Frankh252

In my opinion DPMS was under thinking things and they still are. The Oracle I bought in Dec '15 has the same problem. Putting a 1/2" picatinny riser on it won't work either because then it is too high.

Many thanks unforgiven. Those are good looking rails no doubt and less than I paid for the Fortis lesson too. 82Halo, my gas tube is very visible under the rail and I can't even see yours. Gas block not on when the pic was taken? If it is considered rude to speak to more than one person in a comment, please advise and I will rectify...

I would like to shortcut my novice searching and ask for help from the experienced folks here...what I would like to put on it is a keymod rail that has no gap between the handguard and receiver, and is approximately 12"-13" in length. Anyone know of any selections like that?

Since I do not have a caliper yet...measured with a combination square, the tang is 1/8" or very close to 0.125" in decimal form. It's a low profile

I should have got a caliper to measure the tang above the charging handle before ordering the handguard....yep. And no, I don't sweat the small stuff. Screwing up is how I learn best lol

I've done a lot of homework before putting a live round or tool to this Oracle but I didn't do enough. Lucky for me, I have intended for this project to be a hands-on training platform from before I even ordered the gun and it has certainly been that. I also have no doubt that I still have much to learn. Classic mistake this time, making an assumption: I thought this gun was a high-profile model but the picatinny rail is slightly higher than the receiver rail, so it must be a low profile model. And it does have a bit more of a gap than I expected but that still wouldn't be a real problem although I would prefer a closer fit. I can make use of it as is for now and maybe save the Fortis for a future build when I get a replacement for this one. Anyway, onward the steps go and I'm lovin' every minute of it! When I have better light tomorrow I'll get a a pic or two to post so everyone can chuckle at another rookie screwup!

Started to do the rail install after work today but ran into a snag that's my own fault. The barrel nut wrench section of the multi-tool I bought is apparently only for an AR15 not the AR308 (it was advertised as being a combo AR15/AR308 tool). The inner opening on the wrench is not large enough to fit around the larger diameter section of the barrel to reach the nut. A friend has one I know will work, so I'll take another stab at it this weekend. About the gap/no-gap issue...here's a video of a Fortis Switch install with (what I consider) an insignificant gap. If this is what is considered a gap, it isn't enough of a gap to be an issue for me. A bigger issue for me is that guy in the video doesn't appear to torque the barrel nut with a torque wrench (unless they cut that scene). I'll use the torque wrench rather than doing it the way the video shows it being done.

survivalshop, could be it doesn't meet. Will know when installed 'eh? Just going by some of the reviews I read, so it's internet info about that so far...

Bubbas4570, I forgot to add that the APF Armory site does have the lower receiver parts kit in stock so will order ASAP and I appreciate the help.

Thanks Wash, I thought that would be the case about the headspace but I wanted to get the advice of the pros here before proceeding with barrel nut removal. Unfortunately, our local gunsmith has gone out of business so there aren't many options there. And yes, the threadlocker is for the gas-block set-screws, the anti-seize is for the barrel nut and the 44-50 ft/lbs is from the handguard installation instructions. It's a Fortis Switch 12", not that I want to switch it I just like the F logo and there's no gap where the rails meet. Will post a pic when assembled. Frank :)

I have a new AR 308 that has about 200 rounds through it with no problems but I want to install a new keymod rail and lose the cheap plastic handguard. My question is whether it is necessary to check the headspace since I am using the original bolt and barrel. This is my first AR so I am learning. Recommended barrel nut torque is 44-50 ft/lbs but I don't know if the headspace changes with within the torque range... Just to pre-answer some questions that may come up: I have all the proper tools such as a bench vise, a breakover bar to remove the barrel nut and a new torque-wrench to reinstall the nut, a new Wheeler upper receiver vise block, gunsmith punch set, 2000 degree threadlocker, 1600 degree anti-seize, etc stuff like that. Weapon is a DPMS Oracle LR308 (yeah I know it's no masterpiece but it's only meant to be a cheap trainer before moving up). BTW, per DPMS the correct headgauges to use are the 7.62x51 NATO not the .308Win. I asked them about it is because the receiver is stamped .308Win but the barrel is stamped 7.62x51

Midway has moved pretty much all of their DPMS 308 parts to no backorder available status. According to them they are not receiving replacement parts from the mfgr. All they have available is a buffer & spring. Same as I am seeing at other places such as Brownell's etc.

Many thanks bubbas4570 DPMS seems to be in the market of selling guns that they don't make parts for. I have contacted them to try to get parts but that has proven about as useful as their website 'store'

Thanks, unforgiven. I got the improved G2 ejector in case the original breaks. I'll keep keeping my eye open for other parts if they become available and backorder when possible.

Looking for compatible replacement parts for my new DPMS Oracle .308 AR. All DPMS receiver kits I find are "Out of Stock" so wondering what other brands (if any) would work well. Specifically looking for the small parts such as the springs, pins, etc that are found in upper & lower receiver parts kits, not things like stocks or barrels. Just want to have replacements on hand in case something breaks or gets lost.