CASEYPM

Timing and tube length are correct. If anything, I always thought the gun was over gassed by the amount of recoil and how far it eqects shells compared to other AR308s. Definitely changing buffer and spring.

Thank you, I will probably end up purchasing one.

Measured it twice and got that both times. As for the gas tube, I'm using an armalite AR-10 carbine length tube which is about 3/8 longer than an AR-15 mid length tube. (Sounds backwards, but that's AR-10 specs for them) I had short cycling in the beginning with the PSA tube until I found the right length of gas tube. No offense taken. I decided on PSA years ago because of the price and made it a franken gun from multiple suppliers

AR-15discounts.com It is 5-7/16 long and weighs 5.3 oz.

I just took my PSA PA-10 1st gen out today with a new UTG A2 stock and 9/10 it would eject, but 10/10 would not feed. It has a full size buffer that is 5.4 oz and the spring is much stiffer than the stock spring. I may be an idiot for trying this, but I used the new buffer with the old carbine spring and it double fed every time and the pin would punch the primer. I thought of two solutions for this and want to see what y'all think. 1. Cut a wooden dowel the same diameter of the inside of the receiver extension tube to make the inside length the same length as the carbine, and use the original buffer and spring. 2. Start cutting off coils of the new spring using new buffer until it cycles right. 3. Buy a new spring that y'all think would be right for it. Any new insight would be much appreciated.

This gun was a PITA to get everything fitting right, but I'm actually glad I built it instead of bought it completed. I'm still having issues upgrading it trying to find a 9.4" handguard... I know it inside an out. Did I mention that I'm putting 0.85" patterns on paper @100 yds with a sub $1000 AR???

It runs perfectly! From what I've read about the bolts PSA offered on their website, I lucked out by not getting one of theirs. At first, the ejector spring would carve out a semi-circle shaving off the brass, but it corrected itself after about 300-500 rounds. I don't have access to a "go or no go" headspacing tool and this may be attributed to a headspacing issue with the Anderson barrel. It did take a while to break in and seat the rings, but now it'll go into battery with a small push from my pinky finger with the lower removed. The fit is perfect. After it's been broke in, the bolt carrier glides back and forth with no typical scraping sound from an AR with the upper removed cycling the BCG. You may have read in other threads of mine that I had short cycling issues and that was due to the Anderson barrel having the Armalite "AR-10 carbine length" gas port and was corrected after purchasing a Armalite gas tube which was like 0.5" longer than a mid-length gas tube from an AR-15. Hope this helps you! Good luck!

That's what makes this difficult... I have Armalite gas port length with DPMS LR308 threads on the upper. Part of me wants to keep it the way it is since it is an PITA, but also it weighs 11.4 lbs when I have it set up for hunting. Looking to shed about 1 lb. That cheapo optic that weighs 18oz isn't helping either....

It's 9-7/16" to be exact... Everything I've looked for in 9.4" is either really expensive or discontinued. I guess I'm going to get a 12" and an adjustable low pro gas block.

I'm looking to put a new handguard on my PA-10 and finding it quite difficult to find one that will match up to the gas block. The Anderson barrel that is on it has a gas port that is a bit longer than AR-15 mid-length (forgot the exact length, it's in another thread on here) So it's basically the Armalite "AR-10 carbine length". The distance from the upper receiver to the gas block is 9.5" and would like to keep my gas block rather than get a low profile block and longer handguard. The one shown in the picture is a cheapo eBay 10" handguard that has been cut. Do any of you know of a decent handguard that is 9.5"? I have a feeling that I'm going to have to go longer or cut it to length. Thanks in advance. -Casey

That very well may have happened. Since I put on the Jerry Miculek muzzle brake, there isn't much kick. I've probably put 150-200 down range with that scope on. The other day I had a dummy in the chamber and was practicing dry firing to get more familiar with the breaking point of the trigger and noticed something about the scope. (bear with me here, my terminology on glass isn't that good) As you know, the eye relief of the CP sucks. If your eye moves 1/16" left or right at 16X magnification, all you see is black. I didn't recall it being this bad. I took off the front sight and the eye relief was much better. With the rifle in a bench rest, I looked in it down range and moved my head slightly side to side and noticed that the reticle moves off target with my movement and gun being stationary. Diagnosis: cheap scope and front sight obstructing the view causing me to shift my eye side to side. The only reason I have the front sight on there is to mount my 3 point sling. It'll be leaving and probably getting a 45° buis. It'll probably be a while until I can get a better scope. Just shelled out lots of $$ on a hunting lease.

The scope is a center point 4-16X40. It was stored in an ammunition box with dehumidifier inside gun vault. I use outers brand rifle cleaning kit. Soaked brass brush, patches with nitro solvent until clean. Then I use a barrel mop until dry. I've always been skeptical about putting oil inside the barrel since its stored in air tight vault with dehumidifier. Just for good measure, I cleaned it the other day and the patches weren't that dirty. I use frog lube on my rifle. A friend gave me a tube of it and seems to work great. And I love that wintergreen smell it has. I'm really starting to think this was just user error and the fact that I haven't put any rounds downrange in a few months. The mil spec trigger isn't my friend at all. I think I'm just not used to its breaking point. We shall see next weekend.

I'm not gonna lie, it was a budget build and didn't have the $$ for a quality scope or cantilever mount. I may have paid for my stingyness twice. The trigger is a 6.5 lb ALG QMS. I remember a friend that's a marine telling me "pull the trigger so slowly that it surprises you when it goes bang". Which is necessary for a mil spec trigger. Pretty sure I failed to take that into account. I'd love to get a 2 stage 3 lb trigger sometime.

Truth be told, it took probably 5-7 shots aiming 2-3' high with the .40 to make it on target. I will do that. I'll borrow a scope next time I go out. Another thing I didn't think of until now is that the upper receiver doesn't make a tight fit. It's a bit wobbbly. I've been meaning to get that polyurethane bushing that goes behing the take down pin. I can't remember what it's called.

I was using perfecta .308. Cheap Italian fmj. Never had a problem with it before. The last shots I took (in picture) was Remington deer season 150 gr .308. Bottom right hole was .40 from my pistol. I was pretty stoked at hitting a 6X10 target at 100 yds with a pistol.