Savageman25

BTW, someone should let him know that one he left cooking for over 30 seconds shouldn't be used. LOL

That's slicker than whale sperm. Makes my home built annealer look like a first grader built it. Still I like mine and it gets the job done for the price. I would be interested in how much that one cost him to build. The workmanship on his is superb, but he also has some very nice tools in order to make that annealer. Where mine costs about 140 to make I bet his is well near the 300, and at that point your at buying a very nice manufactured one. Of course there is the pride of making something like that, which is worth a lot to some people.

Haha, no, but if you wanna make one just search diy annealer in Google. I'm sure you'll find out exactly how I made mine.

All sold

Price drop 100

Number 2 spf.

Hey guys I just bought two savage package rifles with the Nikon scopes on them. I'm a milradian FFP guy so these are not my cup of tea. These are the older style Pro Staffs (Pro Staff isn't written on them though). Both have the rings that will stay on them. Glass is acceptional for the price point. There won't be a box with them but all paperwork and warranty info will be. I'll have these on multiple forums, first come first serve. They are new, as I took them immediately off the guns. 1. Nikon 3-9x40 BDC Reticle-on the left in picture-asking $120 obo 2. Nikon 3-9x40 BDC Active Target Reticle-on right in picture-asking $175 obo

Not trying to be a jerk so don't take it that way, but why shoot cheap ammo in a precision rig. Shoot good ammo in the first place and completely eliminate the possibility of ammo even being an issue. Precision and cheap are opposites, and don't belong together. That being said I'd highly doubt even cheap ammo will change its poi that much. Ill second the others that have stated recheck everything especially the scope and mount using the proper tools (proper torque) for everything. After doing that try again and see how it goes and if you don't get the results you like find the best (most experienced shooter) you know to put a couple on a target for you and see what happens and I'm sure you will eventually get it worked out.

Correct. You put 750 degree tempalaq (it's a paste that melts at a certain degree) on a few cases inside the neck and when it melts you know it's at that temp. You just figure around how many seconds it takes and then set the drum to the correct speed so it holds the case that long before dropping it.

If you guys want to make one there is a big long thread over on a very common ar forum (not sure if I'm allowed to post the link). Just search DIY Annealer and it should come up. It's like 18 pages long and it tells you guys exactly how to make it.

The vid https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=aN2EoFuL8uw

Not sure of the vid working so here's some pics.

Just finished assembling my Annealer. It beats paying for a manufactured one. I'm going to touch up a few things and paint it and I'm sure it will look tons better but the important thing is that it functions. IMG_0036.MOV

Hey fellas, I'm building a 6.5 Grendel right now and I'm not one to turn my nose up to good quality used parts. If you have any of the following items that you would like to sell then send me a pm and we can talk about price. All things of course are of the AR15 model which I'm sure you all know but want to make sure no things are left unstated. Still Needed: JP low mass carrier JP silent captured recoil spring slr rifle works sentry 7 adjustable gas block (set screw) black hole weaponry (or other good quality) 18" Grendel barrel with bolt

All is well that ends well.

My top two choices would be. http://jprifles.com/1.2.2_JP15.php http://www.precisionfirearms.com/48m8/pf-223-wylde-match-rifles.html I know people want what they want and they usually have their reasons but if I were you I would try until I'm blue in the face to get him to change his cartridge choice to 6.5 Grendel. It just does everything so much better than that 223.

Has anyone tried one of these? I have a Grendel that I'm building that I already have the VRS t rail for. I read on a couple forums a couple guys thought they were causing accuracy issues but no one actually confirmed it. One guy put the brake on at the same time as a new scope and then failed to follow up on the thread whether it was the brake or optic that was causing issues. I hate when people don't follow up on an issue. I like the look of the T brake but if it jacks with accuracy then I'll just go for the SJC Titan comp that I was originally planning until I get a suppressorð

Went out and shot it again today, and it ran flawlessly. So it seems the block had to be forward to much and was choking the gas down as a little bit of carbon suffocated what little was making it through. I guess I'll be more careful as to finding out if gas blocks are manufactured to be pushed to the shoulder in the future.

I haven't tried a standard buffer on it. If for some reason it is still acting weird next time I go out, then that will be my next move. it might be one card, I just read it was two card. Either way This block needs to be on the shoulder because it was way to far forward. I went and looked at the directions for the gas block and it said nothing about it at all so I guess they just figure most people butt them up to the shoulder. I'm wondering even if it's at the shoulder if it is actually perfectly lined up to the port on the barrel cause it looked way far foward when I took it off. You could tell by the carbon build up on it that it was barely getting gas through it.

So I think I found the issue. I read on the forum to set your gas block forward of the shoulder about 2 business card thickness. I did that which looks like it pushed the gas block opening way far forward compared to the gas port on the barrel which in turn gave me very very little of an opening for gas to enter the block. I'm unsure if this is because the barrel is made to that spec or slr rifleworks already factored that into the block. Either way I wanted to post my findings in case someone runs into a similar issue. I'll get back with you guys after I shoot again to verify if that was in fact was causing the issue, but ima betting it was.

I don't know if it's worth mentioning but I'm using frog lube and the stuff seems to get a little to sticky for my tastes.I'm not sure if that has anything to do with it but I just thought I'd throw that out there as another thing in the equation.

Got a nagging issue. The first time I went shooting I needed to continue to adjust my gas block out to get it to lock back. I tuned it, thought it was good and would go through about 10 shots and it wouldn't lock back. So I opened it more, tested it with one round at a time and got it to lock back. Then shot another full mag, same thing happened. You see the process I was doing until nearly out of adjustment. And that's when I stopped shooting that day due to time. So, This is what I did last time out. I started over and tuned it just like it was not fired before. Get it to lock back. Shoot it about 4 to five times (single round in mag at a time to test if it's good because it's been acting weird) and then it fails to lock back. I then open gas block full turn more, repeat 4 to five shots, then fails to lock back again. I've done this until the gas block is nearly all the way open. You guys think carbon is getting built up? I usually can figure stuff like this out but it's kinda got me puzzled. I haven't taken the block off to look at it yet. Was wondering what you guys would say first. For quick reference: This is an slr adjustable gas block on a jp enterprises 6.5 creedmoor 22" barrel with a jp silent captured recoil spring and jp lmos.

I wish I could. This comes at a horrible time or else I would. Self control is going to get the better of me on this one I think, even though I'm hating it. Only thing I wanted to clear up is that your post said you have to know by tomorrow but tomorrow isn't 9-28-15. Is it actually tomorrow or is it 9-28?

Oh man, do I want to get in a fight with my wife or do I not? That is the question.