great rifle none the less.
  • Create New...