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Thanks for the info guys - I'll check it out this weekend...

Hello all; I recently came into possession of a stripped Armalite AR10 lower (i'm not sure where it's an A or B but I'll find out thanks to the information sheet posted here). While this is my first AR10 build, I'm not new to building ARs. I am new/having trouble find a source for uppers other than ARMALITE. Does anyone else out there build uppers that are compatible with Armalite lowers? If not, I am better off to just purchase a complete upper and call it good? Any thoughts would be welcomed.

Just loaded up some new 9mm 147gr subsonic loads using Titegroup to shoot out of my just assembled suppressed AR15 SBR. I started with 25 pcs over 3.3 gr, 50 pcs over 3.4 gr (seemed to be the most popular load that I found) and 25pcs over 3.5 gr all seated to 1.160" COAL . After shooting the different loads, I will go with the 3.5gr loads. The 3.3 functioned well but the action seemed to struggle a bit. The 3.4 were great but the 3.5 gr loads seemed to cycle the best, had the best accuracy and for what ever reason, seemed to be the quietest. Back to the fun shop for 1k Berry's 147gr RN and then home to load up this week.

Why does the powder measure drop a few extra granules of powder after a charge is dropped? I have the correct funnel, the return rod and butterfly nut are working correctly, and my weights seem on. It's a bit annoying to have to brush off the residual powder. I am working up some new loads so I am going slower than usual

HOLY F&*K- I just read my own post - I hate posting from my iPhone...cleaned and uniformed primer pockets and the Federal Cases are gold medal match...since then, I've full length sized, and trimmed the 308 cases. I have put my load development on paper using 155 gr and 168 gr Nosler BTHP custom comp bullets. I'm unfortunately stuck using the powder that I have on hand ( TAC, Benchmark, H335, and BL-C 2) since no one locally has anything that is very useful. I hope to start loading this weekend and if the weather improves, go out to test in the next few weeks.

I like using the progressive function of my 550. Since I also reload pistol cartridges on my press, I have built in muscle memory for the process. When I initially started reloading rifles, I tried keeping the seating die in place with the powder, bullet seating, and crimp die. The problem occurred after I full length sized the brass. Since the brass needed to be trimmed, I had to trim the cases and run them through the reloading process which meant through the sizing die to prime the case. After a few I also noticed the lube was inside the case neck and really not working well. After some phone consulting with some friends and a person at Dillon, it was suggested that I place the sizing die in a separate tool head, size, de-cap, clean the flash hole, trim and re-tumble to get the lube off the cases. The same person suggested that I place a universal de-capping die in station #1 on the tool head of my 550 and use it clear the flash hole of any media and to utilize the same reloading flow as I am used to e.g. size & de-cap, prime, drop powder, seat bullet, crimp, begin again. This process only works on progressive presses with 4 stations and interchangeable tool heads like the Dillon. If you are thinking of using a single stage or a progressive without interchangeable tool heads, you will need to tailor your reloading process. I hope this helps...

Ok- the nice man from USPS dropped off a G2S trigger and a set of Dillon .308 carbide dies :banana:

I found a G2S from TierOneArms this weekend for $157 delivered. Thought it was a good deal so, I ordered it. I'll post up when I install and get it to the range.

Tumbled, de-capped, and sidelined pockets to 385 Hornady Match cases and 280 Federal GYM cases Drinking some Dewars blue label now

thanks - I'm going to keep my eyes open for a lightly used Geissele G2S.

I bought a PRI one from MidwayUSA a few weeks ago....it fit the FF handguard/rail on my LR308 Mk12 perfectly. All you need is a 1/2 socket wrench

I have a DPMS LR308 Mk12 that comes with an adjustable JP single stage trigger. While the JP is a very nice single stage, I really want a 2 stage trigger. Other than than Rolls Royce Geissele ( I really don't want to spend that much) what are my other options? I have experience with both RRA and CMMG 2 stage triggers. Would either one of these hold up in a 308? Thanks

Here's a few of mine...Les Baer Premier II and Custom Carry and Les Baer PII with 1" guarantee

Very nice :banana: - only got junk mail - I am waiting for some brass and dies however

So I just picked up a lightly used Burris 3.5x10x42 30mm MTAC scope that has MRAD knobs and some type of mil-dot reticle. I have always been a fan of Burris scopes but haven't found too much on this one. I got it for a good price with the mount included. I was running a Nikon 223 scope on my DMPS LR308 MK12 and wanted a bit more horse power. The glass seems very clear and it has an adjustable objective. Does anyone have any experience with this scope? Did I do OK or was the Nikon a better optic. I really won't know until I get the rifle to the range and won't do that until it gets a little warmer.

Thanks all - was able to pick up a used set of Dillon dies, tool head and conversion kit for my 550. I picked up 100 each Hornady 155 gr HPBT and 168 gr AMax bullets, 1# ea IMR 4064 and H322 powder, and 500 WLR primers (limit 500) at my local dealer (the choices were slim). I did find a RCBS precision mic sitting on the shelf; had to pick that puppy up since I don't think I can reload without my .223 version. The only other items I am getting is a Lee Factory crimp die and a universal decapping die. I like to size my cases after I clean them in a separate tool head, trim to length, tumble again to get the lube off, and then run through my 550 process. With the universal decapping die in place of the sizing die, I can keep the loading process as progressive as possible.

I reloaded 1K rounds of 9mm and 1K rounds of 45 ACP. I also went through my brass and realized that I need to hoard more. I've also decided to start reloading 308. I posted about this challenge elsewhere.

Decided to start .308 reloading in the new year (I have been loading 45acp, 9mm, and 5.56/223 on a Dillon 550 for a long time). I have a Gracey Trimmer and will get the parts for the Dillon, as well as dies, and an RCBS Precision Mic. My dilemma is what bullet weight(s) to load up. My main 308 is a DPMS LR308 MK12. I can't decide on 155 or 168. I really don't want to perform too much trial and error since components are hard to find. I'd like to settle on a bullet weight and find a good couple of loads and shoot. I'd rather fart around with powder than bullets. My range limits me to 200 yards although they are working on a 1000 yd range. So for now, I'll shoot between 100 and 200 yds. Also, I've been reading about a small base die. I don't use one now for my 5.56/223 loads. Is a SB die recommended? So there you have it...let me have it!

From what I've read about this stuff, the whole idea is the "nano-ceramic" wonder-stuff fills the voids that copper ordinarily would. The bore coat also also gives the bore a surface that the copper will not adhere to as much. I still haven't fired my rifle so I really don't know for sure...only time will tell.

Ok, I guess I understand their meaning of fouled. When I think of fouled I think of very dirty or filthy. I can now sleep better at night knowing that if I put a dirty barrel away, it'll still hit the broad side of a deer, barn, or tin can. Jeesem...why can't we all just get along <lmao>

Huh, I must not run with those guys...are they in the stinky diaper crowd too? I can't ever remember a rifle shooting more accurately with a fouled bore. Interesting concept...

update on original post...I went ahead and coated the bore of my DPMS 308 Mk12. I followed the directions to the letter. I do not believe I have ever had a cleaner bore in any of my firearms prior to coating. I have not had the chance yet to "fire" the bore. I hope to be able to do that in the next few weeks. If this thing works as promised, I will begin the process on other selected rifles and my 1911 wad gun. I'll keep you all posted.

Thanks all for your sage advice. I haven't had much time to do anything but at least now I know where to start. For the time being the lower sits in my safe along with its completed brethern awaiting a full build out. At least I have a new build ready to start in 2013.

Hello fellow large black rifle brethern- I recently picked up a 308 lower, a LPK, and carbine stock in a trade with my brother. I was pretty psyched until I opened the box and saw that the lower is Armalite and the LPK and carbine stock is DPMS (I have nothing against DPMS since I own a 308 Mk12 but that's another story). I know enough to think holy poop these parts won't all work - I tried fitting the take down pins and they are too large for the AR10. Thus, my post. What is the consensus about just getting a LPK from Armalite and holding onto the DPMS one for a rainy day? Also, should I go with a standard single stage or spend the extra and go with a tactical 2 stage as Armalite calls it (I don't think I'm going down the Geissele road here). Also, what is the deal with mags? I know that some AR10 used proprietary mags while some others will take the P-Mags and the like. How do I find out what fits in mine? Any help would be appreciated. I'm not in any hurry but I do want to know what is what so that I can pick up parts as I can afford them. Thanks in advance for your advise and opinion...

Anyone have any experience with this stuff. I came across an article on it today and it seems interesting. It has a strong appeal to me since the manufacturer claims reduced cleaning. Only a patch with hoppes #9 no brushing or copper solvent.